If you have already used a Brush # 814113 with some penetrating oil to clean the weld nut on your 2007 Honda CR-V free of rust and debris your next step would be to use a M10 X 1.25 tap to attempt to clean out or fixed the damaged threads. This may be something best left to a professional depending on your comfort and skill level since if the tap goes in cross threaded it will destroy the good threads left in the weld nut. If that happens the weld nut would have to be replaced.
Then you... view full answer...
From what I understand, at first, none of the lights worked. Now, with a trailer connected and the running lights on, you get a hot signal with every connection. First, you will have to disconnect the trailer to do some testing. Start by using a circuit tester to test the wires going in to the converter. Test each function separately. Turn signals, tail lights and stop lights. If these are all correct, move on to the wires coming out of the converter.
Test each function again for these... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha who said that you shouldn't be experiencing a problem with your liftgate on your 2017 Honda CR-V after installing the Tekonsha T-One # 118741. If you possibly cut or moved some wiring around other than what you needed to for the installation then that could very well be why you are having problems.
I was able to see that you also purchased the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76128 for your CR-V as well. If the problem is that you are having... view full answer...
Before wiring your 2001 Honda CR-V with diodes, you will need to determine if it has combined tail light wiring or separate tail light wiring. Combined tail light wiring carries the turn and brake signals on the same circuit and one bulb on each side of the vehicle carries the running lights, brake lights, and turn signal functions behind a red lens.
On a vehicle with a separate tail light wiring system, the turn signals are on a separate circuit from brake lights, often carried behind... view full answer...
It sounds like the problem is in the ground circuit. Any time we have seen taillight circuits stop working when headlights get turned on we know the problem is the ground circuit.
Since your ground wire got ripped off at one point I would make sure it is reconnected well. And you should make sure your taillight assemblies are grounded well to a clean metal surface. Some assemblies ground through the mounting hardware so you would want to make sure they are installed onto a clean metal... view full answer...
Sounds like the fuse of the red fuse holder isn't installed in the harness to activate it. Without this the entire harness will not have power.
There is also another fuse that needs to get installed under the dash. It is a 10 amp fuse that gets installed in position 10 in this fuse block. Check to make sure it is installed properly in the correct location.
I attached a picture that shows where it will get installed. view full answer...
Use your circuit tester to test the wiring directly at the back of the lights. If the power is not getting to that point then there is a wiring issue that you will need to track down and repair. If power is getting to the light and the light is not coming on then the issue is either a weak or bad ground or there is something wrong with the light.
The ground needs to be attached to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface. Try moving the ground to a different location or run a jumper... view full answer...
When folding up the Hollywood Racks Destination Bike Rack # HLY94FR, make sure you are inserting the pin into the large hole, not the small hole. You may need to position the platform more in the upright position than it is in the photo in order to thread the pin back into the rack.
It is hard to tell in the photo you attached, but I don't any issue based on that photo. Try doing what I mentioned above and if you are still having issues then let me know and also attach some more photos... view full answer...
First, if you are getting any voltage on the white wire that indicates a short to ground and could mean that there is a problem with the converter. But if you are getting voltage just on the brown, yellow, and green wires around 12 volts then it is working properly. I have included a link to an FAQ article that will help you troubleshoot the vehicle side trailer wiring harness.
On a 4-Way, the white wire is the ground, brown is running lights, yellow is left turn and brake light, and green... view full answer...
On your 2017 Honda CR-V, the Draw-Tite # 76128 is the correct fit. To install that center bolt, you may need to loosen the bolts on either side. The attached instructions state to install the bolts on the sides loosely and then insert the center bolt through the tow hook and then tighten the fasteners and torque them to manufacturer specs of 75 ft lbs. If you did not follow this order, the alignment of your hitch may be slightly off and not allow that bolt through the tow hook.
If you... view full answer...
Without knowing when you bought your Noco # 329-GB50XL, I can't determine your warranty status, but I can tell you that it has a one-year limited warranty.
I looked at the Instructions-Details.PDF on our product page and there are not any serviceable parts or user replaceable fuse. That leaves you to determine if it is user error or product failure. I would consider the following trouble shooting steps. (1.) When you attempt to use the jumper do ANY lights show up on the jump starter?... view full answer...
The Draw-Tite Class III Hitch, # 76128, is confirmed to fit the 2017 Honda CR-V with the Hands-Free Tailgate feature. You will not have to return the vehicle to your dealer.
To operate the tailgate you will have to swipe you foot on either side of the of where the hitch receiver opening. view full answer...
It sounds like you are potentially connected to the wrong brake switch wire on your 2014 Honda CR-V. There is likely more than one wire that will have power when you step on the brake pedal. The wire you are looking for is most likely blue, but you will still want to test using a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 if you need one.
The wire should only have power when the brake pedal is pressed and not when the headlights or turn signals are on.
The connection to the proper brake switch... view full answer...
Have you tried the test procedure outlined in the install manual that is supposed to be done everytime it's used?
Before you begin towing, a simple test should be
performed to assure your Alert System is operating
properly. Have someone push the Auto Start button
on the Brake Buddy®. The Receiver should illuminate
upon activation. The Alert Receiver will illuminate: (1)
when the Auto Start button is pressed; (2) when the
Brake Buddy® activates as a result of forward inertia (i.e., the... view full answer...
If you aren't getting taillights when using the # HM56304 it could be that the harness is not in the correct spot like you said. The only other reason I can think of is the harness connectors not being fully seated. view full answer...
It could be just a blown tow package fuse. Use the vehicle owners manual to find the locations of the fuses related to the tow package wiring to check them. If fuses are not the problem then I recommend taking the vehicle to a Honda Dealer to troubleshoot the problem since it is a Honda wiring harness. It could be that something shorted out in the converter and if that is the case the whole harness would have to be replaced. view full answer...
Hubs do have different depths. The key to choosing the right hub is matching up the weight capacity needed for the axle and matching the bearing set used. This ensures they will fit properly on your spindles and be able to handle the load put on them. You also want to match your wheel bolt pattern. All of our hubs are linked for you.
It is best to service trailer bearings at regular intervals, as outlined in the linked article. It is possible that the bearings failed from inadequate lubrication.... view full answer...
In order to troubleshoot the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector part # C56158 which is a fit for a 2016 Honda CR-V you'll need a test light. Once you have this you'll then need to probe the running light wire going into the converter box with the signal NOT active. If you have power here then you know the issue is on the vehicle. If you don't have power here then test the running light wire leaving the converter box. If you have power here then you... view full answer...
If you have not detected a short or a faulty ground then the likely issue is that the factory wiring that you plugged the harness into must have some feature that does not allow the harness to be fully functional if the motor is turned off.
Presumably though if the motor is off then you wouldn't be moving and the brake lights and turn signals do not have to work. But for testing purposes, that would be a little annoying.
You can test the 4-Way further by following the help article I... view full answer...
First thing you should do at this point is test the 4-way of the wiring harness with a circuit tester part # PTW2993 for voltage on all of the right pins when the taillight signals are being applied. Just like in the video I attached.
If the voltage checks out there but the trailer lights still don't function right then the problem is on the trailer wiring. That would mean that problem is either due to a ground issue or a short issue.
Make sure that the trailer side and vehicle side connectors... view full answer...
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