I'm sorry to hear about the Furrion Vision S draining your RV's battery!
The Furrion Vision S should be installed into the running light circuit of your travel trailer which will keep the Furrion Vision S from having power unless the vehicle is connected and the running lights are turned on.
Since you have power to the Furrion Vision S that means it is wired to a constant power supply. The only option to disconnect it is to unhook your RV's battery terminals when you are not towing it... view full answer...
The reason the factory reverse light dims when the # PL807 illuminates is because both lamps are sharing a power supply circuit. The supply circuit can only provide so much power, and when you add another lamp to the circuit, the amount of power available to be delivered to each lamp decreases. view full answer...
Since you have the factory 7-Way and brake controller wiring, I would imagine everything is correct on the truck. Additionally, using the custom fit brake control harness, part # 20265, eliminates concern of the brake controller being wired incorrectly unless the harness is faulty which is very unlikely. I would use the instructions for # 20265 to make sure that the pins are in the proper location. I have linked to these instructions below.
The single decimal point, as you may already... view full answer...
The Curt Echo part # C51180 does not require any signal from the brake output signal on the truck. You simply need to have 12 volt power on the accessory circuit of the truck. If the Echo is not coming on you need to check the fuse panel and make sure that you have a fuse in the trailer accessory position. This will send power to the 7-way plug and allow the Echo to come on and operate properly. view full answer...
First I recommend double checking a few things on your current T-style 4 way connector installed on your 2006 Toyota Tacoma before replacing it.
I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to verify the wires going into the converter box, and leaving the converter box with the trailer hooked up and the vehicle lights on.
If you are not getting power into the converter box I recommend double checking the fuses for your trailer lights in your Tacoma to verify they are not blown, and... view full answer...
Okay, so there's a few things you can do to troubleshoot why your running lights are not working after installing your new lights, and while a ground is likely the issue, let's just go ahead and be thorough here. While the dealer may have said the wiring on the truck wasn't the issue, you didn't mention fuses, so start with that; take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order.
If so, you'll need a circuit tester... view full answer...
The converter box of your wiring harness is looking for the amount of amperage on the circuits that is associated with incandescent bulbs. Since you switch to LEDs that draw considerably less the trailer wiring isn't functioning. You can either go back to your incandescent bulbs to fix the problem or you can install a different taillight harness like part # 119250KIT that is designed to work with LED taillights. view full answer...
You may have had the castle nut too tight. If it was tight to the point that making it tighter would have bent the rotor then it was too tight. When you tighten the castle nut to hold the hub/rotor on you will tighten it with the appropriate wrench until it is tight then back if off to the nearest slot to put the cotter pin or tang on the washer in.
Ceramic pads will run cooler and generally can last longer and is a good upgrade from traditional brake pad material.
You also may way to... view full answer...
The etrailer Round Snap Ring Swivel Jack w/ Footplate # TJB-2001S-B is a swivel jack that is designed to be welded on to the frame of a trailer.
If you are looking to use hardware to install a jack rather than welding the jack to the frame, I recommend the Pro Series Round Swivel Jack # PS1400300303. The Pro Series jack is a bolt-on swivel jack that includes the hardware needed to mount to your trailer frame. This jack will fit frames up to 3 x 4 inches. The jack is similar in cost and... view full answer...
It sounds like the converter is bad on your Curt T-connector # C55379. Since you re-grounded it, the harness should function correctly unless there is an issue with the converter because your vehicle lights are working. I recommend going with the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118379. If you have the same issue with this connector, then there is more to your issue than the harness and we will need to do further testing, but right now it does... view full answer...
The SportRack Ridge Swing 4 Bike Rack # SR2415 has the Anti-Rattle Hitch Lock for SportRack Bike Racks and Cargo Carriers - 1-1/4" and 2" Hitches # SR0901 as you referenced as a related part. I have not heard about this not working on this rack before and that is the longest locking pin available for that rack, which makes me wonder if your trailer hitch receiver is uniquely wide. If so, you may want to consider using an adapter for the rack like Hitch Extender for 2" Trailer Hitches... view full answer...
The first step I would take is to replace the 14 gauge wire for the electric brakes with either 10 or 12 gauge wire. It is not recommended to use wire smaller than 12 gauge on electric brake and battery charge circuits on trailers. The smaller gauge wire should not cause a significant voltage drop by itself, but it could easily overheat and cause problems in the future.
The next step would be to inspect your ground connections. Be sure everything is grounded to a clean, bare metal surface.... view full answer...
If you are only getting 4 volts on the output side of wiring harness # 118496 then there are a couple of things to check. First, check that the ground is attached to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface. No paint or undercoating either. Also, it works best if it is grounded by itself and not with other items.
If this does not help then you will want to test the converter. To do this use your meter to test the voltage going in the converter and then the voltage coming out. If you... view full answer...
Since the trailer is working just fine with another pickup you will want to check any fuses or relays that carry the trailer lighting functions. I tried looking this up in the online version of the owner's manual for your 2017 Toyota Tacoma but there isn't a list for what the various fuse locations are for. These may be listed on the cover for the fuse compartment.
If the fuses and relays look good then you need to use a tester like part # PTW2992 to check the pins on your 4-Way like part... view full answer...
I reached out to my contact at Extang and was told that air may be getting underneath the Extang Trifecta 2.0 Soft Tonneau Cover # EX92830. To fix this issue, drop the tailgate and look inside the bed to see if you can see light coming through in the front. If you see exposed light, Extang recommends using weather seal to seal off areas where light is exposed. With everything sealed up properly you should not have further issues.
Using a product like the Replacement Cab Seal for Extang... view full answer...
The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C56349 is the confirmed fit for a 2018 Toyota Tacoma. The adapter on a US vehicle will give you an adapter that will reach each side correctly. There should be a connection on each side of the vehicle as shown in the attached video. You will need to make sure the connections are made on the correct side as they cannot be reversed for proper connection and function. view full answer...
The LED lights that are appearing on the Hopkins 7-Way # HM48503 are at least letting you know that power is reaching the 7-Way on your truck. The strange part as you mentioned is that it is essentially indicating that all lighting functions are being powered with any single function activated on the Tacoma.
This along with the fact that none of the lights on the trailer are working means that your best option at this point is going to be to first manually test the 7-Way on the truck... view full answer...
It sounds like there is a short somewhere in the wiring. First, make sure that both the vehicle side and trailer side connectors are free of dirt and corrosion. If the connector is corroded or dirty, it can cause excess power draw and blow a fuse. Simply clean out as needed.
To start testing on the vehicle, you will want the change all of the blown fuses and then using a circuit tester like # PTW2993, test the vehicle side connector. You'll need some help so someone in the vehicle can... view full answer...
What you are describing sounds like a short in the converter box for Curt wiring harness # C56349 for your 2016 Toyota Tacoma. Since this is the second time this has happened it could indicate that there is something on the trailer that is causing the box to short out so I do recommend inspecting the trailer wiring and fixing any broken or pinched wires or anything else that seems problematic.
I also recommend switching to the Curt harness, # C56349, because we hear about less problems... view full answer...
There are a few possible reasons why the electric brake assemblies are getting hot on your teardrop camper.
The first thing I recommend checking is is the bearings and spindle on your trailer. It's possible that the hub itself is actually what is getting hot and not the actual brake assembly. Check to see if you can see any wear or damage on the bearings and for any discoloration that could be caused by overheating on the trailer spindle.
If everything looks okay, then we can move onto... view full answer...
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