Replacement Miter Gear Kit for Dutton-Lainson Trailer Jacks - 600 - 1,000 lbs. (1997 and Newer)

Video Transcript for Dutton-Lainson Trailer Jacks Replacement Miter Gear Kit Review

Today we're going to be taking a look at the rebuild process for the Dutton-Lainson trailer tongue jack. This is going to work for the 600 up to 1000 pound variety of jack, which are typically going to be the 6400 or the 6700 series. These need to be made after 1997. That's the cut off when they switched to a new gear kit. Anything before 97 you'll need something else or maybe even a new jack if the gear kit's not available. You'll see here we've got our screw gear, we've got our handle gear, we've got the spacers that are made to fit in the outer tube of the jack, gives us a greater surface area for the handle to ride on, and we've got our replacement pin. These are part number DL22437, these are going to come as a kit for you.

While we're doing this we're also going to show you the wheel replacement. Pretty simple, straight forward, one bolt wheel replacement if that we're ever to get damaged. The wheel with the new bolts, part number DL22440, and we've also got a handle replacement. Now you'll notice the handle's a little bit of a upgrade. It's more of a rubberized texture, larger areas on the end to help keep our had in place, that's also going to come with the bushing for it to ride in, then there's a little roll pin if we need it to get it secured.

That part number is DL22446. As far as wheel replacement goes, this is a pretty straight forward situation here. What we're going to use is a couple of 19 millimeters, we just need to get our bolt pulled out of there. It's going to slide out. We would at that point grab our new bolt nut wheel. Going to place that back in, slide our bolt through and then get it secured down.

We don't want to tighten this down so much that it causes our wheel to bind up. This should be able to freely rotate. See that Won't spin freely. That's going to be just a touch too tight. Back that off just a little bit and there we go, nice smooth operation.

That's the ideal setting, that'll be right where you want it to be. If all you need to do is replace your wheel, you're done at this point. Now let's get into our gear and our handle kit here. There's a black cap on top. What we'll need to do is just use a screw driver and just kind of pop that cap up and off, just like that. We look inside and see a bunch of grease in there, but in there are our gears, so let's get that grease cleaned up. You can see right here, closer to the side our handle's on there, is that little roll pin. That pin right there holds our handle in place. If you we're just replacing the gears you need to save that. That doesn't come with the gear kit, that only comes with the handle kit. To get it out we just want to use a punch. We're using a 530 inaudible 00:03:44. Once that's passed all the way through our handle, that's going to free our handle up where we can slide that out. It's got the flat spot on it, that's where our gear's going to ride. Let's set our handle aside for now, unless you're just doing a handle replacement, then you're ready to just put your new handle in, put your new pin in. Get your old pin out of there, pull this one out. You'll see that's the one that's got the flat spot on it. That's the one that fits under our handle. We've got those spacers, those are just going to push in. I'm going to make those towards the handle side. If we look down on the bottom there's going to be our main drive gear. This one's designed to hold the pin in place so it can't pass out. If we reach in there, typically to remove this pin you'll have to turn it towards the small hole in the side of the jack so it'll come out that way. Once we take that outer tube off of our inner tube you can see we've just got 2 washers and there's a little nylon washer between there to help reduce friction. That's going to allow our screw to spin. Coming up and down, that's going to force the leg of the jack down or retract it back up, so it's really hard to mess these up. These screws are super dependable, very reliable. It's not something you typically have issues with. Issues typically come higher in the system of where our gears are. The 2 washers with the nylon disk there, if you need to replace that, that'll be part number DL207357-56, basically you'll just take them off and put your new ones right back on. We'll bring our outer tube back down, when we do it should just slide up through the middle. We're going to be reusing the old gear kit that came with it, of course, since it's brand new. We'll take our pin, again that small hole usually allows us the room we need to get that in there. We just want to rotate it so it kind of lines up with the hole that's in the screw, place that in there and grab it with our pliers, then we'll just rotate our wheel til we find our hole location. We want to slide that into where we've got equal parts sticking out of both sides of it there. We're going to grab our screw gear, that's the one that is enclosed, and that needs to slide onto our pin. We want to make sure that fully seats down so the top of the screw should be flush with the top of the gear. If it doesn't seat like that, you just need to rotate it until it goes onto that pin. Side tube spacers there, we'll get those slid in. The one that's more rounded uses a little bit of friction to hold it in place, so if we get that lined up, typically we can use our punch. There's a little flat spot on that. We want to ensure that that's facing down towards the bottom of our jack, or towards the wheel on our jack. That should just pop into place for us. Now it will be time to put our handle gear back in. I just kind of want to align the hole in it up with the hole that's in that spacer, then if you're doing your new handle, you'll put your new handle in at this point. You just want to line up that flat spot with the flat spot on our gear there. I like to pass all the way through. Then we just have to put that roll pin right back in that hole in our handle. Use a needle nose there and just get it lined up with the hole, then we'll use our hammer and our punch to knock it on in. Just make sure you're free floating, make sure you don't have any kind of interference or any kind of binding issues and now it's time to re-grease that. You don't necessarily need a high temp grease, but a good quality grease is recommended here. Just want to get that filled up. Now to grab our cap, pop it right down on there. That's really all there is to it. Clean it up a little bit and ready to start and join our jack again and saved our self quite a bit of money rather than buying a brand new one.