The GloLight Thinline LED Trailer Tail Light # STL179RB and the Pacer Performance 3rd Brake Light Logic Module # PP20-702 is all that is needed because you have LED brake lights. The load resistors are not needed for your application. They are only necessary when going from incandescent lights to LED because LED lights require so much less power that there still needs to be that power draw for the system.
You may simply need to remove the resistors to have the third brake light function... view full answer...
Since everything worked when you hooked up your trailer to another vehicle we know the issue is with your 2000 Ford Excursion. The most likely issue is that you have a blown or missing fuse so check Fuse Location 13 in the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel and replace as needed. I do recommend checking your owner's manual to confirm this is the location.
You will also want to check your Excursion's plug for corrosion, which can be green or white in color. A build-up of corrosion can interfere... view full answer...
If your tail light is remaining on then there is likely a short somewhere in the wiring that is causing power on that circuit to remain on. You need to check all of the wiring from your connector to try and find any that are crimped or damaged. Also be sure to take a look at your connectors to see if they are corroded or dirty as that can also be the issue. I have attached a link to a help article on troubleshooting wiring for you to take a look at as well. view full answer...
The issue you are facing is the hyperflashing and lower capacity issue with LED lights. If you have the factory tow package then you just need the Trailer Connector Adapter w/ Lamp-Out Sensor Bypass - 7-Way RV to 7-Way RV - Vehicle End # 20142 along with the 4 way adapter you are already utilizing.
If you only have the 4-way connection, then you will add the LED Light Bulb Load-Resistor Kit # DI34ZR to each wire function you desire to use. This will give you a resistance similar to... view full answer...
I suppose anything is possible on a new install, but it's more likely that you're just experiencing some common noises that occur when towing a 5th wheel- called "chucking".
Sometimes when towing a 5th wheel there's a little bit of play between the kingpin of the trailer and the jaws of the hitch; the B&W Companion # BWRVK3400-5W usually does a really nice job of limiting the play because of the thicker jaws fitting the kingpin better than some other hitches but it's normal and tough to... view full answer...
I am sorry to hear you are having an issue with the Curt TriFlex trailer brake controller # C24VV in your 2017 Ford Transit T-250.
I recommend using a circuit tester # PTW2993 to test the wires on the controller. The most common cause for this issue is when the red brake signal wire is connected to constant power and not the cold side of the stop light switch that only has power when the brake pedal is pressed.
If the red wire on the controller is connected correctly to the cold side... view full answer...
Since your 2016 Ford F-150 XLT has the factory trailer brake controller port underneath the dash for plug-in wiring harness # 22292, you do not need to run a 30-amp inline fuse for the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 # 90885 to work correctly. That is only for vehicles that do not have a factory trailer brake controller port.
I recommend testing the black wire on the back of the controller using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. This is the power wire for the trailer brake controller. If you are not... view full answer...
The issue you are having with your running lights and brake/turn signals is going to be caused by a poor ground. The poor ground could be either on the vehicle side or trailer side. I recommend that you first re-ground the vehicle side trailer connector. If this does not fix your issue then re-ground the trailer side trailer connector. If this still does not fix your issue then run a ground wire from each light up to the main trailer ground. This issue comes up often and it is almost always... view full answer...
Probe the wire before and after the breaker with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to see if there is power on one side of it but not on the other. That's the easiest way to test it. view full answer...
If the lights are functioning properly when the vehicle is on you're totally fine to either ignore the problem (if you can) or unplug the trailer wiring when not in use to prevent it from happening. Unfortunately it only takes a fraction of an amp to light up an LED so the small bleed through on your circuits is going to light them up here and there. i would still try load resistors like the Diamond # DI34ZR view full answer...
I am sorry to hear about the issues you are having with your wiring harness. The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector part # C56351 is correct for a 2013 Ford Fusion SE. If the right stop/turn signal pin on the 4-way has constant power without either signal active then there is an issue with the converter box and the unit will need to be replaced. For replacement, I recommend the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness part # 118574. The reason for this is that... view full answer...
Since you are not getting the 12V power when your truck is running, you most likely don't have a fuse issue as you stated their isn't a specified fuse or relay in the owners manual. The issue is that your truck is computerized even at the 7-way. It can sense when a trailer is connected based on the voltage draw so it won't sent a signal for 12V when using some testers, especially LED testers because there isn't enough of a power draw.
The system requires a power draw on the 7-way and... view full answer...
The 2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon doesn't have a useable brake light switch wire so the coachlink monitor in your Demco Stay-IN-Play DUO # DM86VR is most likely sending this error since it isn't getting the brake signal. You'll need to install the Roadmaster Stop Light Switch Kit # RM-751490 and connect it to the red wire of the transmitter so that it can properly communicate with the coachlink monitor. view full answer...
From the part number and the photos you provided, I am assuming you mean the Titan Snow Chains # TC2228CAM for your 265/60-18 tires on your 2017 Ford F-150. You are correct in determining that these chains will fit your tires.
As far as troubleshooting the fitment issue, the first thing you need to check is to make sure there is no overlap of any of the links (they should all be completely spread out without bunching). The next thing is tightening; from the photos, it looks like the issue... view full answer...
The Everchill RV Refrigerator w/ Freezer - 10.7 Cu Ft - 12V - Stainless Steel # 324-000119 will make a beeping noise if there's an issue with the compressor. I would first try cutting the power to it for 10-15 mins to let it fully reset and then seeing if the noise persists. If so, I would have a licensed technician take a look at your compressor for any leaks. view full answer...
The battery in a standard breakaway kit like the Hopkins Engager Push-To-Test Trailer Breakaway Kit # 20099 is designed to lock up the trailer brakes for 15 minutes once the pin is pulled. The only way that the battery would still be able to power your trailer brakes when you disconnect it is if you disconnected it from the end that it receives power and not from the end that would be sending the power to your brakes.
It is definitely possible for the battery to get messed up but if you... view full answer...
Most likely the pin lost contact for the running light circuit of the # C56048. Disconnecting the connectors on the driver side and reconnecting them to see if that clears out the problem. Otherwise test the brown wire on the input side of the box for voltage with a tester like part # PTW2993 with the running lights on and then test the brown wire on the output side.
If there's voltage on input side but not output the box has an internal issue. If no, the issue is the connection to the vehicle. view full answer...
If you do not already have one, it would be a good idea to get a 4-pole tester such as the Curt LED 4-Way Flat Connector (Vehicle End) Tester # I26. Using this tester, you can verify if the vehicle wiring is working properly.
If the 4-pole tester verifies that you are having issues at the vehicle end, not trailer end, then make sure all of the connections are good on the vehicle's trailer wiring kit using a circuit tester like the Circuit Tester Kit # PTW2993.
Verify the ground wire... view full answer...
Most of the time this issue is a bad relay which you've already tried. Since we know the relay is good and the compressor works when power is ran to it the next issue is most likely wiring. Sounds like either the compressor isn't getting a sufficient power or ground source when ran through all of the wiring and relays so you'll need to go over all of the wiring making sure all of the connections are solid. view full answer...
The issue you are having with the Titan BrakeRite EHB Electric-Hydraulic Actuator part # T4813100 or part # T4813102 is attributed to the lack of power on the 12 volt wire for the 7-way trailer connector. This is what powers the unit so if you don't have 12 volts here then the unit will not function properly.
The 2017 Ford F-350 may only send power to the 12 volt power wire on the 7-way trailer connector when the vehicle is in drive therefore it would be best to bypass the 12 volt power... view full answer...
Go To Results