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Self-adjusting driver's-side and passenger's-side brakes are 12" x 2". Brake pads are made of durable friction material for improved braking and longevity. E-coated backing plates resist rust. Fit 14.5" to 16.5" wheels.
Features:
Specs:
Standard electric brake assemblies require manual adjustment of the brake shoes over time to provide longer-lasting and more efficient braking performance. With self-adjusting brakes, the brake shoes are always properly aligned, so there's no need to manually adjust the brakes after the initial adjustment. As a result, you get optimum performance without having to take the time to continually perform this type of maintenance.
These brake assemblies meet the requirements for certification by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). The CSA creates standards, which when complied with ensure a safe and quality product. These brake assemblies underwent extensive testing to measure stopping distances when braking. These brakes have also been tested by QAI for braking performance in a complete automotive setup and under real-world conditions to provide the most realistic scenario for the everyday driver.
Each shoe on these brake assemblies is lined with automotive-grade friction material for improved stopping performance and longevity. The friction material is fully bonded onto the surface of the brake shoe. This lining is custom-molded for a perfect fit. The edges are tapered to ensure long-lasting performance. This taper, along with the circular grinding that the lining undergoes, helps to prevent cracking and crumbling. This durability helps to prevent mechanical lockup, which can occur when brake shoes are excessively worn or broken.
The friction material is also SAE-N certified, which means that it is an environmentally safe product that complies with California and Washington regulations regarding the composition of brake pads. As a result, this material not only provides high-performance braking that can endure the test of time, but it is also environmentally friendly and safe for use throughout the United States and Canada.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hi there trailer owners, today on your 2017 Grand Design Reflection, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install etrailer's Electric Trailer Brake Kit. This is what your brake assembly is going to look like once you've got installed.Some of the features on this assembly that really stand out to me that make it better than some of the competitors is the shoes that are located on each side. They're going to be fully bonded shoes, so there're no rivets. Some of the other shoe manufacturers out there we'll place rivets that hold the friction material on. And the problem with the rivets, it does hold the pads on very nicely. But when your shoes wear down, eventually the material is going to wear it down into the rivets, which can then dig into your drum assembly and destroy the entire drum assembly with the bonded pads here, the material will wear down and it'll have to get all the way down to the metal here before that would happen.
So you get more pad life with a bonded pad than you would with a riveted pad. Since the rivets are going to poke through, and there's still going to be friction material left that you're not going to be able to use, due to those rivets digging into your drum assembly.The backing plate that comes included with it is going to be powder-coated to prevent against rust and corrosion and these assemblies are also going to be self-adjusting. If we look here, this cable will go down to our adjuster mechanism here on the star wheel. And so whenever we go to back up, it will cause the mechanism here to move and adjust the brakes outward. Now this is not entirely the way you want to adjust it.
Once we've got our assemblies installed, you do want to do a first time adjustment where you adjust it just initially. And then from there on out, these self adjusters should take care of those adjustments.A lot of people will install these though, and think that it will adjust itself appropriately the first time, which eventually it will. But since it only adjusts, when you're backing up, you would have to do many, many backup and brake stops for this to adjust it appropriately. So it's much better to just adjust it that first time and know you got it right, rather than waiting for the self adjuster to bring it up to where it needs to be. But once you've got it set up that first time, the auto adjuster will take care of the rest and you won't have to adjust them again for the rest of the life of the pads.This replacement electric brake assembly is designed to work with 5,200, 6,000 or 7,000 pound axles with a 12 by two inch drum.
They use a five bolt pattern, which is commonly found on these axle & drum sizes. You also find commonly in the size that your wheels will be 14 and a half 15, 16, or 16 and a half inches.We'll begin our installation by lifting our trailer up and supporting it with jack stands and then taking the wheel off. You can lift it up with your floor jack and you can use your impact, if you've got one to take the wheels off. If you don't have an impact, you want to make sure you crack all of the nuts loose first before you lift it up. Now with our wheel out of the way, we can take a rubber mallet or a dead blow and gently tap on this.
