I'd start by making sure that your 7 way didn't get disconnected from the US car connector it's plugged into. If a fuse was blown, it would normally only effect the circuit that it's tied to, so I don't believe that would be the cause of your issue. For everything to completely shut off would lead me to believe that something has either become loose or disconnected completely.
If that isn't the case, it might be possible that something overloaded the 7 way connector and fried it. You... view full answer...
It is unlikely the LED on the # TLL52FB actually went out, which only leaves a power or ground issue. Go ahead and check for power using a circuit tester like the # PTW2993. If you have power to the light then I would double check the ground. Make sure it is secure on a clean, bare-metal surface. If both of these things check out then the only thing that left is the light itself. Optronics has a lifetime warranty on their LEDs so I would contact them to see about a replacement. view full answer...
Sometimes the powdercoat in a hitch opening like what the Stromberg Carlson part # CC-275 can be a bit too thick for accessories to fit into. I had a similar situation with a new hitch I installed on my Tahoe. What I had to do was file down the powdercoat a bit to allow it to fit well. view full answer...
You're needing a Roadmaster Brake-Lite Relay Kit for Towed Vehicles # RM-88400 to prevent your 2016 Ram 1500's brake signal from overriding the turn signal that comes from your RV. When your towed vehicle is properly wired and connected to your RV, its indicator lights will illuminate as you engage the turn signals in your RV. However, if you have only a four-diode system in place, the turn signal will be overridden by your towed car's brake signal as soon as your supplemental braking system... view full answer...
It sounds like you may have a problem on the trailer side. You can do a process of elimination by testing the 7 pole plug on your 2016 Ram 1500. You need a regular test light, make sure it is not LED, have someone apply the brakes and test the brake output pin in the plug and power wire. If you are getting power then it's not the truck or the controller it is the trailer. You can also test your trailer on another vehicle.
Check your power and ground wires going back to your brakes. Make... view full answer...
From your description it appears you do not have continuity from the batteries 12v supply to the pin for lighting. This may be due to a fuse or absence of that pin connected on your Ram where it is/was on the Chevy. Please see the attached wiring diagrams for assistance in trouble shooting and start with ensuring the pin for lighting on trailer is hot on the vehicle side.
When referencing the 7-Way RV Plug diagram that I have attached, make sure you are looking at the plug the way the... view full answer...
Unfortunately we do not have a wiring diagram for the Fan-Tastic Vent Roof Vent w/ 12V Fan - Manual Lift - 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" # FV801200 but we do offer the Fan-Tastic Vent Roof Vent Assembly Upgrade Kit - Clamp-on - Power Lift - 14-1/4"x14-1/4" # FV807357 which will clamp onto your current vent and basically replace the internal components and give you a new powered fan without having the remove the body of the vent. view full answer...
First, make sure you are using the proper wiring harness for your 2015 Ram 1500 and Curt brake controller. You should be using # C51438.
Next, check the stop light/CHMSL fuses on the truck. On a newer truck it is unlikely that fuses would be blown or missing but its easy enough to check.
When a brake controller is not working with the brake pedal it usually means there is an issue on the red wire. With the brake controller plugged in and the fuses good though the only other thing it could... view full answer...
It sounds like the remote and manifold on your Air Lift WirelessONE part # AL25980 have been somehow disconnected from one another. If this is the case then I recommend first changing the battery in the remote and then checking all the power and grounds to make sure they are secured and in woking order. Once this is done you will then need to resync the remote to the manifold which can be done by following page 12 in the instructions manual which I have attached for you.
If any of the... view full answer...
If your trailer's turn and brake lights work properly but the running/tail lights do not this usually indicates a ground problem on the trailer or vehicle wiring harnesses.
If there is a weak ground connection at either the vehicle or trailer the wiring may be able to deliver enough power to operate functions like turn and brake lights (which do not remain on continuously) but not be able to deliver the higher current required by tail lights, which remain on continuously.
First check... view full answer...
When testing the voltage at the 5 o'clock position on your 7 Way with something like the # PTW2979 and your brake controller turned up to its maximum, you should be seeing 12 volts. However, this is what we have found with the aftermarket brake controllers we carry, like the Tekonsha P3 # 90195 as an example, and this may vary slightly with a factory OEM brake controller. With that being said, trailers in the US are all designed and built to run a 12 volt system, so this should also run... view full answer...
Let me start off by saying that if you are trying to use an Electric Over Hydraulic (EOH) system with an OEM brake controller, that might be the issue in and of itself. Although it would be good to go ahead and do the following troubleshooting tips, if this is the first time you've tried to use it with an EOH system, it might just be that the brake controller is not compatible and you will need a new brake controller that is compatible with an EOH system, like the Prodigy P3 # 90195. A... view full answer...
Looks like you overtightened the nutsert which stripped it out and rendered it unusable.
You would need to order the part # BKT43301 and be careful not to strip out the new nutsert. view full answer...
It sounds as if you've blown a fuse.
Check fuse in location F29 in the fuse panel in the engine compartment, and replace as needed. Before plugging the trailer back in, you'll want to locate the short in the running lamp circuit on the trailer that caused the fuse to blow. Take a good look at the running lamp circuit to find the short, and repair it otherwise, you'll continue to blow fuses.
To repair the short, you can use # 16-1-1 to graft in a new piece of wire as needed the wire is... view full answer...
You did well with your initial troubleshooting, and though we don't have any experience with OEM brake controllers I can still give you some tips on steps you can take to try and remedy the situation. We know it's not going to be the brakes and it is unlikely to be the wiring on the trailer, so we can narrow it down some.
You will need to find out if the issue is on the brake controller or elsewhere, such as the connector. To test the brake controller, sever the blue wire a couple inches... view full answer...
It sounds like you have done everything possible on the tow vehicle side to reduce the up-and-down porpoising you noted, so I suggest checking out the trailer's suspension. Leaf springs do wear out and lose their weight-carrying capacity and this can lead to more motion from the overall system than with new springs. Also items like shackle straps can wear, their round holes becoming enlarged and/or egg-shaped. If many components in a trailer suspension are worn you can end up with excessive... view full answer...
When testing the blind spot detection function of your Cub # CU22XR are you driving at speeds exceed 12mph or is the vehicle sitting and you're trying to test this function? if the vehicle isn't moving at speeds 12mph and up then the sensors will not activate. Other than just resetting the unit the only thing you can really do is make sure that are the connections are correct and fully in place. I recommend reaching out to Cub to see if maybe you just got a defective sensor and if they... view full answer...
The instructions for the # PAL8350 list two options for wiring colors in the larger wiring harness in the driver side kick panel. The first is the Tan/White stripe and Tan/Green stripe that you mentioned. The second option is Orange/Grey stripe and Lime Green.
After connecting the wires, make sure to test the power lock by locking and unlocking the power door locks. If the power lock is in reversed order to the vehicle power lock, then reverse the two wires.
I have attached an installation... view full answer...
In order to determine the specific problem, you will need to use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the connector on your Ram after disconnecting it from your trailer. Check the wiring going into your harness from your taillights to see if those wires are carrying the correct signals, if not then the issue is with the vehicle wiring.
If the signals going to your harness are okay, you'll need to test the signals coming out of the harness, and if they are correct then your issue... view full answer...
For your Prodigy P3 brake controller # 90195 I highly recommend mounting it so you can ensure it isn't recalibrating every time you move it. It has an internal inertia sensor that is likely causing the change in output as it is adjusting for your movement of the device as well as the deceleration of your braking. It is a proportional controller so the braking power output from your pedal will change based on the driving speed and braking pressure you apply each time. view full answer...
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