The lights in the adapter will tell you that the vehicle itself is sending the proper signals for the directionals, running lights and brake lights. These lights are useful to eliminate the vehicle as being the cause of any wiring problems. It will not tell you of any trailer wiring issues.
If the lights in the adapter indicate that the signals coming out of the vehicle are all operating correctly, but the trailer lights are not working you will have to troubleshoot the trailer. To do... view full answer...
If your battery is dying because the hatch door is open when using the Rightline Gear SUV Tent with Rainfly # RL110907 then you have something staying on that needs to have the power cut. Most likely it's your lights so you can pull the dome light fuse (Fuse Number 5) and see if that solves your issue.
To make it easy you can install the Blue Ox Fuse ByPass Switch for Towed Vehicles # BX88272 to simply turn the fuse on/off with a switch.
If you notice you're still draining the battery... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha, and the problem is most likely a bad connection from your Tekonsha Prodigy P3 # 90195 to your 2008 Toyota 4Runner.
If you have the Plug-In Wiring Adapter, then you should start by replacing that. It is listed on our site as part # 3040-P.
The other option is if the P3 was hardwired in using a pigtail like part # 20127. If the connector was hardwired in then you will want to replace that instead. You can use Butt Connectors # DW05745-5 to help accomplish... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Aries about this and he stated the most likely problem is the support brackets on the top of the guard. It is recommended to check the bolts periodically and make sure they haven't vibrated loose. This is fairly normal and can be helped by using Loctite # LT37643. view full answer...
This sounds like a ground issue. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light. Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.
The light grounds should also be attached to clean and corrosion free bare... view full answer...
Since this is the first time you have used the connector on your 4Runner, if it has been awhile since it was installed or if it is factory then there can be some corrosion build up inside the connector preventing it from working. This happened to a friend of mine recently. Scraping out the corrosion will help. Also make sure the main ground is connected to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface.
If that does not help then use a circuit tester such as # PTW2991 to test the vehicle... view full answer...
I know you said you checked the fuses, but on your 1999 Ford F-250, the Power Distribution Box and Trailer Tow Relay Blocks are located in the engine compartment near the brake master cylinder, not to be confused with the Fuse Panel located below and to the left of the steering wheel.
There is only one fuse that is tied to your trailer running lights inside the Fuse Panel:
Fuse Location 28 - 10 amp - Brake Shift Interlock, DRL Relay Coil, Speed Control Module, Backup Lamps, Trailer Tow... view full answer...
The indicator light on the controller should be green when a trailer is connected to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle. When the brakes are applied the light should turn red. If the black wire from the POD is not connected to constant 12 Volt power the indicator light will flicker. The Reese Pod brake controller should be connected as follows.
White - Ground
Black - 12 Volt Constant Power
Red - Cold Side of the Brake Pedal Switch
Blue - Trailer Brake feed to Trailer Brakes
If... view full answer...
The Hopkins Multi-Tow 7-Way Blade and 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector # HM43374 referenced in your question is confirmed to fit your 2004 Toyota 4Runner as long as it is equipped with the factory tow package. Since the trailer lights work fine when connected to your wife's vehicle, the issue certainly seems to be on the vehicle side of your 4Runner.
I recommend testing the wires just behind the connector with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If you are receiving power at the wires, then... view full answer...
There could be a short to the blue wire or you could also have the red wire attached to the wrong circuit. First check the red wire with a circuit tester like # PTW2993 if needed. If it is showing power without pressing the pedal, then you know it is connected to the wrong brake switch wire.
Use the tester to test the wires on the brake switch. You want the one that only shows power when you step on the brake pedal. If the wire you find also shows power with the head lights or turn signals... view full answer...
If your Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 brake controller is showing "n.c" that means there is a connection issue. A ground issue is often the problem with what you are describing, though you did say you checked that. Just to be on the safe side I strongly recommend intricately ensuring all grounds are good so you can be sure that isn't the issue.
The other most likely issue, since you mentioned you checked all of your wiring, is an issue with your connectors. Often, corrosion or dirt may... view full answer...
We have never encountered a case of a 4Runner needing a diode in order to use the Redarc Tow-Pro Liberty # RED24FR. If you suspect voltage is low you could always go in and test with a volt meter.
The Redarc Encapsulated Power Diode # RED34FR is generally only needed on vehicles with certain advanced safety systems like the Adaptive Cruise Control, Assisted Emergency Braking and Autonomous Emergency Braking. Since you are using the plug-and-play pigtail # RED49FR you should not need any... view full answer...
A weight distribution system is not designed to accommodate the space needed for a swivel jack, since typically A-frame jacks are used on A-frame trailers. If the swivel jack and weight distribution system are not working together, you will want to move the swivel jack to provide the necessary room for the weight distribution system.
Another option is to replace the swivel jack with an a-frame trailer jack. We offer several A-frame jacks with wheels already attached and many other a-frame... view full answer...
The problem with your running light fuse blowing as soon as you turn on the 4Runner headlights could be caused by any of several problems.
One possibility is that the wiring harness you have on the 4Runner does not have the required current capacity for all of the lights connected to the running light circuit. We offer two 4-pole harnesses for your vehicle; part # 118341 and the higher-current-output Curt harness # C55341. If you recently added extra lights to that circuit, then that could... view full answer...
The best I can do is give you general troubleshooting if your lights are not working, but I've never heard of a trailer not being compatible with a vehicle, as that doesn't make a whole lot of sense, though admittedly I could be missing something. That said, for some general troubleshooting, the first thing to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order. If they are, in order to determine the specific... view full answer...
Regarding the ground, if the fire wall is painted, that could be causing a bad ground issue. Just make sure it is on a bare metal surface. You can also check to make sure both the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion and that the connectors are properly grounded.
Next, I would unplug the brake controller and test the vehicle wiring using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 or a multimeter like # PT89ZR. Test the wiring for voltage when you step on the brake... view full answer...
Are you using the # 3041-P adapter? It's the correct one for your 2018 Toyota 4Runner. Test the connector under the 4Runner's dashboard with a circuit tester, like part #PTW2992, to test for power. If there's no power start by checking the fuses.
If there's power at the plug reconnect the harness to the vehicle and test the pins on the other side of the harness. Check the pins at all the connectors and make sure none are bent. They're fairly thin so they get bent pretty easily. They... view full answer...
The trailer running lights use a single dedicated circuit from the connector on your 4Runner so if just the right side running lights aren't working then we know the problem is somewhere on the trailer, and not the tow vehicle.
The fact that only the right side on the trailer isn't working actually helps to narrow down the potential cause quite a bit, as the fault could really only be with the tail light itself (which works fine for the brake/turn so we can rule that out) or with the... view full answer...
If your trailer turn signals and brake lights work but stop working when your running lights are on the most common cause is a bad ground connection. An insufficient ground connection may allow enough current to pass through to operate the brake and turn lights, which are on intermittently, but not enough for the running lights which draw power continuously.
The particular harness you are using on your 1999 Toyota 4Runner, Tow Ready # 118341, is rated for stop/turn lights that draw up... view full answer...
The OC you are seeing on the Hayes Engage Trailer Brake Controller # HA81760 is saying you have an open circuit. Specifically it indicates there is no trailer connection detected or the controller is connected to a trailer with electric over hydraulic brakes. Since you have not connected the trailer it will flash for a few minutes or until a trailer is connected. There is nothing wrong with the controller and it is acting as it should. view full answer...
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