We're not trying to take it all the way off with the hammer just to get it to come out a little bit so we can get our screwdriver behind it.Here we go, we got it to pop just a little bit. And then our flat-bladed screwdriver now will fit down that little spot and we can go ahead and pry it out. I also recommend that you got a rag set up somewhere because all of these components are going to have a lot of grease on them and it'll just help minimize the mess. Once we get the cover off, we can remove the cotter pin beneath it. You'll want to bend the cotter pin straight again and then you can just push it out of there.It can be a little tricky to get out, but it's just working back and forth a little bit and it will come out of there. If you can get your screwdriver in there. Now, a lot of times you are going to deform the pin. So I do highly recommend replacement when you do this, you can get cotter pins here at etrailer.com with cotter pin out of the way, we can take our nut off. We're just going to use some channel locks to unthread it, surely not on there tight you could do it by hand, but to help minimize the mess, we're going to use our channel locks. Set that aside and we can then slide our hub assembly off. Now you want to check it first. See if you can, if it gets stuck just like this one did here, you'll have to go underneath and loosen up your brake pads in order for it to slide off. There're covers located on the back of your assemblies, you just want to pop those off with your screwdriver.And then we can look inside for a small star wheel. We'll adjust the star wheel to loosen our brake pads. You'll also see on the star wheel, there will be a piece of metal on there, and that's the auto adjuster that pushes down to turn the stars. So we want to go the opposite way. We're going to be turning the side facing up to go the other direction.Sometimes it does require two screwdrivers. One to hold that piece of metal, the auto adjuster out of your way, and then another to adjust it. You don't always have to hold it out of the way, but sometimes the auto adjuster will readjust as you're unadjusting so you're not really getting any progress. We're just turning this little star wheel in here and you'll get a better look at the star wheel once we get it off. Cause it is difficult to see inside here unless you're looking directly at it. And once you get your screwdrivers in there, you really can't see it either.So we're just going to keep rotating it. And then we'll check to see if we can get it off. Now, it's now we'll slide it in. You can see it's going to come off now, before we take it all the way off. So we're going to take our screwdriver and we're going to put it on there to catch the bearing and the washer. I'm going to set those aside and we're going to get us a different rag to set the hub assembly on. So we don't make a mess, slide that off and set it on there. We can then remove all the nuts surrounding it that holds our backing plate on. We're using a 9/16" socket to do so.Now, before we slide our assembly off, we do have to cut the wires that are connected to it. So we're just going to ring them out and snip those. Got both of those snipped. This is the wire we're going to hook it back to coming out of our axle. These are just going to stay there because we're going to throw this whole assembly away. We can then slide the whole assembly off and then discard it.We'll now take our new assembly. Make sure you get your wires pulled out of the center there a lot of times they're tucked in and we're just going to slide it right on. Line up the holes in the backing plate with that on the hub there. And then re-install the nuts you want to make sure that you slid on the appropriate side. Most of them are going to be labeled here on the inside, where it says right-hand, but the best way to really go about it rather than using a sticker is to just compare it to your old assembly. The cable on this side goes towards the rear, just like our old assembly did. It was towards the rear. If we look at our other side, it's going to angle off towards this way because it's supposed to be on the other side. So it will angle towards the rear when, on the other side. So we know we got the right side, go ahead and re-install your nuts. We can then go back and tighten them down. I like to do it in a cross pattern to ensure that it tightens evenly.Then we'll torque our hardware to the trailer manufacturer specifications. We can then reattach our wires now. We're going to be using heat shrink butt connectors to attach it. If you need some, you can get some at etrailer.com here. I'm going to start by just putting one on each of the wires coming off of our brake assembly. And it really doesn't matter which one you hook these up to. As long as it gets power and ground, the brake hub doesn't really care, which one is the power wire and which one is the ground wire. So we only have two wires that go to this. So we're just going to hook those up to either one of those. So we're going to strip each of our old wires back now And just crimp those right onto our new trailer brake wires. Then we can use our heat gun to shrink down the butt connector.Now, if you're just replacing your brake assembly here, then you can reinstall your hub in reverse order of how you removed it. But since you've already got everything apart, I highly recommend it this time that you inspect your bearings and repack them. And if you find any damage with those, you should also replace your bearings at this time. Now, if you do need bearings in a hub, I highly recommend purchasing one of our kits here at etrailer.com to supplement your electric brake install.When you're reinstalling the drum, everything's just in the reverse order of how we took it off. But once we get the nut on here, before we put our Cotter pin back in, we do have to adjust our bearing pressure. Now, what I usually do when doing this as I will put it all the way tight first, just to ensure that the bearing is fully seated.So I'm spinning the hub. I'm tightening it all the way down with my champ box. Now that I've got it all the way tightened down, I want to back it back off because that's going to be too tight. That just ensures that we are fully seated. So we're going to back it off until it feels loose. And then we're just going to come up until it's snugs up against it. And then we want to check our holes here. And if we