Loctite Threadlocker 243 - Surface Insensitive - 1/4" to 3/4" Nuts/Bolts -
(139 reviews)
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Loctite Threadlocker 243 - Surface Insensitive - 1/4" to 3/4" Nuts/Bolts -
Item # LT1330799
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Loctite Lubricants Sealants Adhesives - LT1330799
- Sealant
- Nut and Bolt Sealant
- 0.2 oz
- Loctite
Features:
- General-purpose, medium-strength thread-locking liquid keeps nuts and bolts securely tightened
- Special formula tolerates light oil contamination
- Treated threads resist loosening and corrosion
- Assembled parts can be taken apart easily with hand tools
- Made in the USA
Specs:
- Application: 1/4" to 3/4" (6-mm to 20-mm) nuts and bolts
- Quantity: 0.20-fl oz tube (6 mL)
- Fixture cure (time required to become tacky): 5 minutes
- Full cure (time required to reach full set): 24 hours
- Temperature range (endurance limits of threadlocker): -65 F to 300 F
Application: Rocker studs, rocker adjustment, valve cover, cam cover and oil pan bolts, disc brake calipers, intakes, alternators and pulley assemblies.
The shaded areas in these diagrams illustrate where threadlocker should be applied in various types of assemblies:
Threadlocker 243 is applied as a liquid to the threads of screws, nuts and bolts before assembly to keep them securely tightened, even when vibration occurs. Its special formula works on surfaces with light oil contamination (especially the light oil used by machinists and rebuilders to prevent rust).
This threadlocker also seals out air, water and grime to prevent rust or other corrosion from forming. Nuts and bolts that aren't corroded last longer and can be taken apart more easily. Standard hand tools can break the seal of the threadlocker, allowing you to remove treated nuts and bolts, which then can be reused.
This threadlocker is anaerobic (hardens in the absence of air) and requires contact with an active metal to cure. Active metals (those that tarnish, corrode or rust) include brass, copper, bronze, iron, soft steel and nickel. If both parts to be joined are made of inactive materials, Loctite Klean 'N Prime primer must be applied to one of the surfaces for curing to occur. Inactive materials include plated parts, stainless steel, galvanized steel, magnetite steel, pure aluminum, titanium, magnesium, gold, silver, plastic, cadmium, Iconel, zinc, natural or chemical black oxide and anodized aluminum.
Klean 'N Prime can speed the cure rate of Threadlocker 243. This is especially helpful when you are applying the adhesive to any material, active or inactive, in colder temperatures (below 70 F).
This product is OEM specified: It is approved to meet specifications of original equipment manufacturers.
Replaces LT37419
1330799 Loctite Threadlocker 243 - Surface Insensitive - Blue
California residents: click here
Video of Loctite Threadlocker 243 - Surface Insensitive - 1/4" to 3/4" Nuts/Bolts -
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Video Transcript for Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2012 Ford F-250
Today on our 2012 Ford F250, we'll be installing the Blue Ox under-bed Gooseneck hitch, part number DH1204. We can now go over operation of the new Gooseneck head. We'll take our ball, line up the cut out groove in the side of the ball with the nipple in the Gooseneck throat dropping the ball in place, turning it, and locking it into position. Then to remove the Gooseneck ball, we'll simply press on the lock, rotate it, and pull up and out removing the ball from the throat. To put the ball into the stored position, we'll simply turn it over, line the cut out with the nipple and then drop it into place. Now, we'll go ahead with our install. Note that we've already gone ahead and lowered and removed the spare tire and both rear wheels. Using the mark in the center of the bed, already premade by the manufacturer, we'll use it as the mark for our pilot hole that we'll eventually enlarge for the throat of our Gooseneck.
