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Why do I Have Jerky Trailer Brakes After Driving A While with a Draw-Tite # 5504 Brake Controller  

Question:

I find it very difficult to adjust my controller correctly. When I think its set and after driving about 40 miles or so it makes me think I really have a problem. When stopping at red lights my truck gets real jerky almost to the point where I which I could just turn the controller off. Why doesnt it happen when Im setting it but does it after everything is warmed up. Thanks, Roy

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Expert Reply:

One possible cause for the trailer brakes becoming jerky after warming up could be that you adjusted the brakes while they are cold. It is recommended that the trailer brakes be warmed, by applying the brake with the manual lever for a short period while driving at slow speed in a safe area. Once the brakes have been warmed you can then adjust the controller for proper operation.

Other possibilities are that the delay could be set to long on your time delayed controller. Try setting the delay to activate sooner. There could be a short on the blue brake feed circuit between the brake controller and the trailer brakes. In this case you will need to locate the short and repair the wire. You could have worn brake magnets. In this case you would need to pull the hub and check the magnets for copper windings showing through the surface of the magnet or irregular wear. You could have worn brake shoes causing sticking and jerky braking when they are heated up.

Finally, there could be and internal problem in the brake controller itself. I would test the blue output wire when the controller is acting up. Pull over and use a circuit tester, item # PTW2993 if needed, to test the blue wire while applying the brakes. If the light on the tester is acting erratically sever the blue brake wire close to the back of the brake controller. Leave enough wire to re-attach the wire when testing is complete. Once the wire is severed test the blue wire coming out of the controller again. if the controller still acts erratically then there is most likely something wrong inside the controller. If the controller now functions normally, you know the problem is on the output side and will lie in the blue wire, brakes or trailer brake magnets.

If you find you need a new controller highly recommend going with the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 # 90195 which is the latest and greatest from Tekonsha and will be a much more comfortable/reliable controller due to being a proportional unit that matches braking to the force you apply the brakes on your tow vehicle as opposed to the time delay style of your discontinued Activator.

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Bob G

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