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The built-in tester on the 4-way flat in this kit lets you easily troubleshoot. Great for setups with LED or incandescent bulbs, this kit converts your vehicle's lighting system to match your trailer's. Pulls power directly from your battery.
Features:
Specs:
Some vehicles operate on a 3-wire system, wherein the brake signal and the turn signals run on separate wires to illuminate different lights. (Typically, these vehicles have amber turn signals.) But most trailers run on a 2-wire system, which means the brake and turn signals travel along a single wire. You'll notice that, on your trailer, the brake light will flash for the turn signals.
If your vehicle operates on a 3-wire system, it will need to be converted so it will be compatible with the wiring system of your trailer. This is where a tail light converter comes into play. This converter lets you combine the brake and turn signal functions of your vehicle so they run on a single wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights.
This particular converter also works with newer types of vehicle wiring, like PWM. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is standard on European vehicles.
This converter won't overload or cause damage to your system because it pulls power straight from your vehicle's battery. So you can be sure that your trailer lights will activate no matter what type of bulbs your vehicle has - or your trailer, for that matter.
This kit comes with all the wiring you'll need to convert your vehicle's lighting system to match your trailer's. The powered converter box has splice-in wires on one end and a harness with a 4-way flat vehicle-end connector on the other. It also comes with a power wire that will connect to your battery so your electrical system doesn't get overloaded.
To begin the installation, use a circuit tester (sold separately) to double-check the function of each wire on your vehicle's tail light wiring harness. The color/function of the splice-in wires on this converter may not match the color/function of those on your vehicle, so you'll want to be sure to check all of the wire functions first. Once you've figured out the functions of your vehicle's wiring, use the included quick-splice connectors to connect the corresponding wires on the trailer connector. Quick-splices, or "wire taps" offer a quick way to make connections without you having to strip and twist wires. Just place the wires in one of the taps and snap the covers down.
Using the included double-sided tape, stick the converter box to a flat surface inside your vehicle near the tail lights. It's helpful to clean the surface first so the tape can adhere fully.
Once the converter box is spliced in, you need to run the power wire up to your battery. Be sure to remove the fuse before connecting anything so you don't blow it! You can put it back in once everything has been installed. To hook up to your battery, you'll need to disconnect the negative cable from your battery and attach the power wire to the positive terminal with the included ring terminal. Finally, secure the converter wires to your vehicle using included cable ties.
Find a raw, unpainted metal surface to use as a grounding point and secure the white ground wire using the self-tapping screw. Cleaning the surface prior to securing the white wire will ensure the converter is fully grounded. If you have a 2-wire system, the red brake wire will need to be grounded as well. You can do that in the same way, using an extra ring terminal (sold separately).
The LED lights on the 4-flat connector will light up to let you know each function is working every time you plug it into your trailer's wiring harness.
Quick Tips:
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we're going to take a look at the Hopkins Endurance Power Taillight Converter. Now, this system will allow you to install a four way trailer connector on your vehicles. It's equipped with pulse with modulation, independent bulb system, or a common bulb system. The module portion right here is what'll get the signal from the vehicle wiring system, but it will power the lights on the trailer directly from your vehicle's battery. This will also protect your tow vehicle, electronics, and even itself from any wiring shorts, because it uses a self-resetting short proof protection. Also, there's no heavy duty flashers required on your vehicle. On the four way, if you'll notice it'll have these LED lights right here that'll test each electrical function on the four way and it does use this dust cap that'll protect the four way.
When you plug it in just plug it in, and when you're not plugged in just put the cap back over it, protects it. Does use a double-molded weather-proof design. This will provide brighter bulbs. Also has the printed water functions on the wires of the four way right here. It includes everything laid out here on the table. Has the power converter.
It has this extra 6 foot length of 12 gauge powered lead wire, and that is what'll run to the vehicle's battery to supply power to the module. Here's your power wire, you connect it. Now, before you connect this to the battery you want to run it through the included inline fuse holder, has the 20 amp fuse in it. Also has the four spliced gel connectors. Those are used to connect the wires to your vehicle. Has a self-tapping ground screw here, and what that's needed for is this white wire with the eyelet that comes out of the module, need to connect that to a good clean ground, so they do include this self-tapping screw to do that.
It includes some cable ties to take up any slack in the wiring. The last thing is this packet of dielectric grease or terminal grease, and you want to use that grease on any of your electrical connections that you would make. Now, this will power up to 8 amps per output. That should do it for the review on the Hopkins Endurance Power Taillight Converter.
Average Customer Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars (3 Customer Reviews)
The built-in tester on the 4-way flat in this kit lets you easily troubleshoot. Great for setups with LED or incandescent bulbs, this kit converts your vehicle's lighting system to match your trailer's. Pulls power directly from your battery.
I pull 2 PWC trailers in tandem and I kept burning up trailer light converters. Especially when in traffic and having to hold my brakes a while. After some time looking at different converters, I found that this one had the highest amp rating. I could tell right away that this converter was a good one. My trailer lights were bright as ever! The only problem I've had.... There are 3 LED indicators on the connector that illuminate verifying that circuit is working. One of those LEDs got moisture in it and it doesn't illuminate any more. The trailer lights still work as they should.
Purchased as a spare. Owners of my model motorhome report high failures and I just had my first failure replaced under warranty. Just don't want to be caught in middles of nowhere.
Etrailer is my go to company.
Stacy was so professional, courteous and helpful in getting our part ordered and shipped.
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