Now, we'll use our hole saw bit to cut out the large hole. With out hole cut out of the bed, we'll go ahead and go underneath the bed where we'll remove the tailpipe section of the exhaust starting from the flange just behind the rear muffler. First, we'll go ahead and spray each of the fasteners at the flange, total of 3, spraying each one with some liquid lubricant and the 2 fasteners for the rear tailpipe hanger with some spray lubricant. Then, we'll go ahead and remove the 2 tailpipe fasteners that secure the hanger to the frame. Next, we'll remove the nuts at the exhaust flange. With all 3 fasteners removed and set aside for installation later, we'll need to remove the 2 rubberized inaudible 00:01:48 still holding the tailpipe.
Before we attempt to remove them, we'll spray each one with some spray lubricant and then use our pry bar to remove the rubberized inaudible 00:01:56 from the metal hanger. Be careful as you will need to support the full weight of the tailpipe at this point. Quick tech tip: Pay extra special attention to the gasket between the 2 exhaust flanges as we do not want to ruin it because we'll be reusing it when we re-install the tailpipe. Now, with the rubberized inaudible 00:02:11 removed, we'll go ahead and remove the tailpipe from underneath the bed. We'll set it aside and re-install it later. We're ready to go ahead and start installing the front and rear rails for the Gooseneck head.
Note: You'll want to line up the 2 rails next to each other as the front rail will be 1" longer than the rear rail. With our rails marked, we'll go ahead and put them in place. Starting with the front rail, we'll slide it up over the frame on the driver side bringing the passenger side up over the rail and then into position pushing it forward of our cut out hole. Now, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the rear rail, only we'll bring it back behind our cut out hole. With both rails in place, we'll be securing it with a 1/2" nut, flat washer, and 1/2" lock nut. Note: As per instructions, each one of our fasteners will get red LockTite, part number LT1330799.
Now, with our fasteners ready, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the Gooseneck head as you install the fasteners through the rail, into the head, and then secure it with the flat washer and lock nut. At this point, we'll install all 8 fasteners, 4 for the front rail and 4 for the back rail finger tight. Now, with our hardware securing the head into position, we'll move to the side plates on the outside of the frame rails. You'll wan to lay out your side plate first to make sure you identify the driver and passenger side, as they are slightly different. We're going to go ahead and mark ours, and now, we're ready to install them. Note: We're going to go ahead and install a portion of our hardware for our lower 1/2" fastener. This is a 1/2" bolt and flat washer going through the frame, through a spacer block and then through the side plate where it will get secured with a 1/2" lock nut. Now, we're ready to go ahead and put the side plate in position. Then, we can install the two 5/8" fasteners noting that the side plate has a slotted hole for one that will get an additional 5/8" flat washer. Now, we'll install the forward and rear fasteners for our side plate, which will be additional 1/2" bolt and 1/2" nut. Each one of these attachment points will line up with pre-drilled holes in the frame. Now, with all the hardware in place, we'll go ahead and repeat the same process on the opposite side. Now, with all our hardware in place, we're ready to tighten it down and torque to specifications. Now, with our hitch assembly secured, we're ready to go ahead and install the chain hold downs. Using our final size drill bit and the Gooseneck head as a template, we'll go ahead and drill out the holes that line up with the valley of the corrugated bed. With using a our bit as a centering point of the hole, we can then go ahead and drill out a pilot hole. With the pilot hole drilled out for all 4 attachment points, we'll go ahead and get in the bed and drill down through our Gooseneck head. With all 4 holes drilled out, we can go ahead and install our U-bolt chain hold downs. Next, we'll get underneath and install the fasteners. To secure the chain hold downs, each leg of the U-bolt will get a flat washer, spring, second flat washer, and then a 1/2" nylon lock nut. With all our fasteners in place, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Well tighten it down just enough to hold the washers and spring in position but not to compress the spring. With out chain hold downs in place and secured, we're ready to go ahead and re-install the exhaust. Note: It can be mad easier by getting an extra set of hands to help you hold the weight while you re-install the tailpipe. With our tailpipe secured, that will complete out installation of the Blue Ox under-bed Gooseneck hitch, part number DH1204, on 2012 Ford F250. .
