Troubleshooting Brake Controller Installations
Common Brake Control Issues
Problem
Possible Issues
Testing Procedures
Short on brake signal wire, trailer or vehicle side. Corrosion in trailer and/or vehicle plug. Short on brake magnets on trailer. Malfunctioning brake magnet(s).
Method 1 Method 2 Method 3 Method 4
Ground wire was not connected to negative battery terminal, ground area does not have solid connection to ground. Adapter wiring does not match OEM connector on vehicle. Ground connection to negative battery terminal is loose. Ground wire has been damaged and exposed wiring is touching a metal area.
Connect ground wire to negative battery terminal. Method 1 Method 3
Brake assemblies are not properly adjusted. Boost/Gain on brake controller is set too high for trailer size.
Adjust brakes properly (see video). See brake control owner's manual for proper boost/gain settings for trailer size.
Incorrect stoplight wire connection. Adapter wiring layout does not match OEM connector on vehicle.
Method 1 Method 2
Trailer has too many brakes for brake controller to handle. Corrosion in trailer and/or vehicle plug. Brake signal wire on trailer is damaged, exposed wiring is touching metal area or another circuit. Malfunctioning brake magnet(s).
Check brake control owner's manual for limit on number of trailer brakes. Method 1 Method 3 Method 4
Short to battery on 12V wire connection. Short on brake signal wire, trailer or vehicle side Corrosion in trailer and/or vehicle plug. 12V wire was not connected to vehicle battery, 12V source used is not constant.
Method 2 Method 3 Connect 12V wire to positive battery terminal.
Corrosion in trailer and/or vehicle plug. Brake signal wire on trailer or vehicle is damaged, exposed wiring is touching metal area.
Method 3
Incorrect stoplight wire connection. Corrosion in trailer and/or vehicle plug. Adapter wiring does not match OEM connector on vehicle.
Method 1 Method 3
Connection to battery is not complete. Vehicle is missing a fuse or relay required to power 12V power circuit. Adapter wiring layout does not match OEM connector on vehicle.
Method 1 Check fuse block for missing fuse/relay. See vehicle-specific FAQ if available, or check owner's manual.
Basic Testing Procedures
Method 1: Verifying Correct Wire Connections (Hard Wire Installs)
Make sure that each wire is connected in the correct location. Standard wire colors are listed, but check connections by function if colors vary. 
Verify that the white brake controller wire (ground function) is connected to the negative battery terminal. Verify that the black brake controller wire (12V power function) is connected to the positive battery terminal with a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker installed in line. For trailers with 2-4 brakes, use a 20 amp breaker and for trailers with 6-8 brakes, use a 30 amp breaker. Use a 12V probe-style circuit tester to verify the stoplight wire (red) connection (Figure 1). Click here to see our circuit testers. The tester should show power when the brake pedal is pressed, and should not show power when the pedal is released. If all connections are correct, proceed to Method 2.
Method 1: Verifying Correct Wire Connections (Plug-in Installs)
Use a 12V probe-style circuit tester to verify that power is present at OEM connector. You should be able to get a solid power reading on one pin/slot, a reading on a second pin/slot only when the brake pedal is pressed, and at least two other pins with no power present. Verify that the pin/slot layout of the wiring adapter you are using matches the layout in the OEM connector. The two plugs should be mirror images. Check the part number on the adapter and make sure it is the same as the listed fit for your vehicle. If all connections are correct, proceed to Method 2.
Method 2: Testing for the Brake Signal
Use a 12V probe-style circuit tester to verify that power is present on the blue wire behind the brake controller when you use the manual control (Figure 2). If no power is present, the brake controller may be malfunctioning and require replacement. See video for reference. Without the trailer plugged in, use a circuit tester to verify that power is present at the vehicle 7-Way when the brake pedal is pressed or the manual control is used. The electric brake pin should be in the 5 o'clock position. If no power is present, proceed to Method 3. With the trailer connected, check for power on the electric brake wire coming out of the trailer's 7-Way plug. You can repeat the test on this wire, moving further back toward the magnets each time. If power stops, look for a short or ground issue (Method 3).
Method 3: Looking for a Short or Ground Issue
If controller was hard wired (controller wires were spliced - no plug used to connect to OEM brake controller wiring), verify that the white ground wire is attached to the negative battery terminal on the vehicle. Check along any wiring that was run from front to back on the vehicle and look for spots that have been nicked, pinched, or rubbed and have copper wire showing through the jacketing. Wrap any damaged areas with electrical tape. Inspect the trailer wiring that runs from the trailer plug, again looking for any damaged spots (Figure 3). Wrap any damaged areas with electrical tape or replace the wire section, if the damage is great enough. Look inside the front and back sides of the vehicle and trailer plugs to determine if any white or green corrosion has accumulated over time. If you see any corrosion, you will need to either thoroughly clean the plug or replace it. A wire brush works best for cleaning. Check the wires on the trailer brake magnets. Each magnet should have two wires: one for power, and one for ground. Make sure that the ground wire is attached to a clean metal area without any paint or corrosion. The power wire should be intact and have a solid connection to the electric brake signal wire. It does not matter which wire does what, just that one wire is powered and the other is grounded.
