It sounds like you've isolated the issue to your 7 way connection on the truck, and the left turn signal/brake light is controlled by the circuit at 9 o'clock when looking at the front of your vehicle's 7 way connection (most likely a yellow or red wire).
I would start with making sure that the ground wire (white) on your 7 way is connected firmly to a rust and paint free spot on the vehicle's frame; it's entirely possible that the ground wire is loose and causing this issue. You'll also... view full answer...
Since the brake lights are only sending power to the pin on the ZCI # 119250KIT when you have the hatch opened on your 2012 Audi Q5 that leads me to believe that you have some wiring that is pinched somewhere. The ZCI should be getting constant power from your vehicle battery and then should activate those different lighting functions once they have established what wire is for what function (instructions say approx 5 seconds so a little longer is okay). I would recheck all of your connections... view full answer...
It sounds like the white wire is not being grounded. You will need to run that to a clean metal surface and then the 4-way should function correctly.
I attached an installation video for this product for you to check out that shows how this product installs onto a vehicle for you to check out also. view full answer...
I contacted our representative at Tekonsha and he gave me a few recommendations for you to determine what the problem is with your trailer brakes locking up.
First, he suggested that you check the Breakaway Switch wire on your trailer to make sure the pin is not loose or has come disconnected.
If that is not the problem, you will want to connect the trailer to the vehicle and then cut the blue wire 4 to 6 inches away from the brake controller. If the brakes on your trailer release after... view full answer...
Traditionally 7 way vehicle connectors are wired as follows:
1:00 Black, 12 Volt Battery Power
3:00 Green, Right Turn and Brake
5:00 Blue, Brake Controller
7:00 White, Ground
9:00 Yellow, Left Turn and Brake
11:00 Brown, Tail and Running Lights
Center Pole is usually a Purple wire that is run to reverse lights
It sounds like your vehicle connector is wired by function correctly, but there could be a problem with some of the wiring at the connector.
You are going to want to use a Circuit... view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at Fulton regarding the problems you're having with the two screws holding the caster for the Fulton XLT Trailer Jack # F141133 in place. He said he has not seen this before but it's definitely not normal. He said the two screws should be 1/4-28 and snug fit to the threaded holes on the jack. There isn't a particular torque spec that needs to be used but they should be tightened until snug.
If the screws continue to back out like this my contact said it might... view full answer...
The problems you are describing sound like a classic ground issue on the trailer. A weak ground connection somewhere isn't allowing for enough power to travel to the trailer lights when you also have the running lights on in the vehicle and it's also relying on a ground connection with the trailer ball, which shouldn't be the case.
What I recommend doing is checking the main harness ground on the trailer to make sure it's securely connected to a clean, bare metal surface that's free of... view full answer...
It sounds like you had not just a breakaway pin pulled but a wiring issue. If not, the breakaway wasn't connected to your trailer correctly as the brakes should be activated but the trailer tail lights wouldn't be. To me it sounds like the pin is connected to the brake lights and not the brake magnets. I've attached an article to help with the connections and have also attached a couple videos and a diagram. It sounds like you may need the Hopkins Replacement Break-Away Switch, 7"... view full answer...
The infrared night vision feature on the Furrion Vision S Wireless RV Backup Camera # FOS43TASF is automatic. It will engage when the light level is too low for standard operation. However, my contact at Furrion said that if a vehicle is driving closely behind you at night (with its headlights on, naturally) this light can fool the camera into thinking infrared operation is not needed. If the night vision does not operate even in total darkness then there may be an internal fault. view full answer...
Since your hardwired Hopkins Agility # HM47295 trailer brake controller powers the trailer brakes when you press the red manual override button but NOT when you press the brake pedal this tell us that the issue is related to the connection of the controller's red wire. But please note that since this controller is the proportional type it will NOT generate output from the brake pedal unless you are moving. When you are still only the manual control will generate output.
The red wire must... view full answer...
