Trailer Right Brake Light On All the Time, 12 Volts on All Pins on Trailer Towed by 2008 Dodge Nitro

Question

Question:

I used your T connector kit on a 2008 Dodge Nitro and everything was fine the first two times I towed, now though I have the right brake light on the trailer constantly on and 12 volts at all pins at the connector at rear of car with no trailer even connected? Left turn, running and brake are fine but the right stay full power brake all the time except when I hit the brakes then it dims while the left side brightens? Help...is it a bad power controller? Ive only had it for a month and this is the 3rd time connecting the trailer when I saw this issue.

asked by: Greg

0

Expert Reply:

It sounds like there was a short or there is still a short that is causing some problems. To determine if the problem is on the vehicle side or the trailer side there is a test you can do. First unplug the trailer from your 2008 Dodge Nitro. Then use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to test the wires going into the converter box and the wires coming out.

Someone will need to sit in the vehicle and activate the lighting functions while you test. If all of the wires are correct coming from the vehicle to the converter, then you can move on to the output side. If the functions are not correct going into the converter from the vehicle, then the issue is something on the vehicle (not likely).

If the functions are correct on the input side but not correct when you test the output side of the converter, then the converter is bad and will have to be replaced.

But, if it was a short then you will also want to inspect the trailer wiring for any pinched or damaged wires or the problem will keep happening.

If everything works as it should on the vehicle side, then the issue must be on the trailer. Make sure the connector on the trailer is clean and free of corrosion. Inspect the wiring for any pinched or damaged wires and fix as needed. Check to make sure the grounds for the trailer connector and all of the lights are attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces.

If there is anything between a light ground and the metal trailer frame or if the trailer has an aluminum frame, tilt bed, or folding tongue, any of these things can interrupt the ground. Running jumper wires from the light grounds to the main trailer connector ground can help.

expert reply by: Michael H

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Answer 1

You should be getting 12 volts from each function when that function is active. The amperage will be less and can vary between functions. You can use a multimeter like #PT89ZR to check this. If you have a specific part number you want me to check…

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Answer 2

When you test the 4-Way on the Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness, part #56016, at the rear of your vehicle, it should show now power on all 3 pins with the lights off. If you have the vehicle head lights on, you should have around 12 volts at the…

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Answer 3

It sounds like the ground connection often in the mounting hardware of your lights is not connected well. This ground needs to be bare metal to metal and free of all corrosion and debris. If with a clean ground you still are not getting the desired…

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Answer 4

Thank you for your recent purchase from etrailer. I see that you ordered Curt 4-pole wiring harness #C56291. This is a correct fit for the 2016 Honda Pilot that has the factory tow package. The ground remains the most likely cause for no signals on…

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Answer 5

This could certainly be a grounding issue. When a circuit does not have a sufficient ground, it can cause many different issues. If possible, I recommend checking all of the grounds for your trailer taillights. You will want to make sure the ground…

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Answer 6

Generally you see this situation on a vehicle that has LED lights because there is a power bleed coming from a different circuit into the lighting circuit. LED lights require a lot less power than incandescents, that's one of the biggest benefits…

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Answer 7

Finding continuity to ground on the running light circuit of your trailer indicates that the circuit has a short to the frame of the trailer most likely and is your problem. What you'll need to do is trace the circuit starting at the assemblies…

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Answer 8

Based on what you described it sounds like the running light circuit is somehow shorting out between the trailer connector and the light assemblies. A lot of trailer lighting issues are ground related, but since your brake lights are functioning the…

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Answer 9

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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Answer 10

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

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Answer 11

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

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Answer 12

You will have to go with a sliding hitch to allow the trailer to make tight turns. For a trailer 8 feet wide the only bed length that's going to allow 90 degree turns without a slider is a stationary hitch. That being said you have two options.…

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