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Parts Needed To Flat Tow 1987 Jeep Wrangler YJ  

Question:

I have a 1987 Jeep Wrangler YJ 5spd that I am considering flat-towing behind a 2011 Holiday Rambler Vacationer Ford chassis V10 motorhome. What are your recommendations for electrical and brakes? I have always towed a trailer so am new to flat-tow. Also, my RV is equipped with a backup camera that is on when in reverse. Can this system be rigged to operate as a rear-view monitor when towing? Thanks for your time and consideration.

1

Helpful Expert Reply:

Yes, we have all the parts needed to safely and legally flat tow your 1987 Jeep Wrangler YJ with manual transmission.

First you need a base plate kit for your Jeep with a standard factory bumper (If you have the Off-Road Bumper with 1” D-Ringer Bumper Mounts, or Off-Road Bumper with 3/4” D-Ring Bumper Mounts, or Rugged Ridge XHD Bumper, just email me back for a updated recommendation.) The Roadmaster 1409-1 Crossbar-Style would be a good choice, but keep in mind this technical note: Most vehicles have a steel bumper shaped like a U with a flat top and face, onto which the # 1409-3 or # 1409-1 brackets bolt. Some vehicles have bumpers without a flat face and top which prevent the use of these brackets.

Next you will need a tow bar. You can use the Roadmaster # RM-520 “Falcon 2” standard tow bar rated for 6000 pounds. For a little more cost you can use the Roadmaster # RM-522 “Falcon” All Terrain and Non-Binding tow bar also rated for 6000 pounds.

A non-binding tow bar will let you easily disconnect your tow bar even if your coach and towed vehicle is not on level ground or at a difficult angle. The tow bar is the one point in flat towing that gets the most stress and wear. You don't want to go cheap or used for this most important part.

When your coach and towed vehicle are hitched together on level ground, the tow bar should be within 3” of level, otherwise you will need to add a High-Low Adapter like the Blue Ox # BLU34TR.

You will also need safety cables to keep the towed vehicle connected to your coach in case of a tow bar failure. I would recommend the Roadmaster # RM-645 which are 64” long and rated for 8000 pounds. I like that the connectors are made so they can not bounce off the cable hooks. I also prefer the straight cables compared to coiled – it just looks cleaner when they are all tucked away.

Next you will need a tow bar wiring kit. I recommend the Roadmaster RM-152-98146-7 Universal wiring kit which includes everything you need to connect your RV's tail, brake, and turn signal lights to your towed car. Diodes prevent feedback and wire your car to operate as a combined system. Includes a 7-way to 6-way straight adapter cord. When you do finally get ready to plug your electrical cables in I would put a little Edelmann # 11755 dielectric grease on those connections. The dielectric grease will keep help keep moisture and corrosion out of your connections.

Your Jeep weighs in about 2900 – 3200 pounds so you will need a supplemental braking system installed in it. This will improve braking and handling, and extend the life of your coaches braking system. Additionally, most states require supplemental braking if your towed vehicle is over 3000 pounds. If your coach has traditional hydraulic brakes then I recommend the Brake Buddy # HM39524 portable system that has proportional braking and has a wireless display for your cab so you can see your braking system status or change profiles from your driver's seat.

If your coach has air brakes, then instead of the Brake Buddy system, you will need the Demco # DM26VR supplemental braking system for air brakes.

Regarding changing your rear camera from back up only to full time monitor I think you will find that the power line to the camera is connected to the reverse light circuit, and you will have to change that to a ignition on circuit.

expert reply by:
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Les D

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