I did not catch exactly what tonneau cover you are referring to but the photo you attached makes me think you have the Extang Solid Fold 2.0 Hard Tonneau Cover. If that is the case then what you are going to want to do is replace the cab clamps with the Replacement Jaw Grip Clamp for Extang Solid Fold 2.0 Tonneau Covers part # EX42FJ. I spoke with Extang and they said that over time the threads can become damaged due to over tightening which would then allow the bolt to come unthreaded... view full answer...
The good news is you have narrowed it down to the issue being on your truck and have done some good troubleshooting already.
If you are not going getting power to the electric brake pin and running light pin, the very first thing you want to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order and replace if needed.
If those are fine the issue is likely a short in your wires going to those pins from your truck... view full answer...
The black wire coming from your brake controller should be ran to the positive post of the truck's battery. This is what actually powers the controller and the wire, if hooked up properly, should always have power. The fact that it's only receiving power when the brake pedal is depressed can really only mean that it's been attached to the wrong circuit and not the battery.
I simply recommend tracing the wiring from the controller to make sure all the correct connections have been made.... view full answer...
I do have advice, which is to do quite a bit of troubleshooting and this may help you figure out the problem. The first thing to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order. If they are, in order to determine the specific problem you will need to purchase a circuit tester if you do not have one - the very handy Cordless Circuit Tester # PTW2979 would be my strong recommendation due to how easy it is to... view full answer...
The difference between sensitivity and max output for the Curt Echo brake controller part # C51180 is that max output is the max braking power the controller would put out if it felt like it needed to apply them as hard as possible. So this needs to be the setting that gives you the max braking power before the tires of the trailer lock up. Sensitivity is how reactive you want the controller to be to vehicle braking. Once you set the max output you then tweak this setting so that the trailer... view full answer...
If you are getting the "Warning! Overload No Brakes" screen when using the Prodigy P3 # 90195 with the HydraStar # HBA-10 then the problem is that there is excessive current overload happening. What you need to do is check your 2008 Dodge Ram 3500 and trailer 7-Way connectors for any corrosion and clean it out. Once that is done you can apply some dielectric grease # 11755 to help prevent this from happening again.
If you are still getting this warning then you need to check your grounds... view full answer...
When a brake controller like the Primus IQ # TK90160 indicates "n.c." this means something is interrupting the circuit connection between the controller's output (on the blue wire) and the trailer's brake magnets. Lots of things could cause this issue, anything from a bad wiring ground connection at the vehicle or trailer, corrosion on or inside the vehicle or trailer connectors, a bad ground at the brake magnets or simply a damaged or pinched wire.
Since the "n.c." appears on the controller... view full answer...
With your 2015 Ford F-150 it sounds like there is a bad ground on your trailer or a bad connection. First I recommend using some sand paper on your wiring connection to ensure there is good contract between the pins free of corrosion and debris.
The Hopkins Endurance 4-Way Flat Trailer Wiring Harness - 20' Long # HM48240 may be connected correctly and work well with a different vehicle that has a different power output, but often when there is an issue like you are describing it's a... view full answer...
If your Curt TriFlex Trailer Brake Controller # C24VV is only showing "L." and you have tried adjusting the sensitivity to no avail then there is one other thing you can try. You can attempt to reset the controller by unplugging it from its power source for a number of minutes and then plug it back in though you need to make sure the trailer isn't plugged in when you are doing this.
Should this not work then there was likely a short somewhere that damaged the controller's display and... view full answer...
It sounds like you are trying to install a brake controller on your 2000 GMC Sierra. If that is the case then there is actually a plug in adapter available like the Tekonsha Plug-In Wiring Adapter for Electric Brake Controllers part # 3025-P depending on what brake controller you have. If this is what you are using and you have a factory 7-way then the likely cause of your problem is a blown CHMSL fuse. If the trailer brakes works with the manual override but not with the brake pedal then... view full answer...
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