Method 4: Inspecting the Brake Assemblies
Visually inspect brake magnets for excessive wear. If the magnets have heavy grooving, are worn unevenly, or the internal windings are visible, replace the magnet. See Trailer Hub Brake Magnet Replacement Demonstration for reference. If magnets are not visibly worn, refer to Testing Trailer Brake Magnets for Proper Function. Test each magnet for general function, for a short, and for proper resistance. You will need a 12V battery and a multimeter to complete the testing. Ensure that the brake assemblies are properly adjusted. The brake shoes should be adjusted out until you cannot turn the wheel by hand. You would then back off the adjuster 8-10 clicks, or until you feel the wheel has a slight drag as you turn it by hand. Refer to This Old Trailer: Electric Trailer Brake Installation Part 1.
For more information, see:
Vehicle-specific FAQ articles, if available. Trailer Brake Controller Information Brake Controller Installation: Starting from Scratch Brake Controller 7- and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7)
Mike L.
8/1/2023
@JohnH The 'OL' error code indicates an overload condition. There are several possible reasons for the error message you're seeing. It could be a short in one or more of your brake assembly magnets, the brake circuit wire could have rubbed the insulation bare from rubbing on the trailer frame or maybe a corroded trailer connector. Check the vehicle socket and the trailer plug for signs or corrosion or trapped foreign material. Any of these conditions could allow the brake circuit to inadvertently connect to another and that could cause the OL code. There are several potential causes for this OL error message. These include a short in one or more of your brake assemblies' magnets, the brake circuit wire rubbing on the trailer frame or even just a corroded trailer connector. Check the vehicle socket and the trailer plug for signs or corrosion or trapped foreign material. Either of these conditions could allow the brake circuit to cross over to an adjacent circuit that could cause the OL code. Check that out, and let us know what you find!
Steven
6/15/2023
I just connected my Curt 51110 to my 2013 Toyota Tacoma and the display is so dim, it’s almost impossible to read. Any ideas on why this could be?
Roy
5/8/2023
My brake controller reads no camper, but if I push over the sliding switch on the controller, the brake lights on the truck and the camper light up, but the brakes do not activate.
Jason
6/7/2023
@Roy I’m having the same issue with my 06 Ram 2500. I’ve got power to the plug, brake lights come on the trailer and truck, but no brakes are applied to the trailer.
Mike L.
6/9/2023
@Jason Whether you have a proportional or time delayed controller, you should get output to the trailer brakes with the manual switch on the controller. @Roy mentions that the controller isn't reading the trailer brakes. Is this the same issue you're having? If so, a dirty/damaged trailer connector on the vehicle or the trailer side or worn brake magnets can cause this. Other possible culprits include a loose or damaged brake output circuit or worn brake magnets. To check the magnets, pull one of the hubs and check the face of the magnet that rides against the inside of the drum. If you can see the copper wiring showing through the magnet, the magnet is worn to the point where it needs replacing.
Jason
6/9/2023
@MikeL I pulled the trailer out to SD from FL, 1800 miles, with no issue. That was in February. I left SD last week with intermittent brakes, so I figured it was a bad ground in the truck. It’s happened in the past and was an easy fix. I stopped multiple times during my trip to check the truck and trailer for any loose or exposed wiring. I could not find any. I even replaced the 30amp fuse in the power module, which only fixed the problem temporarily.
When I got to FL, I tested the wires from the controller all the way to the 7 blade connector and have a good connection.
The controller is proportional and made by Reese. When I was testing the wires, the controller only displayed a red dot. I tested at the lowest and highest gain, the tester showed a change as the gain increased at both the box and at the plug.
The trailer is a tandem axle, enclosed trailer with a dry weight of 5500 pounds and I was hauling about another 3000 pounds.
Could the controller have gone bad? Is there a definitive test to determine this?
K C.
5/18/2022
My trailer break controller does not disengage when I initially stop pressing the break pedal. If I tap the pedal after initially releasing the break pedal it disengages?
David B.
5/18/2022
Sounds like an issue with your stop light switch. Check out the link below it will help you troubleshoot the issue at hand. If you have any other questions let me know, I'll try to let the sunshine on the issue.
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Dennis E.
10/1/2023
MY prodigy works great andei am able to adjust it for fine tune regarding weight HOWEVER OCCASIONALLY the brakes grab to sometimes skid on the first application of the pickup brake pedal. If I tap pedal lightly when I know I need brakes it doesn't grab on second depression of pedal. It's maddening and dangerous