Optronics LED Off-Road Light Bar - 11,600 Lumens - Mixed Beam - Double Row - 50" Long

Video Transcript for Optronics LED Off-Road Light Bar Installation

Hey guys, Kevin here with etrailer. And today, I'm gonna be showing you how to install the Optronics Off-road LED light bar here on our enclosed trailer. So if you're off-roading or maybe you have an enclosed trailer, just like our neighbor does today, you're gonna need a whole lot of visibility. To help with that, this LED light bar has two rows of 20 LEDs each to help give you optimal visibility. It has a super easy adjustment. All you have to do, is on the sides there's gonna be two bolts that you can easily tighten down or loosen, and then slowly turn your light exactly how you need it.

For ours today, our neighbor needed it inside of his trailer, instead of outside like you normally would because he's having a in. He needs a whole lot of visibility right here at the entrance of the trailer. So what I've done so far is I've actually tilted it down so that he can see it. And then all we have to simply do is just tighten down our bolts with the provided Allen key or to lock that in place. That way, when you're rolling around, maybe you're hitting bumpy roads or if you're off-roading with it, you know it's gonna stay exactly where you need it and not shift.

As you can see on the back here, there's these channeled fins on the back of the housing to let heat dissipate quickly so that your LEDs have optimal performance. So the actual housing around the lights is a black powder-coated die cast aluminum which is gonna help resist any rust and corrosion that you might have if this is sitting outside, in the rain, or if you're out mudding, off-roading, doing any kind of outdoor activities. The lens here is made of a polycarbonate which is also impact-resistant, which means that if a rock comes up and hits that you're not gonna have to worry about it shattering or cracking, like you would if it was typical glass. With this whole housing actually being waterproof, you also don't have to worry about any water getting in and ruining any of the wiring or the LEDs itself. Because the system is compatible with both 12-volt and 24-volt electrical systems, it makes it super versatile so that you can use it with our enclosed trailer that we have today.

Maybe you wanna put it on the outside of a work trailer just so you have some more light when you're doing any construction work or anything like that, or if you are putting it on a jeep 'cause you're off-roading or even just on your truck if you want to have extra visibility, maybe you drive through country roads and just your headlights aren't really cutting it. So this is where this light will definitely come in handy and give you better visibility. So this light bar is only going to come with the little wiring harness that comes off and then the actual brackets itself and the bolts to mount this onto whatever kind of application you have for it. Because of that, if you do want to run additional wiring, you are going to need to supply that yourself, or a switch if you wanna be able to turn it on and off, like we did today here on our enclosed trailer. I just threw on a little toggle switch that we could just easily press on and off for our light bar.

