Just to be sure, the Hopkins harness that you should be using for the 2006 Ford E-series van is # HM47715. Make sure that the factory fuse for the brake controller is installed. Use the van owner's manual to find the fuse and relay locations for the tow package wiring.
I checked the owners manual online and it looks like there are 2 brake controller fuses. Inside the in-cab panel there is one in location 39. Under the hood there is one in location 10.
If you have it all hooked up right... view full answer...
There could be many possibilities that are causing the pulsating of your brakes on your 2008 Ford E350. A few possibilities to start with would be to use a circuit tester like the Quickee Tester, part # PTW2993, and check the connection of your stoplight wire from the brake controller to your stoplight switch. This wire needs to be connected to the cold side of the stoplight switch, which will only show power when the brake pedal is applied.
You will also want to check all the connections... view full answer...
You went the right way when you checked the ground wire first. You will need to make sure all of your ground connections are good. The ground connection at the vehicle is especially important because it must travel through the connector to the trailer frame. The connector on the trailer should be secured to a clean surface on the trailer frame and each taillight assembly must be grounded either through the mounting bolts or a separate wire from the taillight to the trailer frame. When... view full answer...
A brake controller such as the Voyager # 39510 sends back the same voltage to all of the trailer brakes equally so there really isn't a way that it could be the problem. It is strange that it is the rear brake and not the front brake since the front brake would get the power first.
It could be an issue with the trailer connector on the 2012 Ford van. If there is corrosion on the pins or inside of the trailer connector that could be producing a short.
To test the brake controller you... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a short in your trailer wiring. Since the white ground wire is getting power when you turn on your lights it is likely getting power from the brown running lights wire. If this is something on a factory harness you will want to trace the wiring and look for any damage to either wire. If you are using an aftermarket wiring like the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness # HM11140495 it could be the module has failed if you are unable to find any damaged wiring.... view full answer...
It sounds like your brand new tow dolly has electric drum brakes that are in need of adjusting. Most likely they are self-adjusting assemblies that after several applications will adjust to the proper setting. This is a common occurrence on new trailers/dollies.
But in the event they are manual adjust assemblies you would want to adjust them to where there is just a slight drag on the drum when they are turned by hand.
Check out the video (see link). Beginning at the 4:23 mark, our installer... view full answer...
When these lights are charged you should be able to turn them on in your dark closet. It appears that you have done everything right. You charged the lights in the sun for eight hours, so their battery should be charged. If I am troubleshooting, my only thought is whether or not the solar panel got eight full hours of sunlight. What I mean is, was it sunny the entire time your ATAK Solar Motion Light - Weatherproof - 460 Lumens, part # PT701, was getting charged? If that is the case, returning... view full answer...
It sounds like there is back feeding to the van from the trailer when you step on the brake pedal and that is what is causing the fuse to blow. There may be a higher rated fuse on the other vehicle which could be why it is not blowing. It is also possible that there is corrosion in the van side trailer connector that you will have to clear out.
You will want to make sure that the trailer connector on the van and on the trailer are pinned out to match each other. I have provided a link... view full answer...
Thank you for providing details about your troubleshooting efforts with your electric jack.
The first thing to make certain of is that the battery installed on the trailer to power the jack is rated appropriately for the jack's current requirements. Some jacks require more current than others. For instance, the Stromberg Carlson Electric Trailer Jack # JET-5000 will need 30-amps of current to lift its 5000-lb rated maximum while others will require only 25 amps.
Next it is recommended... view full answer...
Poor or intermittent brake performance can be a result of a few different issues. Poor ground connections, corrosion build up and shorts are the most common culprits. If you are certain that all of your grounds are good, then I would look at the trailer connectors for white or green corrosion build up and clean or replace as necessary.
I would also look at the electric brake power wire for any pinched, frayed, or damaged sections that could be causing a short. We had a similar issue after... view full answer...
Unfortunately the Curt Triflex # C24VV does not have the best reputation for being reliable. What you described sounds like it has an internal problem and would need to be replaced. If you wanted something that performed better and is much more reliable I would go with the P3 part # 90195 instead and you'll be much happier. No more constant resetting and overall better braking. view full answer...
The problem you are describing is most likely related to the wiring of the brake controller. The P.L. error messages stands for power interruption when the brake is pressed.
This can occur for a number of reasons. First check the brake controller wiring and all of its connections to the vehicle. A bad splice or corrosion could cause this error. Then check the wiring going back to the trailer connector for any corrosion or breaks in the wiring and check the trailer connectors on the pin... view full answer...
The Tekonsha Plug-In Wiring Adapter for Electric Brake Controllers - Ford # 3034-P is the correct fit for factory 7-way systems. It is odd to have the harness connection and not have it connected to the power, but that is what Ford did on their factory 4-flat models. They required the brake output wire and a 12V hot lead wire be run from the battery. I recommend testing the red brake wire for signal and then checking to see if the blue brake output wire is run to the 7-way or not. If... view full answer...
A Rep with Camco stated that the switch light of the Camco Propane to Electricity Converter, # CAM11673 most likely does not have a good ground, occasionally the ground and neutral are wired together and this also cause same issue. However, they think the most likely cause is a grounding issue. Please check all connections for tight fitment. view full answer...
You will need the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Trailer Connector, item # 118343, to wire your E-150 Van for trailer lighting. Your van has separate turn and brake lights so a converter is required. The T-One harness will plug in-line with your tail lights and then be ran down to the hitch. I have provided a link to installation instructions for you to review. view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Lippert and they informed me that if the Replacement New-Style Linc Analog Remote part # LC292614 drains the 2 AAA batteries in only a few days then there is an internal short and it will need to be replaced. This remote only transmits a signal, it does not receive one therefore there really couldn't be anything else that would cause this issue. Please note there is a power button atop the remote that should be used each time you are finished using it. view full answer...
I have attached a helpful article that explains how to troubleshoot a brake controller.
If you have to use the manual switch on the brake controller, you could have a bad stoplight connection or the adapter wiring does not match the vehicle OEM connector on your 1999 Ford E-350. If the brakes are too aggressive, the brake assemblies may need to be adjusted or the boost and or gain is set too high on the controller. You want to make sure the brake controller is level and not tilted or... view full answer...
Your main problem is an insufficient ground for the trailer wiring. Try improving the connection of the main ground wire of the trailer wiring harness. Make sure it is attached to a clean metal surface. Or you can run all of the trailer wires back to the main ground. This is actually the ideal solution. But you can also check the current grounds for the lights to make sure they are making a solid connection to a clean metal surface.
What you described is the classic insufficient ground... view full answer...
If your 2007 Ford E-450 has the factory 7-Way connector on the rear of the vehicle all you will need is the brake controller and the Tekonsha Ford Brake Controller Adapter, part # 3035-P. The adapter # 3035-P will plug into the brake controller port that will be tucked up under the dash, to the left of the steering column. I am including a link to the installation instructions on the Tekonsha adapter # 3035-P.
The adapter # 3034-P that you have referenced would not be the correct adapter... view full answer...
What you are describing sounds like corrosion on the brake output circuit of your vehicle 7-way. When the controller detects a load on the circuit (typically from the trailer brake magnets) it will say that it has connected to a trailer. Corrosion can cause a slight short on the circuit which then can trick the controller into thinking there is a trailer connected.
I would recommend cleaning the pins of your trailer 7-way with some fine grit sandpaper and the problem should go away.
I... view full answer...
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