Screw Locations for Removing Cover on Lippert Electric Trailer Jack # LC285318

Question

Question:

I pulled the four screws from under the housing on my Lippert tongue jack I can get the very front of the top of the housing loose but the back wont come off and I dont want to break it so I know the screws to loosen to get it off do I just need to forcefully do it

asked by: Raymond W

0

Expert Reply:

To remove the housing unit on your Lippert Electric Trailer Jack # LC285318 it looks like there should be the 4 screws that you removed plus an additional 2 screws under the rubber plug next to the manual override nut. Once you remove the 2 additional screws you should be able to easily remove the cover.

expert reply by: Jon G

0

click to enlarge

Answer 1

I spoke to my contact at Lippert about wiring the toggle switches for the Lippert Electric Trailer Jack #LC285318. They stated that they don't have any schematics on this unfortunately but what we were able to do is snap a photo of the back of…

view full answer...

Answer 2

Lippert does not offer a replacement inner jack tube for their jack 1817941. When a jack is damaged in this way (which is more common than you want to know) it really is best to replace the entire jack for safety reasons. The outer tube on your jack…

view full answer...

Answer 3

The best way to power an electric A-Frame jack is with a trailer mounted battery and use the 12V accessory power feed from the trailer connector to provide a maintenance charge to the battery. If that isn't possible, the only other acceptable…

view full answer...

Answer 4

The fuse that protects the powered a-frame jack part #EJ-3520-WBX is a 30 amp fuse part #EJ-FUSE. It's inline on the power wire of the jack so you don't have to worry about it aside from just powering the jack up like normal.

view full answer...

Answer 5

The Electric Jack w/ Footplate #EJ-3520-WBX will still operate if you have multiple 30-amp fuses on one circuit. I would recommend still removing the other fuse as if something were to cause one of the fuses to become damaged you or someone else…

view full answer...

Answer 6

We have the replacement override nut with the part #LC55FR and also the replacement crank handle part #LC285324. The size is a 3/4 inch hex socket if you had a ratchet and socket set nearby.

view full answer...

Answer 7

There are 4 screws on the bottom of the bottom cover holding it to the top. And if you remove the cap on the very top of jack #LC285318 you will see 2 more screws. With all the screws removed you should have no problem with the cover. These very…

view full answer...

Answer 8

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

view full answer...

Answer 9

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

view full answer...

Answer 10

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

view full answer...

Answer 11

Hey Michael, thanks for reaching out! The Timbren Active Off-Road Bumpstops #T28GR you installed on your 2018 Ford F-150 unfortunately have that reputation among users (although Timbren claims their systems provide a smooth ride). Because of this we…

view full answer...

Answer 12

You will have to go with a sliding hitch to allow the trailer to make tight turns. For a trailer 8 feet wide the only bed length that's going to allow 90 degree turns without a slider is a stationary hitch. That being said you have two options.…

view full answer...