To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.
Use your towed car's signal lights without tapping into its wiring. This self-contained wiring kit bypasses your Honda CR-V's electrical system, eliminating any concerns over violating the manufacturer's warranty.
Features:
Note: Towed car must have enough room inside the tail light lens housing for an extra bulb and socket.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2010 Honda CR-V, we'll be taking a look at and installing the Roadmaster tail light wiring kit with bulbs, part number RM-155. First thing we'll need to do in our installation of our Roadmaster tail light kit with bulbs is go ahead and open up our rear hatch to gain access to our tail light assemblies. Then, we will remove the caps located here and here on both sides. To remove the tail lights, use a small screwdriver to stick in the slot and pop it out. Once you've popped out both the caps, repeat that same process on the passenger side. Anything we do here on the driver side, as far as the removal and re-installation of the tail lights, is going to be repeated on that passenger side. All right. Now, we're going to remove the two bolts on the inside.
It's either going to be an eight millimeter or a Phillips-head screwdriver, if you have one. We're gently going to pull out. Once we have the bottom loose, we'll bring that top around. With our tail light now out, we're just going to use a little stool to support it, while we mark all of our wires. You can see that we have all of our lines marked starting at the top, and we just did, "Top #1," and labeled it down from there, through four.
We'll twist and pull out on the bulbs, removing the lines as we go, all the way down to the bottom. Once you have all the bulbs removed, we'll set the tail light off to the side. Where we're going to drill the hole is going to be right above the light that's right above the notch. That's going to be in this light here. You'll see this nice little area right here on the side of it. We're going to drill in right there using that one-inch hole saw.
If you come down, you'll see there's going to be a point there. Go right in there. This is the other side here. Now, we're going to take our one-inch hole saw and since we already center-punched our little hole there, we'll line it up and drill through. Try and keep it pointed down, so we don't get anything on the inside of our tail light assembly. Once we have it through, we'll shake it out and we'll even take our vacuum and vacuum it out, any kind of dust that's on the inside of there, that way we can make sure we don't have any residue built up in there. This is going to be our driver side and you can see how it's going to be done, like so, meeting up right in that area and looking really clean.
Now, we'll drill out our passenger side. We'll go ahead and prep our bulbs to be placed inside the holes. Here's our bulbs that we're going to insert, our bulbs and socket. We're going to place it into the hole and if it jiggles around a little bit, we'll need to make some adjustments by using the little tabs here on the side until we get a nice, snug fit. We'll take a small screwdriver and bend those tabs back all the way around until we get a nice, snug fit inside the hole. Once we have a nice, snug fit with no jiggle, we'll take some black RTV or black silicone and seal it up so no moisture gets inside. Now that we have the driver side done here, we'll repeat that same process on the passenger side. We're going to go ahead and take our 30 foot of four-pole wiring and cut off one end. The end that we're cutting off is going to go towards the back of the vehicle to wire into the tail lights that we just hooked up. This will make it easier to run the wires back to the back without having the four-pole connection on it, that way we can run it through the frame or around any obstacles that we may need to, keeping it away from any sharp objects, any hot objects, such as the exhaust, or anywhere where it can get pinched or frayed. Onto our wiring for our four-pole, we started the wiring by bringing it down through the engine compartment and around the grill and radiator in the front, coming down right where we're going to hook it up to our seven-pole connector for our tow bar that's getting hooked up to the vehicle. You see, it runs back behind the grill and then up and around the engine compartment here. I left the tabs on here so I could show you exactly where it was. Now that you see it, we'll go ahead and cut it off. With the tails removed, the wire then goes down along the back of the firewall, down past the independent front suspension, and then, goes along the frame to the back. We'll go underneath and show you that now. This is going to be where it comes down off the back of the firewall, underneath the brake lines, and then, we're going to follow those brake lines along the back. We'll snip off those tails as we go along, then, through the cover, and along the back. It's suggested that you have a pull wire 05:46 here, maybe an extra piece of air tube or something solid like a coat hanger, that way you can pull through the wire down to the backside through things like this, without having to remove them. It'll be helpful when we get to the back. From the backside of the fuel tank, it's ran up to the side and then, hooked to the brake line. From there, we attached it to the fuel tank line, that way we know it isn't going to be near anything that's going to be a moving part. Going over the top of the independent rear end and along the side of the spare tire well. We're just separating our yellow wire from our green and brown wire over to the passenger side, making it easier to make that connection. Then, we'll connect our green, white, and