Customer Reviews
Loctite Threadlocker 243 - Surface Insensitive - 1/4" to 3/4" Nuts/Bolts - - LT1330799
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (139 Customer Reviews)
by: Maintenance Guy08/16/2017
Loctite 243 (blue) worked great on my Harley Road King Custom primary asse3mbly. Great service and fast shipping. Would recommend etrailer to anyone. Will buy from in the future.
by: Solomon02/27/2022
Good product.
by: Kim S 10/28/2016
Great customer service
Fast shipping
by: Steven08/25/2023
by: RJ07/03/2021
by: Leroy01/06/2024
These were suggested as I was replacing my suspention system. They work well. Only thing I woould say is that they are a little longer than I think they should be. Made it hard to use my torque wrench.
by: Scott07/16/2023
The instructions and accompanying videos on your site made this a DIY installation that came out perfectly.
by: Lincoln B04/29/2021
This is a really solid base plate. Installation for the Pontiac Vibe was is definitely more involved that installing the alternative (Road Master). The Road Master base plate just bolts through existing bumper holes and an engine mount. This base plate is bolted directly to the frame just behind the bumper, with four 3/8" grade 5 bolts in holes you have to drill after clamping the base plate in place. I found it easy to get the required height (3/4" below bumper) but simply using a 1x3 piece of lumber. You also have drill a 1.25"hole in the frame to gain access to the inside of the frame. Tricky part of this install is getting the nuts, which are welded to a 1" plate and a ~14" steel rods, into place to be line up with the holes. It is a little hard to see. I also recommend making sure the bolts actually thread easily on to the nuts before putting the nuts in the the frame. I had the misfortune of one of the either cross threading or jamming, and I ended up having to cut the bolt head off with a sawsall using a metal blade. The bolt had not gone very far into the nut before it jammed so I was just able to get the sawsall blade behind the head, and cut it off, holding the head with a pair of vice grips. If that hadn't worked I would have had to take the car to a shop with oxy-acetaline torch to have it cut off. I was able to fish the cut of bolt out for the frame with a bent coat hanger. The first photo is of the base plate after I cut off the bolt.
Blue Ox support was GREAT! I sent them and email explaining that I needed new nuts and bolts, and they sent the needed parts (at no charge!). I just had to put my install on hold for several days.
The second problem I had was in attaching the electrical harness recepticle to the tubes on the to bar. One of the self tapping screws twisted off as I was tighting it. I ended up cutting of 1/2" of the tubes (with the sawsall) and then tapping the tubes with 1/4x20 threads, and regaining the length cut off with the bolt. My recommendation to blue ox, is that they tap these tubes with to 1/4x20, and provide regular bolts to attach the recepticle. The second picture showes the result.
When I showed the 3rd and 4th pictures to my mechanic, he was impressed and said, "That looks really solid!" The last picture shows the front of the car after I have started to assemble it (with the styrofoam padding on the bumper, and the draw bars in place.
The solidity of the Blue Ox engineering and the FABULOUS customer support has totally turned my into a Blue Ox fan. I'm glad my RV dealer suggested that I go with Blue Ox instead of the slightly cheaper solution, that would have been much less solid.
by: Roger05/05/2023
Used it for the towing equipment on our Jeep and it has done it's job by keeping all the bolts in the same position. Would highly recommend
by: Gene 09/04/2023
Worked as expected.
by: Jens R.12/03/2019
I will never go back to liquid threadlockers. This should be the industry standard. No mess, no waste, much more control, no spilling, and countless more benefits. I use it for small screws, so it makes it much easier to apply a more reasonable amount so I don't end up stripping the torx heads when I remove them from having to put too much torque on it to remove them. My only complaint about this product is that I didn't find it sooner!
by: Ken S.05/04/2017
I ordered multiple Roadmaster products from etrailer.com to rebuild a used Roadmaster Sterling towbar and prepare my car for its first time towing behind the motorhome. The etrailer people are great to work with, the prices are good, delivery is quick, and free shipping for all of my orders. The technical support at both etrailer and Roadmaster is the best.