need to make small adjustments to our nut, to allow our Cotter pin to go back into place. So it's a little bit too tight, but if we loosen it up right about there, we can get our Cotter pin back in.We are replacing those. Our pin will slide in the hole and again, we may have to make some subtle adjustments to the nut in order for it to slide through. Once we've got it slid through. We're going to do just like our old one was and just bend both of the legs up to ensure that it can't come back out. Then we can just finish reinstalling our cap when going back on, I just have it with the mallet a little bit, just gently all the way around working it into place.At this point, now we can adjust our brake assembly. We want it to feel for a drag. There is a very slight subtle drag there, which is kind of what we're looking for, but these assemblies are often adjusted too loose. So it is best to adjust it. If it feels like it's getting too tight, we can just loosen it back up again. We're going to take the covers off just like we did when we loosened the old assembly up. And just like we did on that one, the only difference this time is we're going to be going down instead of up. So we're just going to adjust the star down and then we'll spin our assembly after making a few turns and see how it feels.Now we've got adjusted. What you're looking for is a slight drag and it's not going to drag the entire rotation. It's typically just going to drag at certain spots so we can see when we rotate it. We don't even hear it. Then when it comes around and then we can hear it. So that's what we're looking for. Just a slight drag like that. You can check it again once you get your wheel on, because a lot of times when you get the wheel on, you've got more mass there, so you can rotate the whole thing. And they'll usually rotate one or two times and you'll hear it scrape the pads just a little bit on its rotation around. If it doesn't even make one full rotation, then you probably got it a little bit too tight and you'll want to loosen it back up.We've adjusted on this side, I put the caps back in on the back and we can repeat this exact same process on the other side to complete our installation.If you have multiple axles like we do here, you can purchase another kit to do the other axle, if you need that one down as well. And that completes our installation of etrailer's Electric Trailer Brake Kit on our 2017 Grand Design Reflection..
Average Customer Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars (1581 Customer Reviews)
Self-adjusting driver's-side and passenger's-side brakes are 12" x 2". Brake pads are made of durable friction material for improved braking and longevity. E-coated backing plates resist rust. Fit 14.5" to 16.5" wheels.
The trailer brake assembly fit & work great on our 20 electric braking axles on the many trailers we have. When we wear out a brake assembly we can easily replace it with a new one in short order.
Box was damaged in shipping. Brakes pads were shifted off the pivot stud. Realigned. Looks like they're ok. I won't know for sure until they're installed and operating. Still an excellent so far. Good price, and fast shipping.
The brake assemblies look good. I have not yet received the hub/drum assemblies. the packaging for the brake assemblies is totally unacceptable. the cardboard box was two and one half times larger than appropriate and had one piece of paper stuffed in to hold the contents in place. when I lifted the box I was sickened to hear the product roll from one end of the box to the other. Luckily there was little damage except for paint. Hopefully the hub/drum assemblies are packaged better.
I sent a question to etrailer.com Re: brake assemblies for my 1964 Airstream RV. I got a prompt response explaining how to measure the old brakes on the trailer to correctly size the brakes I needed. Finding the size allowed me to research the hub & bearing assemblies I also needed. I ordered them all with confidence they'd fit. Installed the self adjusting Electric Brake Assemblies along with the Hub kit with bearings, All parts fit together perfectly. Thanks George.
They don’t seem to be self adjusting. I did an initial adjustment and have had them on for a year now and they don’t seem to grab very strong. I have these on a tandem axle flatbed and all four engage but I can’t get the tires to drag on gravel even with the settings all the way up. I just redid all the wiring on my trailer and ran new lines, all soldered, and still no improvement. It’s possible it has something to do with my tow vehicle (2500 Cummins) but I have it set to “heavy electric” and it’s not engaging. The old brakes I replaced actually worked better than these ones.
I would have to say that the self adjust drums were a nightmare! They actually wore completely out in less than 6 months with one assembly completely and literally exploding. They seemed to have been over adjusting themselves. They never really gave any real noticeable stopping power. I will never have another trailer with drum brakes. We had to have those brakes warrantied out and we upgraded to the disk brake conversion which is a night and day difference! We love the disk brakes that we received from etrailer!
Good value for the $. Exact fit and fast shipping. Stopping power a little bit lower than original Dexter Brakes
These brake assemblies were an exact duplicate of the originals I was replacing. If you zoom on the pictures I took the two right side ratchet assemblies are knocked loose due to the shipping being dropped, no fault of the etrailer. The sturdy shipping box came in very handy for kneeling on while working on the brakes as you can see I’m working in the area with gravel all around the wheels. This is my second purchase from etrailer and both purchases have arrived quickly and worthy of their price.
The customer service was Great. Delivery was fast. However the four break assemblies were shipped without individual boxing/padding in a 2ft X 4ft x 6” box. One of the assemblies had a 1/4”chip out of the edge of a break pad and on another assembly, a break shoe became dislodged from it’s upper seat. With such strong springs, these assemblies must have been really thrown around should have been individually boxed or padded. I was able to correctly position the break shoe.
eTrailer shipped promptly and the brake kit was a perfect fit. Have bought from them before and will continue.