brown to our whole wire, which is an extra piece of air hose. We'll set it back across the back of the bumper and pull it back up into the passenger side. You'll be able to see up into the gap; it goes up into the tail light assembly. Making sure that it goes over the top of the exhaust, so it's not near any heat, so our wires don't get melted . All right. Once we have our wire pulled up, we'll go ahead and make our connections to our bulb and assembly and cut the brown and white. Now, we'll strip the ends of our bulbs that we put in. Once we have those stripped, we'll cut our green wire to length. We'll strip off the three wires that we have over here and give them a little twist. We're going to crimp on our jumper cable, so brown to brown, put our yellow butt connector on and crimp them down. Once you have it crimped on, we'll do the white next. We can put our butt connector on the green side and that's just going to connect to our red wire on our new bulb and socket set. Run down your extra brown to white wire that we're using as that jumper. With our wires with the butt connectors on them, we'll grab our passenger side tail light assembly and start making our connections. All right. With our tail light in-hand, our brown wire is going to go to the brown, so, we'll get the easy one out of the way first. Go ahead and crimp it down. Black is going to go to white, and red to green. Once we have all of our connections made, we'll tape off our wires. All right. With our wires in place, we'll reattach our factory bulbs. We'll look at our tape that we put in there, figure out which one goes where, and make those connections. Press them in and rotate them. Now, we can put our passenger side tail light assembly back in place. With the bulbs back in place and our tail light assembly secure, we'll place in our caps. We'll pull our brown wire and our white wire back across to the driver side, going back across the backside of the bumper. With our pull wire, pull our extra wires up to the top, making sure that we don't get hooked on anything on the bottom side and that our wires are tight. Go ahead and give ourselves a little bit of room and cut off our extra wire. Go ahead and strip the ends back. We're going to cut off about an eight-inch piece of wire that we're going to use for our ground piece. Go ahead and strip both ends. Then, we'll add a ring terminal on the one side. With the ring terminal added, we're going to add that to our white wire. Crimp it down. Now, with the other two, we'll put on our butt connectors and hook up our wires. We'll first need to strip back our driver side tail lamp. Once we have those stripped back, remember, white goes to black, brown goes to brown, and red goes to yellow. Once we get all these crimped down, go ahead and tape them off like we did on the other side. Now, all we have left to do is attach our ground wire. We'll go ahead and take our self-tapper that was included and we're just going to connect it down here on this bottom side. We'll connect our factory tail light bulbs in the order that we labeled them. Once you have it all reconnected, we'll put our tail light assembly back in place, line up our alignment tabs, and press in. Once it clicks in place, we'll then be able to return our screws to the backside. With our driver side tail light re-installed, we'll now check our lights. I'll attach our four-pole to our camper, RV, or four-pole relay 12:05. Go ahead and test out our tail lights, brake lights, right turn signal, and our left turn signal. We're good! That will do it for our review and installation of the Roadmaster tail light wiring kit with bulbs, part number RN-155, on our 2010 Honda CR-V.
Average Customer Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars (247 Customer Reviews)
Use your towed car's signal lights without tapping into its wiring. This self-contained wiring kit bypasses your vehicle's electrical system, eliminating any concerns over violating the manufacturer's warranty.Always completely satisfied with Etrailer service and products! Jamie B is very knowledgable and courteous!
This was a good option for our 2020 Chevy Equinox because it does not tie into the tow vehicle electrical system and runs directly from the Motorhome electrical system.
Went pretty easy. Holes for bulbs do fit in the rear lights. I had to use a 6way plug that had a 4way line on it also.
Put this into a 2002 Jeep Liberty. Good directions. Drilled out the lower part of tail light housing and install bulb sockets into it. You may have to deburr the tail light housing a bit and manipulate the tangs on the bulb socket but is fine. I put in 1157 LED bulbs :) Good stuff!
This product was easy to install but it took some time routing the wiring harness from the front bumper to the rear. Pick up some extra zip ties, you will need several. The lighting system is independent allowing for the use of LED bulbs. Great product.
easy install one year later still working perfectly
it worked well
very well made and packaged
Great customer service fast delivery and reasonable price. Been purchasing from ETrailer for years
Found this item was wired with the brake lights for the brown wires and turn/running lights for colored wires and this fact kept me from getting this done very rapidly. Once identified, went together really nicely and actually grounded to frame for higher light output. I upgraded 3 wire into 2 wire converter with "Roadmaster Brite-lite 3 to 2 Wiring Converter" and they are as bright as the lights already in the housing. Except for that wiring issue, it would have been excellent. As to performance after install, great. Customer service was nice from Roadmaster as well. Did receive a call back message from etrailer a couple days later.
