I spoke to a technician at Air Lift. He told me the only time they get codes 8 and 9 active together is because there is debris or something loose in the electrical harness.
He told me to correct this you will need to unplug the harness from the manifold. Then blow out the four pins of the harness with some canned air. Then plug the harness back into the manifold and it should be working.
The tech said if that didn't fix the issue, you would need to reach out to Air Lift for a warranty claim. view full answer...
There are many reasons why one of your hubs is running hotter than the other. We usually recommend that you work on both hubs at the same time when you are trouble shooting, this way you know that the same work was done on both hubs. I would change the oil in the right hub, since you changed the oil in the left hub. I would replace the bearings in the hub you did not service, but take a close look at the bearings to make sure there are no deformities/abnormalities. If after doing this and... view full answer...
I can definitely provide some clarification on what size hex wrench/allen wrench you need for the M6 x 20mm security screw on the Rhino-Rack 2500 Series Legs # RRRLKVA. According to my metric size specs, you do need a hex key of 5mm for the screw. It is possible that your allen wrench or the screw itself is stripped. One way to try to solve this is by trying both sides of the 5mm wrench for the screw.
If you discover that there is a possibility that the screw is stripped, the only way... view full answer...
Most likely the problem with the lid not opening is a combination of the circuit board and the operating mechanism. I think the circuit board is why it is cutting in and out and the operating mechanism is causing the clicking noise. You could be correct in needing the Replacement Lift Motor for Maxx Fan Plus Roof Vent # MA10-20270 which is the correct replacement for the MaxxFan Deluxe Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan # MA00-07500K. But more likely it is that the operator mechanism for the lid needs... view full answer...
After speaking with Fan-Tastic Vent, the original remote for your 6600 vent is no longer available. The # FV9068-81 Replacement Digital Remote Control you have is not compatible with your current vent fan model, that is why it will not sync up.
If you want to use a remote, the only solution is to upgrade your vent assembly. I recommend the # FV807350 Fan-Tastic Vent Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan and Remote.
I have attached a video review for your reference. view full answer...
I do have an idea, and since you mentioned your other trailer is working, we can rule out your truck being the issue. Since you mentioned your brakes are new, and your wiring is just fine, the only other thing I can think may be the cause is corrosion in your trailer's 7-way.
That's really the only thing that makes sense if the wiring is not damaged, so you will want to take a look and you may see the pins corroded or damaged, and you can replace it with the Mighty Cord 7-Way RV-Style... view full answer...
Because the Buyers Products Electric Trailer Jack # 3370093500 receives its' power from the vehicle's 7 way, the most likely culprit is the 12v power circuit on your 2013 Chevy Silverado. You'll want to test to make sure you're getting ~12v on the 7 way using a multimeter like the # PT89ZR at the 1 o'clock pin on the truck's trailer plug.
I've linked a helpful article we did on 7 way wiring, which includes some diagrams that you might find helpful. If you can let me know what the voltage... view full answer...
When testing your tandem axle trailer with brakes, you should first test your 5 o'clock pin on your 7-way while using the manual override slide. You should get 12V at that point. The manual override needs to be applied because proportional controllers need to sense movement for the brakes to apply a proportional amount of voltage for brake pressure.
If that checks out, then check your main trailer ground connection to make sure it is bare metal and free of debris or corrosion. Then... view full answer...
There are a few things you can check in your # 118266 wiring setup to find out why there is no running light signal on your newly installed 7-way.
First, disconnect the plug from the back of the 7-way and inspect the running light contact on both the round U.S. Car connector the plugs in to the back or the 7-way and on the corresponding contact on the back of the 7-way socket. If either of these is bent even a little bit the signals will not make it through. Please refer to the photo see... view full answer...
If your Lippert electric stabilizer jacks will not operate via their motors or via the manual crank (which is now broken) I am afraid the only option to let you move the trailer is to remove the damaged rear stabilizer jacks.
You will need some method of safely stabilizing the rear of the trailer so that you can unbolt the damaged jack(s) and move the trailer. I understand that your rear jacks are off the ground already but for your safety I urge you to use stands like # UF48-979003 any... view full answer...
