Comparing Reese and Reese Bar Style Friction Sway Control

Question

Question:

Just curious why there is such a big price difference between the different friction devices. The Reese vs the pro-series there is about an $80.00 difference? They appear to be very similar? Also, it says remove during back up. What may happen if I forget?

asked by: Joe H

0

Expert Reply:

Basically you are looking at a difference of the quality of materials used. The Reese unit, which is now discontinued, used premium materials and is made in the US whereas the economy Reese model # 83660 uses less than premium materials and is made overseas.

Friction bar sway control units do have to be taken off when backing up (unless backing up perfectly straight). The reason is that they can handle the forces applied to them when turning and going forward but the physics are different when backing up and they can bend and break and may or may not damage the trailer as well.

expert reply by: Michael H

0

Answer 1

If your flip-down tongue jack is mounted on the outside of your trailer frame, you will not be able to mount the Reese Friction Style Sway-Control System, part #83660, on the same side. The friction sway-control system will mount to the frame of…

view full answer...

Answer 2

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

view full answer...

Answer 3

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

view full answer...

Answer 4

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

view full answer...

Answer 5

Even though I cannot comment specifically on the grease you used because I am not familiar with it, I can tell you the best grease for trailer bearings is a a grease with a rating of GC-LB, which just means it is made to withstand very high…

view full answer...

Answer 6

You will have to go with a sliding hitch to allow the trailer to make tight turns. For a trailer 8 feet wide the only bed length that's going to allow 90 degree turns without a slider is a stationary hitch. That being said you have two options.…

view full answer...

Answer 7

To determine the size of the hub assembly you need to purchase you have to determine which bearings are in the old assembly. If the old assembly has L44649 inner bearings, you would use the hub you chose #8-258-5UC1. If the inner bearings are marked…

view full answer...

Answer 8

To determine the size of the brake assemblies you need you have to measure the depth and width of the hub drum on the axle like what you see in the picture I attached. The most common size is 2-1/4 inch wide like the #T4071600-500 that you…

view full answer...

Answer 9

A BT8 spindle would have a diameter of .99 of an inch where the bearings would both install and would have a diameter of 1.24 where the great seal would ride. That would require a hub part #AKIHUB-440-2-1K for an idler hub. A BTR spindle would have…

view full answer...

Answer 10

The OEM prep package consists of 4 "pucks" in the bed of the truck that will allow you to drop in puck style hitches for easy installation and removal, that gives you a completely clear bed when not in use. The B&W Companion OEM 5th…

view full answer...

Answer 11

To find the load capacity for your axle you should look on the trailer VIN plate or sticker that lists the VIN number. The weight rating of the axle should be listed on that same plate or sticker. Also, the axle could have a tag or plate on it that…

view full answer...

Answer 12

Class I and Class II hitches both have a 1-1/4 inch receiver opening. The difference is that a Class I hitch has a lower tongue weight rating, usually 200 pounds and a lower towing rating, usually 2,000 pounds. A Class II hitch usually has a tongue…

view full answer...