Bolts Won't go in Weld Nuts For Curt Hitch C13377
Question:
My question is in regards to installation and does not necessarily have to be posted on your website unless you find it beneficial. The installation of my Curt #C13377 hitch went relatively well except towards the very end, the only bolt which would not go straight in is the M12 bolt provided in the kit not the existing ones from the tow hook that supposed to be used with the conical washer. The bolt will not go straight in and bite into the weld nut no matter how much I try to line or re-align the bold up into the weld nut. I even loosened all the other bolts on both sides so theres some play to line the hitch hole up so it wont get in the way of the bolt, but it still wont go in, I tried to torque it without forcing it and it would just go up slightly then pop back out, so its not biting into the weld nut. Could I try one of the existing M12 bolts that came with the tow hook, or another size or bolt with a different thread pitch? Or is the bolt or the weld nut stripped for some reason, or a manufacturer defect or imperfection in the threads of the weld nut on the frame rail not allowing the bolt to bite and screw in? What options can I explore to secure that hitch through that last hole? All the other bolts are secured and torqued to spec. Thanks
asked by: Paul G
Expert Reply:
If the bolt won't go in the weld nut of the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver # C13377, the issue is almost certainly that the weld nuts are dirty and thus stopping the bolt from catching.
What you'll want to do is clean the weld nut with a brush and lubricant, and I have added a link below to a help article which details exactly how to accomplish this.
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
- Trailer Hitch
- Custom Fit Hitch
- Class III
- 525 lbs TW
- 3500 lbs GTW
- 2 Inch Hitch
- Concealed Cross Tube
- CURT
more information >
Featured Help Information
Instructions
Miscellaneous Media
Continue Researching
- Shop: Trailer Hitch
- Shop: Trailer Wiring
- Shop: Curt Class II Drawbar - 2-5/8" Rise, 3-1/4" Drop - 7-1/4" Long - 3,500 lbs
- Shop: Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
- Video: Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Acura MDX
- Q&A: I Am Having Trouble Getting The Last Bolt To Fit When Installing My Hitch
- Article: How to Clean Weld Nuts for the Installation of a Trailer Hitch | etrailer.com
- Shop: Nylon Tube Brush - 3/8"
- Q&A: Troubleshooting Hitch Install Bolts Not Threading Into Frame Rail Weld Nut
- Search Results: thule accessories and parts
- Video: Choosing the Right Trailer Wiring
- Shop: Battery Post and Terminal Cleaner - Wire Brush
- Shop: Curt Class III Ball Mount with 2" Ball - 4" Drop - 2" Rise - 7,500 lbs
- Shop: Cleaning Brushes - Brass, Nylon, and Stainless Steel Bristles - Multi Purpose - 3 Pieces
- Shop: Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class IV - 2"
- Q&A: What Size Thread Tap Would be Needed for Hitch Install Weld Nuts of 2008 Chevy Equinox
- Q&A: Troubleshooting Hitch Install Bolts that Won't Turn
- Search Results: trailer hitch
- Article: How to Choose the Right Trailer Hitch Class
- Q&A: What is the Difference Between a Class II and a Class III Hitch?
- Search Results: hitch
- Article: Brake Controller 7- and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7)
- Q&A: What is the Difference Between a 4-Way and 7-Way Trailer Connector
- Video: Choosing the Right Brake Controller
- Shop: Brake Controller
- Article: How to Measure for Trailer Hitch Drop
- Search Results: trailer hitch wiring
- Q&A: Recommended Hitch for a 2024 Toyota Grand Highlander
- Search Results: brake controller
- Shop: Roof Rack