These are outstanding backing plates and brakes setups. I ordered four of these for my 1997 Sunnybrook fifth wheel. Everything is preassembled! All I had to do was adjust the brakes a little to get the new hubs over them and that was all. Five nuts to remove and replace. Great product!
Items arrived on time. Packaging was tough for these items. One of the brake assemblies came apart probably during shipping. I have enough knowledge that I was able to put it back together and all assemblies fit well on my camper. Haven't tested it out yet as it is still winter here in NY. Hopefully brakes will work well.
Five star. shipping was slow. Product was great 14 K 14 plies under 2000 pounds independent suspension. Low fast and sassy. Yep that’s how I build them.
They were an exact replacement for the brakes on our 2019 Solitude 5th wheel. The replacement was an easy DIY and we have been more than satisfied with the product and it's performance since install. The transaction was quick and simple. Thank you
Who knew lack of forward progress could be so satisfying.
After being pushed around by my new trailer, from a highly respected manufacturer, I sought help. First from a repair shop and then a friend with some experience working on trailer brakes.
When he pulled the first drum, we were both shocked. It was covered in bearing grease. Turns out the rear seals on all four wheels had been blown out and the drums were coated in grease along with the backing plates and brake shoes.
i ordered new self adjusting trailer brakes from etrailer, and the my buddy and I got dirty. Several cans of brake clean and scuffed knuckles later, My new trailer now stops like a new trailer.
I can't thank etrailer and my buddy enough.
After a year and a few thousand miles, my new trailer brakes just seem to be getting better. Thank for this solid product and, as always, great service.
Ordering and shipping were seamless and quick. Assembly was a piece of cake! All drum brakes should be this easy! The only point I have is it appears the assemblies were banging together during shipping which damaged two wires on the one assembly. It was an easy fix with some shrink tubing. Maybe better packaging would help eliminate this in the future
The price was great but after 100 miles one of them failed. The spring broke and the pad wore down to the metal and damaged the new Hub and drum I Replaced with it. I was on the road miles from my home and had to have a local shop pull it off and charge me for a whole new assembly. The other three I replace with this one worked great. I trailed 3,000 mile with no other problems. These are made in China and I took the chance. One bad one out of four not bad but it failing on my trip was a pain in the rear. Cost to repair just this one brake assembly and new hub/drum on the road was $[XX].
I bought this item a year ago. etrailer was the only supplier that had the brakes with the automatic adjuster. As my trailer was originally equipped with this option, I wanted to replace it with an identical set-up. The original brakes were not worn but heavily rusted and did not provide the performance required.
The new brakes from e-trailer were reasonably priced, quick delivery, an exact match, and installation was just a few bolts and a couple of wires. My order was quickly processed and the customer service was great. My brakes automatically adjust and now stop my 10,000 lb trailer on a dime. I have owned them for a year with zero issues. Five stars all around. I would recommend this item to anyone looking for a great brake setup for a heavy trailer.
Thanks etrailer!
The order I received was not what I ordered. I was supposed to get 3500lb brake kit but I got the 7000lb assembly. I called customer service and Paula is shipping me the correct assembly parts. Maybe my order will be correct the second time.
They were packed in paper in a big box. Packaging was very poor! The UPS guy dropped the box hard on the front porch and damaged one or 2 of the brake assemblies. I will have to determine which are good and which are damaged...
Sorry for the delayed response, but I did not want to write until I was ready to give my purchase an "Excellent" rating. Although happily it has ended that way, it did not start well.
In short, the loaded backing plates were installed without incident on a 1967 Airstream before hitting the road on a camping trip. At some point, the brake controller gain was boosted after deciding something was wrong. It blew a fuse.
I was able to reassess my initial installation today. A wire from the last backing plate I checked was pinched hard enough to short between the new backing plate & axle flange to short to ground.
It is all good now, and my antique classic stops on a dime. I have enjoyed every part I have bought from etrailer; keep up the Excellent work!
Tom
I have made six cross country trips in my RV now and trust these brakes. They are good parts and obviously trust them with my RV and my families safety.
The product is excellent the handling of the product by UPS damaged one of the brake assemblies, but etrailer has told me they are going to send another brake assembly to replace the one that was damaged by UPS overall very satisfied with etrailer
Dealing with Lori was great. However, UPS shipping was a huge disappointment. One box had obvious water damage with components falling out. If I were home during delivery I would have declined. This is unacceptable, etrailer and I deserve better service!
Good quality and perfect fit. I wish they came with the 5 bolts to hold them on, the bolt die as fast as the brake assembly.
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