Ford would certainly tell you that you must use the specific Ford relay for your 2007 Lincoln Navigator. A generic one that is rated and configured the same as that Ford relay should work just fine. But this one that was installed had to be modified and sounds like there is a good chance that it is not the right type of relay and could be the reverse polarity of the one that is needed. That would cause the fuse to blow. I recommend getting the right relay from a Ford dealer.
You will also... view full answer...
In a typical vehicle 7-way socket the blue wire for the brake circuit (carried on the pin at the 5-o-clock position) will carry the trailer brake signal from the brake controller back to the 7-way socket.
Whether or not you will detect a signal on that blue wire when the Navigator is still and with no trailer connected depends on the type of controller. A time-delay type controller like # 39523 will send out its selected power output whether you are moving or still, either by pressing... view full answer...
The first thing to do would be to use a circuit tester like our part # 3808 and test the running light function on your vehicle to determine if the problem is on your vehicle or if its on your trailer. Check out the video I attached on how this is done. If voltage is there then you know the problem is on your trailer.
The first place to check there would be the trailer connector. If there is corrosion or cut or exposed wire you will need to fix as necessary. From there trace the running... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Curt about the Wiring Harness, # C55373, on your 2000 Lincoln LS. The good news is that there is nothing wrong with the wiring harness. What is happening is that on your model vehicle (and a handful of others) there is what is called a battery saver mode that kicks in about 20 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off. With the trailer connected, it thinks that it still needs to deliver power and that will cause the light to light up on the trailer.
My... view full answer...
Unlike the Navigator, the 2003 Lincoln Aviator does not have a factory tow port under the dash. This means you will need to hardwire your # 90885 for installation. If you would rather not perform a hardwire installation, the only option would be to use a brake controller like the Curt Echo # C51180. This plugs in-line with the 7-way at the rear of the vehicle so no real installation or wiring is required. view full answer...
What you're describing is the classic symptom of a ground problem. Everything works fine until the headlights are turned on, which is when the maximum amperage is drawn through the system. That's when a ground problem will rear its ugly head.
On the vehicle side of the equation, there's a white ground wire exiting the converter box. Make sure that's connected to clean, bare metal on the vehicle. If there's any corrosion or undercoating or dirt that's preventing the back side of that ring... view full answer...
You will want to check the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles # HM56002 to ensure that it is working properly. To do that, you will want to use a circuit tester # PTW2993 and test that you have power on the wires before the converter and after the converter. If you have power going into the converter but not out, then there is something wrong with the wiring harness.
If you do not have power before the harness, then you will want to check your vehicle to track down... view full answer...
If you were to unplug the harness and plug the tail lights back in as normal do the reverse lights work then? If so then there is something wrong inside the wiring harness # C56329 and it will need to be replaced. You can also use harness # 118551.
If the reverse lights still do not work then consult the vehicle owners manual for the location of the fuse and/or relay for the reverse lights and see if it has blown. If it has blown replace the fuse and if it blows again with the wiring harness... view full answer...
You won't need any type of converter when installing the Curt Universal Tail Light Wiring Kit # C63CR on your 2013 Lincoln MKS. However there is a distinct process that you'll want to follow to determine how this system will be installed that tells you whether you've got a 2 or 3 wire system and how to install the unit. It sounds like you might have installed this in a 3 wire configuration but there is no power on the turn signals.
I would start by checking any and all ground wires that... view full answer...
If the light on the Curt Echo Mobile Trailer Brake Controller part # C51180 does not illuminate once plugged-in then you most likely have an issue with the 12 volt power circuit on your 2007 Lincoln Navigator. I recommend removing the Echo and then testing the 1 o'clock pin on the 7-way with a circuit tester. If you don't have 12 volts here then you either have a wire short or blown fuse. view full answer...