I assume you are referring to butt connectors and if that is the case then these can very well be the cause of your issue as they can trap corrosion over time and cause problems. If you test for power on the wire going into the connector and then coming out, that should then let you know if power is passing through the butt connector. If it is not then I prefer to solder and heat shrink wires together as this creates the best bond but we also have heat shrink butt connectors like part #... view full answer...
If your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 brake controller is showing "n.c" that means there is a connection issue. A ground issue is often the problem with what you are describing, though you did say you checked that. Just to be on the safe side I strongly recommend intricately ensuring all grounds are good so you can be sure that isn't the issue.
The other most likely issue, since you mentioned you checked all of your wiring, is an issue with your connectors. Often, corrosion or dirt may... view full answer...
If both middle jacks are not retracting or extending on your # LC675817, odds are one or more of the fuses is out. There is a fuse for each of the legs and if one of these is bad, it will definitely cause the legs not to work. This can be mounted just about anywhere though, so you will need to contact the trailer manufacturer to see where the fuse panel for this was mounted.
If the fuses all look good, you will need to check to make sure all the connections are solid and not loose in their... view full answer...
Hot water heater models like the Dometic RV Water Heater # DMC74FR use and ECO (energy cut-off) Thermostat instead of an adjustable thermostat. These thermostats are preset and are not able to be adjusted. They are typically set for 130 degrees so if you're experiencing temperatures higher than that you'll want to replace your thermostat. You'll have to reach out to Dometic for a replacement thermostat. view full answer...
You've done essentially everything that can be done as the normal causes of slow moving landing gear and blowing a fuse are the wiring, a bad motor, a weak battery, or issues with the legs. And the fact the FOB doesn't cause an issue with the fuse is completely bizarre. A fuse blows due to the circuit being overdrawn so is it possible you added some weight at the rear and overloading it where the jacks are?
That can be an issue, or there could be something going on with the switch being... view full answer...
I spoke to Tekonsha and the codes on your Primus IQ # TK90160 should change over within about 5 seconds on plugging in the trailer. You should not have to drive the vehicle around to get it to change either. With that being said, there could be one or two things causing this to happen.
First will be a bad ground somewhere. This will cause the circuit to not close all the way and make the controller not recognize the trailer when plugged in. I suggest double checking your ground connections... view full answer...
I am sorry to hear you are having this issue!
There are a few possibilities on what could cause the Roadmaster Tow Dolly # RM-2050-1 you have to bind up when turning.
The first thing to check is that the steering wheel on your 2010 Hyundai Elantra is locked. If it does not have a built in steering wheel lock you can wrap the seat belt a couple times around the steering wheel and then buckle it in place. Then pull the seat belt all the way out so that as you let it retract it locks.
If... view full answer...
It sounds as if the trailer running lamp fuse on the 2018 Ram 3500 is blown. The fuse panel is located in the engine compartment near the battery. The fuse for the trailer taillights is located in the F29 location, and is a 20A fuse.
I'd give the running lamp circuit on the trailer a quick lookover to make sure there aren't any short circuits that cause the fuse on the truck to blow. Trace the circuit from the trailer connector rearward, making sure there aren't any loose connections,... view full answer...
It sounds like your Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller # 90885 may have its red trigger wire connected to the wrong wire at your brake light switch.
This red wire should connect to the wire on the Envoy's brake light switch that carries power only when you press the pedal. There are other wires at the brake light switch that will carry power all the time and it is easy to accidentally connect the wrong one.
The best way to find the correct vehicle wire to connect to the red... view full answer...
It's certainly possible that a bad/weak ground is what is causing the issues on your Lippert 181794 (which is the current model # LC285318). This jack grounds through its mounting hardware so you will want to make sure that all the hardware and the trailer frame itself where it's mounted is free of any rust or corrosion.
If cleaning up the ground surface doesn't resolve the issue then there's likely an internal issue with the jack, specifically with the gears. The hammer strike might be... view full answer...
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