Depending on your application, this can be a very easy install. Honestly, with us, I was running it straight to another light that had already had wire available within the same vicinity. So it really wasn't too hard to tie right into it. Obviously, if you're running this further down a trailer, maybe through a car, something like that where you have to spend more time running the wiring, that's gonna be your hardest part, but as far as hooking up to the actual light itself and installing it, it's super simple. Now that we've gone over some of the features of this light bar, let's go ahead and show you how we installed it. To begin our installation, we're gonna go ahead and put our brackets on. As you can see, you could kind of put this either way just 'cause there's the teeth on here. But what you actually wanna do is make sure that you're putting it with this ring that kind of protrudes out into this slot right here instead of doing it that way. Obviously, if you absolutely had to, just because of your situation for whatever application you're trying to put it on, you could just 'cause it has the teeth. It's just not gonna be as great without that little ring kind of setting in there holding it in place. But I'm gonna go ahead and we're gonna take the smaller bolt that comes with your kit. We're gonna use our lock washer and our regular washer. We're gonna just hand tighten this down for the time being. So we get this exactly where we want it for our mounting. So there's gonna be two ways you could figure out exactly where you need to drill your holes for your brackets. You could have somebody else hold it up in place for you, exactly where you want it and then just make little marks through the holes that are in the brackets with a pen or a pencil. Or if you don't have anybody with you, you can go ahead and just measure the distance from the center of one bracket hole over to the other one. So that's what I'm gonna do right now. So when I have it lined up from center to center, I'm looking at right at 51 1/2 inches. So now I know that my distance between my bracket holes is 51 inches and I can transfer that up to the ceiling. Since we have a overall 85 3/4-inch width from our bracket here over to our bracket over there that covers up our corners. I'm gonna take off at 51 3/8-inch frame bracket width that we had originally, and then the difference between that is going to be our measurements that we're gonna draw on our sides here. So because we're gonna be facing outwards, I wanna really make sure that we have this set right. We're going to be putting right into our stud that's going across our ceiling here. So I'm gonna keep in line with that. And I'm gonna measure over 17 1/8, and make a little mark. So now I know I'm gonna be hitting my stud and I can go ahead and do the same thing on the other side. So your kit's actually gonna come with this bolt that's gonna have a nut, a lock washer and a regular washer. Since we can't really see up there to actually tighten this down correctly, I'm gonna have to shoot some self-tapping screws up into our stud. So I'm gonna go ahead and still use that lock washer and regular washer. And then you're also gonna have these little pads. There's gonna be a hole through it and that's gonna match up with the feet right here with our bracket. So we're gonna go ahead and hold that in place while we shoot our bolts through. So I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna do that right now. All right, so I'm screwing this in right now into that hole I drew earlier. I'm gonna go ahead, I'm gonna support this and work my way over to the other side, and put in our other self-tapper. All right, now that we have that in place, we can go ahead and start working on our wiring. So for our wiring, we're gonna be routing this just right across our ceiling. We're gonna use some wire loom, try to make it look a little bit nicer, have it come across over here and then tie into our existing lighting that's running for our little lights that we installed at the bottom already. But to do that, I'm gonna go ahead, clip this off real quick. And we're gonna dig into this wiring right here 'cause I'm also gonna be installing a little toggle switch. It's just gonna have a little quick on or off, make it nice and easy for us. That way, he can turn his light bar on as needed 'cause he is not always gonna want that shining right out into his eyes if he's just walking in and out of his trailer. So I decided this is probably a good height for our toggle switch here. So I'm gonna go ahead and I'm gonna strip back our wire loom. I'm gonna be real careful not to actually cut my wire yet, 'cause I'm only gonna be cutting the power and not actually the neutral. There we go. So now I can go ahead and make a little break in my power here, and you wanna make sure that you have this while your power's disconnected. We don't want any surges going through and messing anything up. And because I had already made this so tight before the first time I installed it. I'm gonna add a little bit more length to my wire just so that I can have this reattach correctly when we tie in our light. Crimp that down. All right. Now we can go ahead and start running our wire over for our light bar. Alright, so now we're gonna be going ahead and crimping on a butt connector to our power. Yeah, we're gonna run some wire. We're just gonna be using something that we had here. Your kit is not going to come with extra wire just 'cause they don't know exactly how you're gonna be running this and the length that you might need at place. And we can also crimp on some wire for our neutral. I'm gonna go ahead and twist this up, and then kind of cut off quite a bit of casing. We don't really need that much exposed wire. So once I get that nice and tight, I'm gonna cut off a bit and then we can do the same thing and crimp on a wire for our neutral. Now you can go ahead and route it. I am gonna grab some zip ties and wire loom and we're gonna get this kind of ran over to our other wiring over here, and out of the way, make it look kind of nice. We don't want these exposed wires showing. So right now I'm gonna go ahead and tie in our neutral wires. These won't matter for our switch 'cause the switch is only gonna be our power wire. So I already went ahead and put a butt connector on our bottom part of our wire or neutral wire that runs down to our light that's already installed. I'm gonna go ahead and twist these other two together, and we'll remake our connection with that butt connector. Crimp it down. And now we can start tying in our switch. So for that extra little piece of wire that we crimped on, we're gonna go ahead and kind of bend it back down 'cause that's gonna go ahead and match right back up to our original wire that we cut and we're gonna butt connect to that to one side of our switch 'cause we want this to always be on, and only our light bar to be operated by the switch. So with these two connected back together again, our light down there is gonna work anytime our switch is turned on. For all of our other lights, we can go ahead and crimp that to one side of our switch. Then for other side, we're gonna use another butt connector. Just go ahead and put it on this side first, and run that over to the power wire that we have running to our light bar. So now we're gonna go ahead and do a little test of our wiring. Make sure that our switch is actually working. As you can see the lights are on the ceiling and down at the bottom for our other lights. Let's go ahead and flip the switch. And our light bar is working and easily able to turn on and off. That way, it's not always blinding anytime he's happen to just walk in and out of his trailer, but is gonna be there and useful whenever he is trying to pull his race car in. So I've got some industrial double-sided tape here. That's gonna do a really good job at holding this in place since we're not actually implanting this inside the wall and we're just sticking it on but let's go ahead and do that now. And luckily, this pretty much fits this body of our switch here. Go ahead and stick that on. And now we can go ahead and peel back our backing and get it exactly where we want it, and just press down nice and tight. Make sure this is really getting stuck on there. Now that our switch is in place. I'm gonna go ahead and clean up all of our wiring here using some wire loom. Well, I think that about does it for today's installation of the Optronics Off-road LED light bar. My name's Kevin. Thanks for watching..