Changing Idler Hubs on Small 5x8 Trailer to Electric Brakes

Question

Question:

I am pulling a small 2200 lb GVWR cargo trailer that weighs about 800 lb dry, but want to have full cargo range. It has 13 wheels on a single full torsion 3500 lb idler axle with a 4 hole brake bracket, but no drums or disc setup. I have a minivan that has a hitch on it and is prepped for full trailer GVWR with proper cargo tongue wt. The trailer has an A-frame coupler. Wheels are 13 with 5 on 4.5. I dont anticipate need for weight distribution or sway control as trailer is 5X9. I would like option to pull lightly loaded unit in a Pontiac vibe. It presently doesnt have controller either. I probably dont need trailer brakes strickly, but am wondering what it would cost to do it and what is the most economic route. I dont tow that many miles/yr, but am still curious. I looked at disc ideas, but the A-coupler seemed to force the electric-hydraulic actuator need. So I am guessing electric brakes/drums with with controller is cheapest? Thanks for any insights.

asked by: Frank

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Expert Reply:

With a smaller trailer like you describe, electric brakes would be my recommendation both from a cost standpoint as well as the ease of installation.

For the trailer, you would need two hub/drum assemblies and two brake assemblies. To determine if the hub/drum assemblies we offer are compatible with your trailer spindles, you will need to pull one of your idler hubs off, and look at the inner and outer bearing numbers. The hubs we offer, part # AKHD-545-35-K use # L68149 inner bearings and # L44649 outer bearings. The bearings, races and grease seal is included. The appropriate brake assemblies would be part # AKEBRK-35L for the left hand side and # AKEBRK-35R for the right side. A 7-way trailer connector would be needed for the trailer, such as part # H20042. You would need several feet of 10 gauge wire, part # 10-1-1 to carry the brake output voltage.

The tow vehicle would need a 4-pole trailer connector. For the 2003-2008 Vibe, use part # 118458. For 2009-2010 models, use part # 118460. You will need a brake controller, the Tekonsha Voyager you referenced, part # 39510 would work fine but the Prodigy P2, part # 90885 is much more user friendly. You will also need the Brake Controller Install Kit, part # ETBC7 which includes everything necessary for installing a brake controller, including the adapter to convert the 4-pole to a 7-way.

We have some install videos that you might find helpful, click on the provided links to view them.

expert reply by: Mike L

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Answer 1

If you just need a 4-pin to 7-pin trailer wiring adapter, then you can use part #C57672. This will plug into the 4-pin trailer connector on your brother's vehicle and give him the 7-pin socket for the trailer. Keep in mind, this will only…

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Answer 2

You can install on your existing trailer a new axle that has electric brakes, but there are a few things to consider. First you need to make sure the new axle has a weight capacity equal to or greater than the stock axle. (I did a check on the…

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Answer 3

If you connect the trailer brake light circuit to the trailer brake circuit your brakes would lock up immediately since 12 volts is max braking voltage for trailer brakes. You'd need a brake controller that can vary voltage so that you can apply…

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Answer 4

The closest Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors we have to matching the 1.975" inner hub bore diameter you measured are part #BB1968 for Chrome or #BB1968SS for Stainless Steel (rust resistance). As you mentioned in your question these are designed…

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Answer 5

A 2,000 lb trailer axle like the Dexter Trailer Axle Beam part #T20BTR-7258 is not going to come equipped from the manufacturer with a brake mounting flange because of the weight of the trailer it is designed to be used on. However, most qualified…

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Answer 6

The wiring on the Electric Trailer Brake Kit #AKEBRK-35-SA are both the same color as they are not positive/negative specific. So you are able to install either wire to the positive terminal and the other to the negative terminal.

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Answer 7

It sounds like you might be searching for some replacement electric trailer braking assemblies or possibly just replacement parts. It's typically not much less cost effective to just replace the entire assembly so that's what I recommend. I…

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Answer 8

Depending on how the trailer was made, there will be a few spots you can check to identify the axle. First, if the trailer was pre-made by a specific company, you may be able to find this information in either the paperwork or on a placard somewhere…

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Answer 9

Trailer wheel lug nuts that are 1/2-inch inside diameter typically have a 20-TPI thread pitch (20 threads per inch). Most lug nuts also use a 60-degree-coned profile like #CE11051, but a 90-degree like #STN569 is also available for 9/16-inch studs.…

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Answer 10

The difference between a load range E and load range F tire of the same size, 235/85-16, is the weight capacity and pressure. The Karrier Radial Tire, Load Range E, #AM10295, has a capacity of 3,640 pounds at 95 psi. The Load Range F Tire, #AM10501,…

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Answer 11

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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Answer 12

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

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