What To Do If The Holes In The Hitch Don't Quite Line Up With The Holes In The Vehicle Frame?

Question

Question:

I ordered the Curt hitch recommended for my year make and model. The holes do not line up. Only a small amount of the hole in frame is visible and I’m not able to start the screw.

asked by: Paul S

0

Expert Reply:

The Curt # C11276 is designed to fit all trim levels and or options for the Toyota Prius in the 2011 model year. From what you are describing, I believe the hitch is just flexed out of alignment a little bit.

Hitch manufacturers design the frame attachment arms with mild steel so that they can flex. They do this to prevent stress fractures from occurring over time due to changes in temperature, impact from potholes, and anything that can cause the vehicle frame to twist. Because they are made to flex, they can sometimes get knocked out of alignment causing the holes not to line up properly.

To fix this, I usually hold the arm firmly in a table vise and use the cross tube like a lever. You can think of the connection between the tube and the arm as the pivot point, and you would basically be opening up the angle. If a table vise is not available, an open step can also be used for leverage on the arm. If the hitch is only off by a small margin and you can get the bolts in on one side, you can also attach the one side and use a pry bar or board to push the other arm into place. Once the holes line up, get a bolt in place to keep the arm from moving back.

You should be able to tell which side has been flexed if you lay the hitch flat on the floor and look down on top of it. If it looks like both arms were knocked toward each other, you can use a jack and a board to spread them apart. I included an article showing this in better detail as well.

expert reply by: Lazer S

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Answer 1

I spoke with our installers and they told me that this will happen time to time. They said there are times when the auto manufacturer will have the holes moved just a bit, but they work with them to make it work. They told me that they use a tool…

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Answer 2

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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Answer 3

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

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Answer 4

Class I and Class II hitches both have a 1-1/4 inch receiver opening. The difference is that a Class I hitch has a lower tongue weight rating, usually 200 pounds and a lower towing rating, usually 2,000 pounds. A Class II hitch usually has a tongue…

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Answer 5

To me it makes the most sense to put a Bike Rack #HLY64FR on the flat towed vehicle rather than above the tow bars. Especially on heavy e-bikes as they are difficult to lift that high onto the rack, but also as it only makes sense to have the rack on…

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Answer 6

What that means is that the cross section of the hitch that runs side to side is completely out of sight once it's installed onto the vehicle. The hitch you looked at, part #C13065, has a hidden cross tube that you can't see with it…

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Answer 7

The Kuat Sherpa 2.0 #SH22G and the NV 2.0 #NV22G that you referenced are both excellent platform-style racks that will hold your bikes by the front wheels with no frame contact. These are top-of-the-line carriers and you really would not go wrong…

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What To Do If The Holes In The Hitch Don't Quite Line Up With The Holes In The Vehicle Frame?

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