It does sound like the converter went out on your Curt Harness # C56120. Do be sure to check the main power wire and fuse that runs to the battery. If this is damaged it would also cause the same issue but all the lights would fail to operate if the wiring or fuse is damaged.
I recommend replacing it with a Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118515 as I have found in my experience that the Tekonsha's use a better power converter and have less issues down the road than other brands. view full answer...
If you've already tried using the silicon spray and there is still no luck, then your best bet is to have the lock cores replaced, unfortunately.
What you're going to need to is either call a locksmith and have them remove the key or you can drill out the cores yourself.
From here, you can replace the frozen lock with the:
-Thule One-Key System Lock Cylinders # TH450200.
Since this kit includes two lock cores with two keys, I recommend swapping the other core out as well with the included... view full answer...
Sounds like the problem is actually on the trailer side of the equation. Most likely the grounds on the driver side of the trailer wiring are insufficient and causing the lights to illuminate dimly.
Make sure that the trailer side connector are clean and free of corrosion inside and out. The main connector grounds should be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. The light grounds should also be attached to clean and corrosion free bare metal surfaces. If there is anything... view full answer...
Your 2011 Ford Edge requires the key to be in the accessory position while towing. The accessory position allows the electrical accessories such as the radio to operate while the engine is not running. These electrical accessories could be draining your vehicle while towing.
To prevent these accessories from draining your battery, you can pull the fuses for accessories activated while in the accessory position, or you can install a fuse bypass like the Roadmaster FuseMaster Fuse Bypass... view full answer...
There are a couple of things that can lead to the tires wearing on the inside only. Basically what is happening is the top of the tire is leaning in towards the trailer causing most of the weight to ride on the inside. This pretty much means the axle is bent, especially if both sides have the same problem. If it were just one side, there is a chance that is just the spindle that is bent. It will keep wearing on the inside until the issue is resolved and that could mean a new axle.
You... view full answer...
Since the diodes in the Demco 4-Diode Universal Towed Vehicle Wiring Kit w/ 7-Wire to 6-Wire Coiled Connector # DM9523010-54 use spade terminal connectors the easiest way to test the diode would be to swap the connections on the diode in question and test your light functions to see if the terminal on the diode is the issue.
If it randomly stopped working then the cause is typically just a loose connection or a bad ground so I would check the connections and make sure there's no damage... view full answer...
This sounds like a classic ground issue that could be the result of a bad or corroded connection, a loose wire, or a dirty/corroded trailer connector. The act of towing the trailer causes some movement and the ground connection changes slightly to where it was working when you had stopped.
What you will want to do is make sure the main ground on the converter on the vehicle is connected to a clean bare metal surface. Verify with a circuit tester like # PTW2993 if needed that the running... view full answer...
Sounds like there are some blown trailer wiring fuses/relays under the hood of your 2015 Nissan Xterra that are in need of replacing.
Check all of the fuse boxes under the hood of your vehicle for the trailer wiring circuits and replace as needed.
There may have been a short on your trailer's wiring that caused the short as well so be sure to check the wiring of the trailer for the short before you reconnect the trailer to your Xterra. view full answer...
There is one sure way to determine if the factory trailer wiring harness on your 2013 Ford Edge is pushing back enough power. You will need a multimeter such as # PT89ZR. Have someone sit in the vehicle and go through the light functions while testing for amperage.
You would also need to determine how many amps each light draws. Then with some simple math you can figure out if the trailer is drawing too much power to power the lights when the running lights are on.
An easier way to do... view full answer...
With the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118669 installed on your 2017 Ford Edge SE or SEL you will first want to ensure that your brake lights on your Edge are still working when you press the brake pedal. This will ensure that a fuse wasn't damaged on your Edge.
Since your Edge shares the same tail light circuit for the turn signals and brake lights similar to how the tail lights on your trailer work we know that power is going into the powered module on the harness. You can... view full answer...
It sounds like your 2017 Ford Edge thinks that a bulb or bulbs are out which would explain why the one side blinks quickly and the other side does nothing. Trailer wiring harness # C56292 is designed for the Sport and Titanium models of the Edge so if you have an SE or SEL I recommend # 118669.
If you do have a Sport or Titanium then check to make sure the white ground wire is attached to a clean and corrosion free bare metal surface. There can't be any kind of coating on the ground surface... view full answer...
On your 2015 Ford Edge SEL, the dealer must have disconnected your sensors. You can check the wiring behind your bumper to see if they removed the wiring harness or simply pulled the connections apart. The Ford Edge models that do not have the factory hitch and have the hands free lift gate work just fine with an aftermarket hitch...you just can't open the tailgate by putting your foot in the middle where the receiver is. To either side of center works just fine with an aftermarket hitch... view full answer...
First you should know that miles will accumulate on your 2015 Ford Edge whether it has power or not. But the vehicle having power when the negative cable is disconnected via a switch should not be happening. Are you certain it is a switch to remove battery power or is it a fuse bypass switch?
If it is a battery disconnect it might be # RM-766. If it is, or something similar, then the vehicle battery may still be getting a maintenance charge from the RV. But that still would not explain... view full answer...
There are a few things that you can do to troubleshoot the tow bar or dinghy wiring on your 2016 Ford Edge.
The first thing that I recommend you do is check in the owner's manual for specific instructions. Some cars have special instructions to ensure that the lighting works and nothing happens to the vehicle's engine while being towed.
The second thing that you can do is use a Circuit Tester, like part # PTW2993, to check the wiring harness on the RV to make sure that it is actually... view full answer...
The hands free liftgate on your 2015 Ford Edge has sensors that can be adjusted on your vehicle to better see movement of your foot. The sensor sees movement so a more obvious movement may not require the moving of the sensors for the hands free option to work more often. The Sensor is shaped like a moustache and can be adjusted to better see around your trailer hitch receiver # C13234. view full answer...
As I understand it, your motorhome has a 7-way connector on the back, that you have connected a 7-way To 4-way adapter to, and then attached a splitter to create two four-way connectors from one. Then you have connected one 4-way connector to a towing dolly, and the other 4-way to a 2018 Ford Edge Titanium via the Hopkins # HM56011 Tail Light Wiring Kit that is confirmed to work with your Edge Titanium model.
You have reported that the lights work correctly on the dolly, but not on the... view full answer...
It sounds like the Patriot # BLU37TR had fully engaged the brakes during the stop. The most likely cause would be that the breakaway pin was not in the correct position and thus fully engaged the brakes. I'd start there for a possible cause. That would utilize the battery in the unit to keep applying power until the unit was fully disengaged. view full answer...
I ran the scenario you're contending with past my friend in Tech Services at Tekonsha. It sounds as if the brake controller might have been installed incorrectly. The red wire from the brake controller should have been tapped into a purple wire with a white stripe on it. This wire can be found at the brake switch located at the top of the brake pedal. You can see this at the 18:15 minute mark in the linked video. view full answer...
For starters, the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness part # C56292 is for a 2017 Ford Edge with the Sport and Titanium package. If you have the SE and SEL package on your 2017 Ford Edge then you will want to use the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness part # C56272.
With that being said an LED trailer connector tester like part # F4CT do not always work with all trailer wiring harnesses so this could be the issue. I would ensure that the circuits are working by testing them with... view full answer...
Put a multimeter to the circuit that you connected the fan to, you probably discover it to be 12V DC. A typical household fan, such as purchased at the big box store home improvement places will be 120V AC motors, not 12V DC; two different animals.
If your RV has 120V for typical household appliances that is because you have an inverter for those outlets or they function only when on shore power. The fans are set to operate off of 12V so that they will still operate when you are boondocking,... view full answer...
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