If you are only having problems with one light, you can check to see if you have a ground problem on your trailer that is hooked up to your 2013 Ford Explorer. You want to make sure that the ground wire (usually white) on the trailer connector is securely attached to the trailer frame. If you have a folding trailer tongue, attach the ground connection to the trailer frame, behind the tongue hinge. Check the ground area for any corrosion or paint, or dirt build up. If any is present, clean... view full answer...
You can test the wiring that leads to your existing factory 7-way using a tester like # PTW2993 to see if the connector itself is the problem, or if the signals are not making it through the Explorer's wiring. Have a helper activate the various lighting functions while you apply the grounded tester to the pins in the round U.S. Car connector.
If you do not detect the correct signals, then you may have to replace or install other fuses to activate the wiring. Check the owner's manual or... view full answer...
Have you grounded the white wire to the tongue of the trailer? Check that connection, if it is loose or the point where the ground is connected is corroded, you will not have a sufficient ground connection which can cause the problems you are describing. The white wire from the trailer connector should be grounded to the trailer, and the light fixtures themselves are grounded by their physical connection to the trailer frame. view full answer...
Though we will not have factory wiring diagrams, I am pretty sure I know what is going on and this should be a quick and easy fix. In the passenger compartment fuse box of your 2001 Ford Explorer, there should be a 15A in position 30. This port will handle the park lamp / trailer tow relay and should be all you need to get everything up and running properly.
However, in the off chance this does not get you power to the running lamps, let me know and we can try a few other things. view full answer...
Your trailer's disc brakes will certainly warm up with use but the type of dragging and heat you're describing is definitely not normal. When this type of problem occurs it's typically the result of a bad brake caliper on one or more of the assemblies.
I recommend removing the caliper and rotor and taking the pads out from the caliper for inspection. If you find they are in need of replacement I will be happy to make a specific recommendation if you can tell me the brand and weight capacity... view full answer...
I took a look at the owner's manual and there are no other relays or fuses that would cause the issue you are having; I would start just by verifying that the fuse in location 7 is correctly rated at 15 amps. Also make sure you test the right turn/brake wire going in to your connector; if there is no signal that means the issue is with the vehicle wiring and it is likely going to be a crimped, broken or otherwise damaged wire that you will need to locate and fix accordingly. view full answer...
If the 12V and TM lamps are illuminating on the Curt 4-Way to 7-Way Adapter # C57674 this indicates that the 12V circuit and trailer running lights circuits are active/powered on the vehicle. The 12V circuit is likely active at all times, while the running lights should only be powered when you have those lights activated on the vehicle.
You didn't specify which trailer lights weren't working when hooked up, but based on the test lamps I assume it's the left and right hand turn/brake signals.... view full answer...
We personally have not heard of this, but I spoke to my contact at Curt and he had a couple ideas for what could have been going on. First he thought that maybe you are lining up your hitch to the wrong holes, and this would explain why the second set of installation holes do not line up.
Second he thought that maybe you have a very early model 2006 Ford Explorer and you would actually need the Curt hitch part # C13550 and not the # 13112 that you have.
The easiest way for you to tell... view full answer...
If you aren't showing output while the vehicle is in motion, that WOULD indicate a problem. Typically, the controller gets the brake signal from the 3rd brake lamp, sometimes also referred to as the CHMSL circuit. If the brake switch is bad or the 3rd brake lamp isn't operating, then there is a problem somewhere in the 3rd brake lamp circuit. You can test this using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. Probe the red wire exiting the rear of the controller. You should show voltage on that wire... view full answer...
The P2 # 90885 has not been around for 15 years. You might have the original Prodigy # 90185. The sure way to know is the display. If the display is blue, its a P2. If the display is red, it is a Prodigy.
There are a lot of moving parts in electric drum brakes. They could get stuck if the return springs are bound up or corroded or if something needs some lubrication.
