If you already have a 7-way connector on your 2004 Tundra, then you would simply plug in the trailer. If you have the 7-way and the trailer is a different compatibility, you can use adapter # HM47570.
If you have the factory connections but are missing the trailer connector, then you would use the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness for Factory Tow Package - 7-Way and 4-Flat Connectors # HM43385 or the Replacement Multi-Plug 7-Way and 4 Pole Trailer Connector # 20137. Both... view full answer...
The only fuse of the Curt trailer wiring kit part # C55738 is in the red fuse holder you referenced. Most likely if your fuse is good but it's still not working the problem is the converter box. You can test this with a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If there is voltage on the input side of the box when taillight circuits are applied but none on output side the converter box is fried and is in need of replacing the entire kit since they are not available separately. view full answer...
I would start by inspecting the connector on your trailer and the vehicle to make sure there is not corrosion in the connector which could be causing a bad or weak connection. If there is corrosion in the trailer side connector, you would need to replace it with 7-way Connector, part # A7WCB. For the replacement vehicle side connector, you would need Adapter 4 Pole to 7 Pole, part # 30717. For future use, I would recommend using Dielectric Grease for Electrical Connectors, part # 11755,... view full answer...
From what you describe, it sounds like your P2 is working correctly. You would only see the two LED dots or decimal points if the Boost feature of the brake controller is engaged. NC means no connection, which is what the display will show unless a trailer is plugged in. The blips you describe are the test voltage the controller sends along the output circuit that check to see if a trailer is plugged in. If you used a volt meter on that blue wire, you would find that the voltage sent on... view full answer...
I would be happy to help you troubleshoot the problems you are having with the Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller item # TK90160. You will first want to check your Tundra's 7-way connector for debris, corrosion, and any faulty wiring connected to it. Afterwards check your trailer's 7-way for the same thing. If you're still getting a N.C. code on your controller I recommend verifying the brake controller wire has been properly connected and there isn't any damage or faults between... view full answer...
The Tekonsha P-3 Brake Controller, # 90195, will go into sleep mode after 15 minutes without use. If you press your brake pedal, then the brake controller display should activate.
The first thing I would check would be your ground connection. Toyota vehicles do not have the best availability for a good ground connection. You can run a temporary wire from the white ground wire to the negative terminal on the battery to test if the ground location was bad, or if there may be a problem with... view full answer...
It sounds like you have the trailer connector on your 2005 Toyota Tundra or trailer wired incorrectly, or there is a short from the 12 volt accessory circuit to your brake output circuit and that is causing your trailer brakes to lock up.
The first thing I would do is check the back of the connectors on your vehicle and your trailer and see if there is any obvious things that could cause the short. Next, I would check that the 7-way on your trailer is wired correctly. Check out the picture... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Reese and he said that what you described is normal when the system is new.
The reason for this is due to the variations in A-frame trailer proportions. The inside edge of the cam will wear-in over time so that it sits flush and the arms won't stick out as far. view full answer...
The brake output circuit of your 2008 Toyota Tundra should not have 12 volts without the brake pedal pressed or the manual override of the controller slide. This would indicate that either the brake controller is bad or you have a short on your trailer connector wiring.
I would first check the back of the connector for corrosion or exposed wire and fix as necessary. The 12 volt accessory circuit may be shorting out to the brake output circuit. If that doesn't fix the problem you will need... view full answer...
We have heard of this issue before with the Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller # 90195. What Tekonsha has told us is that to remedy the lack of a display you will need to reset the brake controller. To do this you will need to unplug the trailer, and then unplug the harness from the controller and wait about 30 seconds or so. After plugging it back in the display should return. view full answer...
This sounds like a ground issue or a potential overload situation. Ground problems normally show up when there is more draw on a system such as when you have the running lights on and then use another function like a turn signal or brake light. And overload could be the result of a short or too many lights on a trailer.
Make sure that the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion... view full answer...
Troubleshooting a "short" reading from the Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 actually isn't that uncommon and that code in and of itself is a lifesaver because it informs you that something is going on with the connection from the brake controller to your trailer brakes.
Since you've had the trailer side tested this means that the issue lies with your tow vehicle wiring. If your Pigtail Adapter # 3040-P shows constant power on the black wire and then power on the red wire when the brake pedal... view full answer...
It sounds as if the ground wire for the brake controller is not making a good connection. I would try finding a good ground location to connect the extra ground wire that is installed on the brake controller wiring harness, # 3040-P.
This harness requires the additional ground wire because the Toyota vehicles it works with have weak ground systems and need the extra help. When you are testing with the test light, the brake controller is sensing a completed circuit and the amperage draw... view full answer...
If the issue is only with your trailer's brake and turn signals when connected to your 2010 Toyota Tundra and not other vehicles and you are absolutely sure the ground is good, then there are a couple of things you will want to check. Start by using a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the signals going into your Tundra's connector to ensure they are all working properly. There may be an issue such as loose, crimped, or otherwise damaged wires and fix as needed.
Also check your Tundra's... view full answer...
Seems like you have the Firestone Ride-Rite Air Helper Springs # F2245. There are a couple things that could be causing the leak. Best case, is that the threaded NPT fittings are leaking. All you would need to do is take them out and apply more Loctite Thread Sealant # LT37482. If that doesn't solve your problem and/or you want to cover all your bases while you have it apart, I would recommend getting new lines and fittings # F2012.
If none of this solves your problem then it's time to... view full answer...
Sounds like the electric jack has a bad ground short.
First check to see if your jack has an inline fuse on the power wire. You may have had a loose power wire making contact with the trailer frame and made the spark that you saw. This would have most likely blown the fuse if one is installed. Change the fuse if installed and then inspect the wiring for any loose or frayed wires. Using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 can help track down any wiring issues you might have on the jack.
If... view full answer...
It sounds like your trailer has a wishbone wiring setup that uses a separate running lights circuit wire (brown) on each side of the trailer. In terms of standard trailer wiring colors it appears that you have wired the new 4-Way correctly, the issue might be that your trailer simply doesn't use standard wire colors for its lights.
This can happen on older trailers that have maybe had a couple owners or even new ones that were the victim of some "creative" wiring at the factory. Determining... view full answer...
Since the brake light and turn signal are still functioning, just are dim, it does sound like a connection issue. I recommend checking the ground for corrosion or rust and just cleaning it up and if that doesn't solve your issue, then put a circuit tester like # PTW2993 on it. The incandescent bulb in the tester should show a difference, so if it does or doesn't you have isolated which wiring needs to be checked for a short and replaced. Normally light wiring is # 16-1-1 wire. view full answer...
This can be caused by a few things. First and foremost, you will need to check a couple fuses to make sure they are still in good condition. Under the hood of your 2018 Toyota Tundra, you will want to check the fuses in positions 6 and 37. Then you will need to check the cluster under the instrument panel for fuses 20 and 22. These can be confirmed in your owner's manual, but these are responsible for the towing lights. If one or more have blown, it will definitely cause the issue you are... view full answer...
While it's true that the yellow and green wires usually carry the stop/turn signals, it's important to note these are for the light circuits and not the trailer brake function. If your trailer brakes are activating when you use your turn signals this means you either have the brake output linked up to your turn signals on your 2007 Toyota Tundra or you have the brake output connected to your stop/turn signal circuit on your trailer.
If you're using a 7-Way with factory plug ins like the... view full answer...