by: Anna09/28/2017
Locks the threads so the screw doesn't back off. Its holding down a tongue pivot bolt and a anti-rattle bolt currently. Only time will tell if it stays put per long run. Put it was exactly as desired.
by: Jeffrey04/19/2019
This stuff works! Used it to install my trailer hitch bolts.
by: tap194608/17/2012
I have used the LocTite products for many years. They make several grades of thread locking fluids, each appropriate for specific uses. Their products do exactly what they say they will; and will secure threaded parts from vibration or lock them together permanently. Your toughest choice will be in determining which product is most appropriate for your use. My recommendation is to start with the lowest strength and work you way up as needed. Just remember that without special tools, permanent means permanent with this product. The lower grades are very strong in preventing vibratory loosening.
by: Larry J02/06/2015
Bought this product after watching the video how to install base plates on 2014 Honda CR-V. If you read the instructions talks about checking the bolts periodically for torque, now I don't know how many people are going to spend 4 hours pulling off the front bumper to this. So for peace of mind use this product so bolts won't come loose.
by: Anthony03/31/2022
For the installation the instructions were good, but watching some videos made it much easier to take apart a brand new car. All went well. Installed on a 2020 Chevy Equinox 2.0
by: TODD D.02/05/2016
Locktite makes very good products, and this is another one. Used for fasteners that are already assembled/torqued and it wicks into place. E-Trailer completed the order process and delivered the product as expected, so well-done to them.
by: Loctite 26209/13/2016
Reinstalling clutch, equipment manufacturer specifies using LOCTITE 262 on clutch reinstall. Unable to locate 262 except in large quantities in my area. Etrailer had the small quantity 262 and responded to my order immediately. Completed clutch reinstall and equipment is running fine. Thanks Etrailer
by: Maintenance Guy08/15/2017
Needed Loctite 262 to assemble my Harley Road King primary. Great service and fast shipping. Will buy from etrailer in the future.
by: Henry T01/09/2015
Loctite used on base plate installation. Worked well as always.
by: Craig01/15/2021
Easy install and a HUGE difference in control. Along with the stabilizer you cannot go wrong.
by: Robert10/02/2019
Product was exactly as advertised, and as I wanted. Delivered as stated. etrailer is a great company to work with. This is the second vehicle I have outfitted, and they have had great videos and directions with their products.
by: Charles05/24/2020
I am so glad I came across etrailer.com, They have what I need in stock, and show you how to use and or install the product.
They have great prices and fast shipping, What else could you ask for!
by: Joe R.03/11/2013
Product worked great. Used it on a sun visor that would no longer stay up. Worked perfectly, would recommend for anyone.
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See what our Experts say about this Loctite Lubricants Sealants Adhesives
- Is Threadlocker Needed When Installing TorkLift Superwinch Trailer Hitch ReceiverLoctite Threadlocker 243, like part # LT1330799 creates a strong bond that can still be removed with hand tools. It isn't required by the manufacturer for installing a hitch like the TorkLift SuperHitch Original Trailer Hitch Receiver, part # TLC1212. If torqued properly per the installation instructions, the hitch should be just fine.
view full answer... - Is It Ok To Use Loctite On Bolts When Installing A Receiver Hitch?Using Loctite when installing a hitch is not required if the receiver hitch hardware is torqued down to specifications. However, using Loctite certainly wouldn't hurt. You could use the Loctite Threadlocker 243 # LT1330799 which would still allow you to remove the bolts with hand tools.
view full answer... - Can Loctite Threadlocker be Used when Installing Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2008 Ford F-250To answer the last question first you could attach some quick links to the safety chain loops on Curt trailer hitch # C15410 so that they are compatible with smaller hooks. We have different size quick links and S-hooks depending on your needs and I have provided a link to them for you. For the trailer hitch installation hardware you can use Loctite such as # LT1330799 for a stronger bond or # LT37643 for a connection that can still be removed with hand tools. It is not required and the...
view full answer...
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Info for this part was:
Written by:
Raymond P
Video by:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Sue W
Updated by:
Matthew S
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