Sounds like your taillights and trailer lights are overdrawing your 1992 Toyota Pickup and that is why the fuse is blowing. When you put your truck in reverse you have your foot on the brake which is activating the trailer brake lights as well as the truck brake lights, and then when the reverse lights of the truck come on additional amperage is being pulled and most likely causing the fuse to blow.
What needs to happen is the amperage draw of your trailer needs to be reduced. The easiest... view full answer...
I was unable to find a diagram of the fuse box online for your 2020 Toyota Highlander but if you look at the lid of the fuse box it will have a diagram explaining where each fuse is and its function. You can use this to find the trailer lighting fuse for your vehicle.
The picture you referenced, which I've also attached below, is for a 2020 Toyota Highlander. view full answer...
As you mentioned in your question the P.L. error code on the Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller # TK90160 indicates some sort of power interruption. In our experience this seems to be typically caused by a poor ground connection.
You will want to make sure that the white wire from the Primus IQ is securely attached to the negative terminal on the battery for your Tacoma and that it hasn't come loose at all. If this connection is sound and the error code persists, it could also... view full answer...
It is certainly possible that a 10-year-old factory trailer connector can go bad. Sometimes internal corrosion or damage may not be visible. We do offer replacements for the factory wiring in tow-package-equipped Tundras, such as Hopkins # HM43385 and Tow Ready # 20137, which plug in to the OEM connectors. Both of these include 7-way and 4-pole connectors.
First, I suggest you check for blown fuses and replace any as needed. If this does not fix the problem, you can test the truck's wiring... view full answer...
The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C55379 really should not have any trouble fitting into a 4 Flat bracket, like the # 18144, and we use these together pretty often. I have seen a few instances where the bracket was tighter than usual, but a moderate amount of force got everything snapped into place in very little time. The amount of trouble you are having is not normal by any means. Especially since you are going about it the correct way.
This will sound odd, but it may be... view full answer...
First, what I recommend is checking the converter box in the trailer wiring, # 118378, to determine if it is the harness or the truck that is the problem. Use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 if needed to test the wires going into the converter box from the truck.
If the signals are correct going into the box, you know that the truck is not the problem. Then test the wires coming out of the converter. If the signals are all correct coming out of the converter, the problem is somewhere... view full answer...
The trailer running lights use a single dedicated circuit from the connector on your 4Runner so if just the right side running lights aren't working then we know the problem is somewhere on the trailer, and not the tow vehicle.
The fact that only the right side on the trailer isn't working actually helps to narrow down the potential cause quite a bit, as the fault could really only be with the tail light itself (which works fine for the brake/turn so we can rule that out) or with the... view full answer...
Since the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness for Factory Tow Package - 7-Way and 4-Flat Connectors # HM11143325 you have is designed specifically for your 2008 Toyota Sequoia, then it should have the wires in the correct location.
You can test this with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. You will want to test the 1 o'clock pin of the 7-way and it should have 12v power constantly, and next test the 5 o'clock pin on the 7-way connector it should only have 12v power when the brake... view full answer...
The first step I would take is to replace the 14 gauge wire for the electric brakes with either 10 or 12 gauge wire. It is not recommended to use wire smaller than 12 gauge on electric brake and battery charge circuits on trailers. The smaller gauge wire should not cause a significant voltage drop by itself, but it could easily overheat and cause problems in the future.
The next step would be to inspect your ground connections. Be sure everything is grounded to a clean, bare metal surface.... view full answer...
You can always call a lock smith but that is not cheap. I would not try to force them to turn as you could damage the reminder of the latch housing.
You will have to drill them out. Start with a small bit, like a 1/8, and work your way up to a 1/4 inch or 5/16. Eventually you'll remove enough of the cylinder that you can get the lock open. Do not drill very deep as you still need the structure that supports the new lock cylinder.
If in the worst case you end up damaging the latch then... view full answer...
In order to determine if the Tekonsha Prodigy RF Wireless Trailer Brake Controller part # TK94FR is causing your tail lights not to function you would need to unplug the trailer end connector from the brake controller and then plug that directly into the vehicle. If all the tail light functions then you know the issue is with the brake controller. The only thing you can really do to troubleshoot the brake controller is check the pins inside each trailer connector. If the pins are fine then... view full answer...
If your Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty Brake Controller # RED24FR doesn't have the light lit up then you likely have no power getting to the controller (see attached from manual).
What you will need to do is check the black wire from the 4-wire pigtail at the back of the controller to see if it has power on it or not. If it doesn't then that would explain why the controller isn't powered and you need to figure out if it's a fuse or a bad connection somewhere.
To check the connections from the... view full answer...
Since you mention that you aren't getting any signal when testing the connector on the Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness, # C56165, for your 2012 Toyota RAV4, I recommend testing the 12 volt power wire right behind the wiring harness's converter box. If there is no power then you will want to trace the wire looking for damage. If you have power on the 12 volt circuit, you can move on to testing the wires coming out of the converter box. If these wires do not show power when the signals are... view full answer...
This sounds like a possible ground problem or dirt/corrosion in the trailer side or vehicle side connectors. Ground issues can be fixed by checking the trailer connector and trailer light grounds and making sure they are attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
On the trailer connector pins you can use a sharp tool or wire brush small enough to fit and clean out the dirt and corrosion if present.
You can also check to see if the running light power draw is close to or... view full answer...
For starters, you will want to turn the vehicle on and test the running light circuit (brown wire) on the vehicle's 4-way with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993. If power is present, then you know the problem in on the trailer. If power is not present, then you know the problem is on the vehicle.
If the error is on the vehicle side, then you will first want to start by checking the fuse box to see if any fuses associated with the trailer or running lights are blown. If not, you can... view full answer...
Although you may have already checked your wiring and not noticed any obvious short, the fact that your circuit breaker # 9510 is continuously tripping is a key indicator that you have a short circuit somewhere in your wiring.
You're going to need to go through your wiring again looking for anything that could possibly be causing a short. If all else fails, and there is absolutely no wiring that is causing a short then the only thing left you can do is to run new wiring. view full answer...
Electric reverse lock out solenoids draw a very small amount of amperage. We have yet to hear about a vehicle blowing a reverse light fuse from using the circuit to activate a reverse lockout solenoid.
You would be just fine. view full answer...
Is this a brand-new installation, or has the T-Connector been installed for awhile?
As a first step, I would recommend trying a different trailer, if possible. This will help determine if the problem is in the trailer wiring or that of the vehicle.
If everything works fine with another trailer, then you have confirmed that the problem is in the trailer wiring. If the lights on the second trailer do the same thing, you have confirmed that the T-Connector is faulty and should be replaced.... view full answer...
The OL code that you are seeing on your Prodigy P2 brake controller indicates that the brake controller is seeing an overload. Possible causes for this are a short on the electric brake wire or a poor ground connection.
The first and easiest step is to inspect the trailer connector on the truck and trailer for any corrosion. If you see any green or white residue on the pins, that could indicate that corrosion has spread into the connector as well. You will want to repair or replace the... view full answer...
The Hopkins 4-pole harness we offer for your RAV4 is part # HM11141820 and this installs by plugging in at your taillight wiring connectors and via a single 12V power wire connection at your vehicle battery. If your vehicle taillights failed after these harness installations this suggests a problem in the converter module itself or a short in the connectors/wiring between the vehicle and the module. The good new is that the unit did what it was intended to - fail before it allowed any damage... view full answer...
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