There could be several things that may cause issues with the brakes. Since you stated that you have always had the problem with the brakes slow release, I think the issue may be the controller. You said you have disc brakes on your trailer. This would require you to have an electric over hydraulic brake controller installed with your system. Based on the age of the controller, I would think that it is not compatible with the hydraulic brake system on the trailer. The first thing I would... view full answer...
The first place you want to check is the connector on your motorhome. I'm not sure if you have a 4-Way or 7-Way connector but I have attached diagrams of each for you to reference. Simply use a circuit tester like part # PTW2979 to verify that the left turn pin is actually receiving power. If it isn't receiving power then you need to check for any fuses or relays on your motorhome that are related to the trailer left turn signal and make sure they are in good working order. If they are... view full answer...
It sounds like you're not getting a signal on the brake light circuit anywhere on the plug of the Curt # C56258 and there are a few things you can check out here.
I would start by just making sure that the ground wire is secured to a paint and rust free spot on the vehicle's frame; this all could just be a situation where the ground isn't sufficient to power the brake lights. Next, you'll want to start testing out the wiring behind the harness on the Curt # C56258 and then where it plugs... view full answer...
According to page 152 of the owner's manual for your 2013 Lincoln MKX by putting the vehicle in accessory mode it allows some electrical accessories to still operate even though the engine isn't running. I'm not sure what needs to keep running but since the manual doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery I don't advise doing so as it would essentially be the same as turning your vehicle off.
What I do recommend doing is using the Flexo-Coil Wiring Kit # RM-15267 alongside the... view full answer...
There are a few things that could be causing your trailer brakes to preform poorly.
As a start, make sure your trailer is not overloaded. If it is a 2 axle trailer with brakes only on one axle, you might consider adding brakes to the second axle. Even though the weight carried on the trailer might not be exceeding the trailer axle capacity, one braking axle might not be enough to efficiently stop the trailer when it is loaded.
It is possible that your brake output wire is of too small... view full answer...
The tires on the Yakima Rack and Roll trailers # Y08106 and # Y08107 are indeed specified for inflation pressure of 40-psi. To lose about half that pressure after a year-and-a-half of storage is not at all surprising, but for the two tires that lost all of their pressure I suggest some further testing before you embark on your 2400-mile trip.
You did the right thing by inflating all three tires to the specified 40-psi pressure so you can keep an eye on them for a few days. If they hold... view full answer...
If you have no light signals at all at your 4-pole connector (no turn, tail or brake lights) then either the powered converter in this harness may have been damaged in the first installation effort, there is a faulty 12V input power connection to the converter, a bad ground connection or there is a problem within the wiring in the vehicle or trailer.
The installation instructions are included in this email in case you no longer have the original printed copy. I have also linked an article... view full answer...
This sounds like the typically tail light replacement where you hook stuff up color to color, and not function to function.
You need to verify with a circuit tester like # PTW2993 that the connector on your vehicle is working correctly first. If you have all the correct functions on the correct pins (check out the attached help article) then the issue is with the trailer wiring, but if your factory connector is not working right then it's something on the vehicle side.
Assuming the vehicle... view full answer...
The OL or overload error code indicates a short in the brake output circuit. Start by examining the trailer connector. Make sure that the pins on the vehicle side of the connection and the sockets on the trailer side are not damaged or corroded. If you can see green corrosion on the pins or the sockets, there is a possibility that the corrosion may have spread to the interior of the connector itself, causing a short. Trace the output circuit back from the connector to the trailer brake... view full answer...
The wiring harness we offer for your 2000 Lincoln LS is part # C55373 from Curt, it has a 12V power wire that needs to be run up to the car's battery to deliver the actual power for the trailer lights. The Curt harness you referenced, part # C56160, works the same way, although it is NOT a confirmed fit for your 2000 Lincoln LS (it fits the MKX only). Hopefully this is not the harness that was installed.
Based on the (very) odd behavior of your trailer's driver-side brake light, it sounds... view full answer...
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