A trailer brake controller like the Tekonsha Primus IQ # TK90160 will apply the brakes when you press the manual override lever with the same force as when you press the pedal. This force will be determined by the chosen power level and boost setting. The display message .C indicates that the controller has power, senses a connected trailer but does not have the boost feature engaged. When you engage the boost another dot will appear and you will see .C. When you press the manual lever... view full answer...
It sounds like there may be a couple of issues going on here. First, It is very common for LED lights like # C7493RTM & # C7483RTM to remain on very dimly whenever the trailer is connected to a vehicle, even if the ignition is turned off. The only solution is to disconnect your trailer when you will be parked for extended periods.
Now let's address the bigger issue. When turning on the vehicle's headlights causes one or more of the trailer lights to stop working the number one culprit... view full answer...
You can try a new controller but I don't know if that would be my first thing to try. You might see if something got bent when it hit the ground. Look under the step and see if something happened to the linkage or gear that the motor runs on. Since you the step moved slowly you might also check to see if the battery is charged as well. view full answer...
Most likely the problem you described is from a short on the trailer wiring. Running a powered converter is a great idea as it protects the taillight circuits of the vehicle it is installed on. But if you are seeing smoke, melted wire, and fuses blowing immediately the problem is a short somewhere on the wiring that is WAY overdrawing the circuits.
If the smoke started after plugging the harness into your trailer then the problem is the trailer wiring, if the smoke started after plugging... view full answer...
First thing I would do is pull off the hub and inspect the inside surface where the brake magnet rides. If it isn't completely smooth it could be grabbing the magnet and breaking it. Most likely you would have needed to replace the hub after the first time the magnet broke.
Are you sure you are using the correct orientated assembly? Brake assemblies are sold in right hand and left hand versions. The actuating arm of the assembly should be pointing towards the front of the trailer.
In... view full answer...
I have seen this reported before and there is actually a note in the installation instructions on your Curt Front Hitch # C31020 where it talks about removing the oil filter and the interference with the front hitch. According to Curt, you must remove/discard the oil drip trough to allow full access to the oil filter for removal.
I've linked a copy of the instructions for the Curt # C31020 hitch for you to have a look at, as well. view full answer...
So far you have eliminated the trailer and ground from what could possibly be wrong with your setup. The first thing I would do if you have not already is just remove t-connectors and then push them back together just to make sure they are making good contact. Hopefully it is just a situation where the terminals are just not making good contact.
The next thing I would check is for the correct voltage on the input side of the convertor box. I would recommend using a circuit tester like... view full answer...
A 4-pole wiring harness like Hopkins # 42475 combines the stop and turn light signals from the Liberty onto one wire for each side of the trailer. The green wire carries passenger side brake and turn signals and the yellow carries the same two signals for the driver side of the trailer.
If you have a left brake light signal but you are finding that you do not have a left turn signal this could mean that one of the pins inside the vehicle or harness connectors is not making proper contact... view full answer...
If you are checking the harness, item # 118524, without the trailer hooked up and there is no power on the yellow left turn circuit coming out of the converter, then you will need to check the ground wire on the vehicle and be sure it is securely connected to a good ground point. Then check the connectors behind the taillights and be sure they are securely connected. If all checks out then your converter has shorted out somehow and will need to be replaced.
If you are checking the yellow... view full answer...
Since you installed the wiring on your 2004 Jeep Liberty a few years ago but never used it then the first thing to do is apply 12V power to each pin on the front of your Liberty to see if the lights function like they should. If they do then you know the problem is on your motorhome but if they don't then the problem lies with the wiring on your Liberty.
Regardless which side it's on you'll want to use a circuit tester to test along the wiring to see where the signal gets lost. Making... view full answer...
The problem is most likely in the connectors of the trailer wiring you have installed on your 2008 Jeep Liberty. I would try removing the kit first and seeing if you can find any corrosion in the connectors and clean it out.
If not a much easier and less expensive route would be to replace the trailer wiring with the Tow Ready kit part # 118554. This will allow you to get rid of the harness you have that doesn't allow the reverse lights to work with and then replace it with a kit that... view full answer...
The fact that your trailer lights seem to work just fine until the vehicle headlights are switched on indicates a ground problem somewhere in the system.
The quick way to confirm a ground problem would be to disconnect your existing ground connection from the trailer and use a butt connector to temporarily connect a length of wire long enough to reach the negative battery terminal. If this temporary jumper fixes the problem (which it most likely will), you have confirmed a poor ground... view full answer...
I am assuming that you received the same error code on the replacement Patriot braking system which would indicate another software error. The question is, why does this keep happening, since it is unlikely that 2 different Patriot systems would have the exact same problem.
It sounds like what might be happening is the Liberty battery is losing voltage over time while you are towing and that is affecting the Patriot system, which is supposed to go into a battery saving mode when it detects... view full answer...
What it seems to boil down to is if the vehicle has a 2 wire system or a 3 wire system. On a 2 wire system, you would ground the red wire with the white wire. This is because the stop and turn signal lights are combined on one circuit.
On a 3 wire system, the turn signals are separate from the stop light so the wire needs to be connected to the dedicated brake light wire.
What it sounds like is that the running light brown wire is getting connected to the wrong wire on the vehicle. VW... view full answer...
The first thing to do is disconnect the trailer from the Liberty. Then using a circuit tester, like part # PTW2993, test each pin of the 4-Way. Clip the alligator clip of the circuit tester to the exposed post, the ground wire. Check each pin with the probe. The brown wire should be running lights. Yellow should be left brake and turn, and green should have the same functions but for the right side.
If these functions all work, then the problem is on the trailer. If not, then the problem... view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at Curt, and they agree that it sounds like the converter box on the T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness, # C56334 might be bad. You can troubleshoot the converter by using a circuit tester like # PTW2993, on the input side of the converter (wires leading from the connection to the vehicle taillight harness to the converter box). Test each wire as its function is activated- red wire = brake lamps, brown wire = running lamps, yellow wire = left turn and green wire... view full answer...
It sounds to me as if you have blown a fuse or fuses in some way. I would begin by dis-connecting any trailer or other item connected to the 4-Way connector on the vehicle. Once this is done use a circuit tester, item # PTW2993 if needed, to check the connector and see if the functions of the newly installed trailer connector are working. If the trailer wiring harness is not working, then I would disconnect the wiring harness from the vehicle completely. If this does not restore the window,... view full answer...
It could be a blown fuse on the tail light circuit. If the vehicle has no tail lights, when trailer disconnected, a blow fuse is the most likely culprit. Check for any towing light or tail light circuits on your fuse blocks and see if you cannot find a burned fuse.
If I knew which universal converter you installed, I may be able to provide some more trouble shooting view full answer...
If you've got 15 inch wheels on your horse trailer I believe you've likely got 12 inch brakes; you will want to confirm the capacity of your axle and the size of the hub and drums in order to make sure you get the right parts.
To replace those, I recommend using the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting - 12" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 5.2K to 7K # AKEBRK-7-SA since they're a high quality self adjusting brake assembly; after the initial adjustments you won't need to do any... view full answer...
It sounds like the converter box of the Tow Ready harness part # 118554 that you installed on your 2009 Jeep Liberty has shorted out. Typically when we see a trailer light that stays on the reason is that the box has shorted out. To test the wiring harness to be sure if the harness has shorted out check out the video I attached on the subject.
I also attached an FAQ on troubleshooting 4-way installs for you to check out as well.
Chances are there is a short on the trailer wiring that... view full answer...
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