Converting a 1995 Jayco Eagle 12 UDK To Use Electric Trailer Brakes  

First off, I want to say I’m a complete newbie to the pop up camper world. My wife and I purchased a 1995 Jayco Eagle 12 UDK pop up trailer which is new to us. I’m 2 weeks in and have been through multiple forums to find information. 12” box with two bunk slide outs. GVWR is 2460, Dry Weight is 1705. Tow Vehicle is a 2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7L V8 with tow package My question is related to switching over to electric brakes from surge brakes. Why? I popped the brake reservoir cap on the coupler Atwood and there was zero fluid and rust and crud in the reservoir. I’d rather not fill the reservoir with Dot 3 and hope for the best, knowing that most likely the whole system is rusted and won’t work properly. Here’s the current axle setup: - Dexter Torflex Single Axle shows the following stamp on the metal tag wrapped on the axle: 3B-0148044. I can’t locate any information on this axle online. - 10” Wheels with 4 Lug Bolts 20.5x10 Tires or 205/65-10. Purchased 3 new 205/65-10 D rated tires already from etrailer. - Current Drum / Hub Size: Unknown, as I have not pulled the wheels / hubs yet. I’m highly aware that I’ll need to inspect races / bearings and most likely buy replacements and pack them as the previous owner did zero maintenance. Hitch is setup for a 2” Ball. I noticed a bolt on the side of the coupler for reverse lock out of the actuator to prevent it from applying the brakes while backing up the trailer. My first thought is to just permanently lock out the actuator with a bolt, abandon the surge brakes completely, remove the lines, and switch over to electric. Plan is to do it myself. I’m hoping etrailer has a kit that will work with my current axle setup, where I can install new hubs, brakes, wires, 7 pin conector, and my TV already has the brake controller. If I did make the switch to electric, would I remove the original brake master cylinder in the coupler, leave the actuator in place, permanently lock out the actuator, remove all brake lines and then proceed with the electric brake rebuild? I do not want to replace the coupler or weld a new one on. I should be able to permanently lock out the actuator by putting a bolt through it to keep it in reverse lock out position to prevent the clunk of the actuator for the old surge brakes. I just dont know what to order from etrailer or what other information you need from me to determine the best parts to make the switch to electric brakes without having to install a new axle.

asked by: Brent