I purchased a Blue Ox base plate, Air Force One braking system, and a light kit for my 2013 Durango. I could have not asked for an easier process with selecting and ordering, also the tutorials and videos were a great help in determining what was the best system for me . Everything arrived as planned and in great condition. This is not my first time using etrailer.com and my prior experience was equally good.
Ken G.
10/23/2017
After using the items I reviewed, about 6,000 miles, I am more than satisfied. The towing setup is easy to hook up and unhook and the braking system is second to none. All of the installation was completed by myself and a friend, both of us have a technical background him more than me and we found the videos of the installation extremely helpful.Thank you for following up and providing excellent products as well as support services.
great kit i have installed them before
I like this product and would definitely buy it again. I like not having to splice into the vehicle wiring and install diodes, etc. It is a clean installation with good instructions. All I have to do to hook up the lights is raise the hood of the towed car and pull out the pigtail and hook it to the motorhome. It is powered by the motorhome and does not run down the battery in the towed car. Great product.
Gary Y.
8/19/2017
Works great! Would definitely recommend it.
Great idea. After years of towing with magnetic lights now all I have to do is plug it in, and I'm done.
The kit kit comes with more parts and wire than I needed and was simple to install on my 2010 JK.
Frank S.
6/27/2014
Thanks Patrick. It works so well I forgot I had it.
This kit really simplifies wiring tail lights on a vehicle that will be towed. No cutting into the vehicle's wiring and adding isolation diodes. Very functional and easy to install.
Kim P.
1/26/2016
The parts are working perfectly. Thank you.
I have used the brake light wiring kit on 2 other towed vehicles. It is an easy install, does not compromise the original factory wiring and works well.
Robert
11/12/2018
Easy install, working well 1 year later.
Kit was of good quality components. I would recommend about twice a much protective wire wrap along with extra of the smaller butt connectors. Fortunitely I had what I needed on hand. I also used a larger ring terminal.
Jack M.
5/9/2020
Works great. 2002 Jeep Wrangler tail lights have plenty of room for the extra tail light bulbs.
Good instructions. Everything need is included for 4flat connections. One bulb socket arrived with the ground (black) wire loose in the bag. The solder joint had failed. Resoldered but had to remove the other wires and rubber insert from the bulb socket to avoid melting. Not a shining example for Roadmaster.
Joel
8/16/2015
no issues, working as expected
A very clever idea for an easy, neat, simple installation to safely operate tail lights on a towed vehicle. We installed this kit on our 2017 Chevy Sonic and it works great.
Edp
8/15/2018
Thanks for the follow up. Everything is working just fine, no problems, nothing but good performance.
Great product, not a bad install and works great. I chose to cut off both 4 flat connectors and I installed a 4 round connector with spring cover on the front of my CRV. Looks and work out great.
W. D.
7/19/2017
Still working fine.
Nice to not have to splice into vehicle wiring harness. Separate bulb assembly in existing tail light housing works great for towing our "TOAD" behind motor home.
Kevin M.
9/2/2020
Still works great after a year of towing to many destinations.
This time it went without a hitch. last time was another thing. hopefully moving forward its all good.
thankyou
Watched video and installed with no issues. Great product! Will buy again for future vehicles.
I really didn't want to install a separate bulb kit but our Equinox light was not compatible with our motor home. I was also installing a trailer lighting harness for the Equinox at the same time and doing them together made a lot of sense. I found this kit to be easy to manage and that drilling into the rear light housings not nearly as difficult as I had imagined. I would share a picture of the result but fortunately there is nothing to see - everything fit right into the Equinox's rear lamp structure. I compared the original lights with those from the kit driven by the RV and found them to be a great match. I upgraded the kit bulbs to LEDs for greater longevity.
Good materials and instructions. There is a YouTube video that is very helpful. I would have liked a longer connector that goes between the motor coach and the towed vehicle.
Ron S.
6/15/2017
Still working great!
Do you have a question about this Tow Bar Wiring?
Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
Robertbenita
6/30/2014
Continues to work as it should! Very pleased with end product after installation by myself and continue to be happy every time I hook up since! Nice item! And customer service...Well they checked back with me a year later to see if I needed anything. How is that for the best customer service around! A