Round Gooseneck Coupler with 28" - 38" Adjustable Height - 24,000 lbs

Video Transcript for Redline Gooseneck Coupler Review

Randy: Hey guys, Randy here at etrailer.com. Today we're taking a look at a 2 and 5/16 inch gooseneck coupler. Now this is a 4 inch round classified couplet. Basically, it's gonna slide into your outer tube, or it also comes with a replacement outer tube that you can weld onto a trailer. It's gonna be more if you're doing repairs, replacements, things like that. Now this coupler will be a good replacement for just about any style of gooseneck trailer.

There's a few slight differences in this one compared to some of the other ones.This portion on standard gooseneck couplers, is just 4 inch round all the way down. This one is a little bit more rust. It appears to be a little bit more sturdy. This is, kind of matches your outer tube there a little bit more. Generally, we'll see them a little bit smaller.

I also like how nice and thick that our plate is down here. Generally, they're going to be about half that size on some of the other couplers. So really has that good, sturdy appearance.The overall build quality on it is good. The welds all look nice. There's a little bit of slag here and there on it, you can see.

But it is an unpainted coupler. You're going to have it sandblasted and painted anyway to match your trailer. So really not a big deal. Most of that's going to come off for you.I also like the handle. It's got a nice, large open design.

See we pull that up, rotate it. That's going to allow our capture plate there on the bottom to come back and you'll notice that's spring loaded. I like that feature. As our ball comes up into it, the plate's going to move out of the way. Once it gets all the way down, it'll come back in position and it's going to align that pinhole for us each time. So at that point, we just have to rotate our handle over. You can see it's going to go right down in position. That'll save us a little bit of that trouble of trying to move this plate back and forth and getting it lined up.Now another slight difference with this coupler over some of the other couplers. Some of them are designed this way. Some of them are designed to where they have a pin that goes through. Now I like them without the pin more. That gives us more adjustability. We're not relying on those holes to pass the pin through to get it set. And we haven't had any issues with these moving down or moving up with just the set bolt securing it. So you're going to be in good shape there.Another feature that's really helpful is the slight taper that we've got here around the ball opening. Basically if we're not dead center and we try to hook up, it's going to help to position that ball in the right place for us.The next question that we always get is would you buy that coupler Is that something you'd put on your trailer And if I was looking for just basic necessity, just to have a coupler on my trailer, I would. It's going to give us the standard gooseneck ride though. If you haul often, if you maybe haul livestock, you haul horses, or you've got living quarters in your gooseneck, I would go with the CG, the Convert-A-Ball Cushioned Gooseneck. Gives you a really drastically improved ride quality, to make things a lot more comfortable in the truck and the trailer. But if you're just hauling this from one side of the farm to the other side with hay on it, I think this is going to be a very good solution.Now to get the coupler connected to your gooseneck ball. Before we back the truck in and under, I always like to get this handle up and released so that auto latch or that spring-loaded flap will be able to operate. We'll just get the truck backed in underneath.Now we'll lower it down on and you'll see that bevel on the bottom helps to center it up, even if we don't have it dead center underneath our coupler. Once we've got it down and on there, all we do have to do is pull our pin latch there. Once we make the rest of our connections, we're gonna be ready to hit the road.Now to begin your installation, that's going to depend on what type of trailer set up you've currently got. If you're rebuilding, restoring or repairing. Of course, you're going to need to weld on the outer tube that's going to come with it. Now as you can see, these are all just about standard in length here. Our older coupler or the older outer tube we have here has a single set bolt. This is going to have two. Now that'll just be welded on. You can see it's an unfinished material so you don't have to worry about a bunch of grinding on it.The one thing to keep in mind. All gooseneck outer tubes generally have this plate welded on the top. That's going to prevent moisture from getting down in there. And really all of the replacement outer tubes don't have that. So I strongly recommend that you do have a plate welded on there just to keep out that moisture. On these set bolts, you can see they're a squared head. That's going to be a little bit different than what we see on some of the other couplers. This for a wrench to go on the outside, you'll need a 19 millimeter. And then for your final torque, we found that a 21 millimeter, 12 point socket will go on there and allow you to torque that down. And then your set bolts are going to be pretty standard. Just the inch and an eighth box and wrench. You can get those set down, or the jam nuts, you can get them jammed down so those bolts won't back out.Now as far as the inner tube goes, whether you're using your existing outer tube or new outer tube, we're going to get this slid up and in. Before you remove your old one, you'll want to measure to the bottom of it to see how far off the ground that is. We're going to match our new coupler height to that and then since we're using more of a standard set up here, it's going to be an inch and an eighth wrench to get that set. We're going to have our torque wrench, torque that down properly, then we can run down that jam nut.All right, at that point, you're going to be ready for use.