Nine times out of ten, it is a brake issue. But it could be electrical further back than the brake controller. The first... view full answer...
You can check your engine compartment fuse box to see if any fuse/relay locations labeled trailer or towing are blown or just missing and install as needed with the value specified. According to my research there are left and right trailer tow relays required; these are installed near the center of the box.
The Curt 4-pole wiring harness # C56172 is a confirmed fit for your 2013 Ford Explorer and its installation is shown in the linked video. You need to ensure you have fully seated the... view full answer...
We are going to begin a process of elimination to solve this problem, starting by checking the 7-way functions. Start by using a circuit tester such as # PTW2992, to test the individual outputs from vehicle's 7-way just to make sure they are all working as intended. If that proves to be an issue, we know the problem is on the Explorer's side, if not, we can narrow it down to the issue being on the trailer.
You mentioned that you checked the ground on the Curt # C56278 harness, but be sure... view full answer...
If there is no noise from the contact between the exhaust hanger and the hitch then you don't have to do anything. If there is noise or you just want some more space then there are some things you can do to create more space.
I have included a link to a help article that covers the different methods you could employ. If all else fails then a muffler shop would be able to take care of the issue pretty easily since they have the tools and the know-how to work on exhaust systems.
I doubt... view full answer...
Since you have indicated that the right turn and stop light circuits work on the vehicle the next step is to test the connector on the vehicle side using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If the circuit is working there as well, then the problem is on the trailer. If it is not, then the problem is on the vehicle.
If it is not working on vehicle connector and the connector is factory, then you may have some relays or fuses blown or missing that need to be replaced. Check your owner's manual... view full answer...
The factory harness on your 2017 Ford Explorer simply terminates into a end cap as the additional harness is not needed on every model. You will remove the harness from the end terminal to be able to install the Tekonsha T-One Wiring Harness # 118540. Likely the connector has some moisture and dirt that has gotten into the connector causing it to stick and not want to remove from the harness. You will want to ensure the catch is disengaging from the connectors and slowly wiggle the connectors... view full answer...
Thank you for the photo of your 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer's trailer wiring harness cap.
Between the age of the plastic material and the exposure to road grime (that might be trapped in the gaps, making cap removal as difficult as possible) I am not too surprised you're finding it tough to get the cap off. Add the fact that there appears to be no way to get a hand around it AND at the same time press the cap release (red arrow) and I can feel your pain.
Here is my thinking. There probably... view full answer...
I wasn't able to find your order number so I'm not sure what harness you purchased from us specifically for your 2015 Ford Explorer, but if it was the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540, and you didn't have the two connectors, you would only need to plug it in to the connector shown in the accompanying photo I added. This is from the linked video install of this harness on a 2015 Explorer. If you did this and the connectors matched up but you still don't have power there are a number... view full answer...
The Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Tow Bar Braking System # RM-8700 is designed to deliver a trickle charge from your running motorhome's electrical system to your toad's battery while you're underway. This power feed is dependent on good ground connections between both the motorhome and InvisiBrake, and between the InvisiBrake and the toad. You can check to make sure all electrical connections are sound and that there is no corrosion on connectors that might be impeding the charging... view full answer...
There is not a relay for the trailer parking lights according to your owners manual.. Relay 3 is for the park lights of your vehicle (but not trailer park lights) and fuse #25 is a parking light and trailer brake fuse with 15A that is located under your dash to the left of the steering wheel. If that fuse is good, then you have a short somewhere before your trailer connector. I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the wire as you trace it for power to find the short. view full answer...
Your most likely culprit would be the ground connection on the horse trailer. Make sure that the grounding point on the trailer is securely fastened, and is free of corrosion.
When this trailer is being used on the Suburban, it is probably getting a ground connection through the trailer ball. The boat trailer will work fine with the Explorer because it most likely uses a continuous ground circuit instead of using the trailer frame as a portion of the ground circuit.
Trying different... view full answer...
Go To Results