When a 7-way connector was installed on your Colorado, a converter should have been included because the vehicle has separate lighting meaning the brake signal and turn signals are sent along separate wires. It sounds like the wiring kit was not installed correctly.
For your 2012 Colorado, I recommend a wiring harness like part # 118301. This harness plugs into the truck wiring under the truck bed on the driver side.
I recommend using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 and test the... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Pop & Lock about the Pop & Lock Custom Tailgate Lock part # PAL8140 for your 2019 Chevrolet Colorado and they seem to think you have the device tied into the wrong circuits. The correct circuits that you will need to use will be located at the back of the 27 pin plug coming from the PCM, under the driver dash.
On this 27 pin plug there is a brown/yellow wire on the 4th pin that is used for the lock signal and then a gray wire on the 1st pin that is used for the... view full answer...
The Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness # C55510 referenced in your question is confirmed to fit your 2008 Chevy Colorado but its circuitry won't be any different from the Tekonsha or Hopkins harnesses for your truck that you have already tried.
Based on my research the issue that you described is actually not too uncommon on a lot of Chevy vehicles. It simply has to do with how the truck is wired and there really isn't anything you can do to convert it so the trailer turn signals will flash... view full answer...
If you Hopkins Agility Trailer Brake Controller # HM47294 has not powered back on, it will mean one of two things. The brake controller fuse on your 2019 Colorado blew and will need to be replaced, or the controller shorted and it will need to be replaced.
To start with, you will need to check the fuse in position F27 in the fuse box located in the engine compartment, picture included. This will be the one that handles the trailer brake controller. If this has indeed blown, it will need... view full answer...
I recommend first checking the fuse box in your engine bay and checking your trailer park lamps fuse to ensure it is not blown or missing.
If the fuse is there and working correctly I recommend unplugging the wiring harness from the back of your new dual 7-Way and 4-Way connector and verify that none of the contacts inside of the dual connector are damaged causing power to not be transferred through the plug. While there, ensure all wires are tight in the connector and do not have any... view full answer...
First place to check is the ground of the right side taillight assemblies. You need to make sure they are connected to a clean metal surface. A lot of assemblies ground through the mounting hardware so check that they are attached to a clean metal surface as well.
The next most likely problem is corrosion in the trailer connector(s). Check both the connector on your tow vehicle and the connector on your trailer for corrosion and clean as necessary. You can use a circuit tester like part... view full answer...
Yes, if you slide the manual override lever of a brake controller you can then use a circuit tester like part # PTW2992 to test for voltage on the output pin which would be in the 5:00 position. view full answer...
If you have a Kat's Heaters Custom Fit Engine Block Heater # KH11484 that you referenced and it is causing the outlet of your vehicle to cut out then the problem is that the outlet is getting overdrawn either by the heater drawing too much amperage for the outlet to handle or because the heater has a short in the wiring of it and that's causing the outlet to short out.
I would recommend you go over the wiring of the heater looking for any cuts or other obvious signs of a short as that... view full answer...
First thing you might try is disconnecting and plugging back in the connection point on the right hand side of the truck. That's the connector that connects to the running light circuit on that side of the truck wiring. Often times this issue gets cleared out by just doing this. If not, you can try taking a circuit tester like # PTW2993 and testing the brown wire leading into the box for voltage when the circuit is active and then check the brown wire that leads to the 4-way. If voltage... view full answer...
If you have the Activator brake controller 5500 then the error you are seeing should be Er (though on the display it might look like E1). This indicates an internal problem with the controller and it will likely need to be replaced. It would have to be sent back to Draw-Tite to determine what is even causing that particular message.
When a brake controller shows that a trailer is connected even though there is no trailer connected it is almost always caused by a short. And the short is... view full answer...
The brake signal should be fused. Check the vehicle owners manual for the fuse locations for the stop light switch or CHMSL (center high mount stop lamp). If either is blown there would be no power at the plug you found.
If you have a Chevy or GMC truck/SUV then it is also possible that there needs to be some connections made under the hood to make everything fully functional. I would need to know the year, make, and model of the vehicle to know if there are any peculiarities with your... view full answer...
To isolate where the problem is occurring, I recommend testing the 4-Way plug on the # 41165 wiring harness with a circuit tester, without the trailer connected.
Have someone assist you by engaging the tail lights, pressing the brake pedal, and flipping on the turn signals as you test each corresponding port on the plug. You should only see a flashing current on the yellow (left turn) and green (right turn) ports when the turn signals are activated.
If the functions are reading correctly... view full answer...
If you are manually removing and disconnecting the battery cables on your 2019 Chevrolet Colorado each time you set the vehicle up to tow then most likely you don't have the terminal tight enough. I do not see any other reason as to why the vehicle would not start nor have we heard of this issue before. This might be a good time to upgrade to the Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect part # RM-766 as this allows you to engage and disengage the battery with the flick of a switch that way... view full answer...
Have you tried a different trailer to see if it's either the trailer or the truck? If not, and you have access to a trailer, I'd suggest trying that as well.
The other thing you can check is the connector on both the truck and trailer. Since you've already gone through your wiring and didn't see anything, you can move on to something else. The main thing to look for when you're checking out your connectors is any debris or corrosion build up.
If there is any, I recommend cleaning them... view full answer...
If you have installed the Tow Ready T-One Wiring Harness, # 118301, you will want to use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 and test the wires going into the converter box and the wires coming out of the converter box. This will help determine if the problem is on your 2006 Chevy Colorado, the trailer or with the converter box.
With somebody to turn on the turn signals and step on the brakes, test each wire to see that it is working properly. Also, make sure the ground is attached... view full answer...
The wiring harnesses for the 2010 Chevy Colorado plug in line with the factory tail light wiring harness so they do bypass the tow package wiring system on the vehicle. But before going that route the problem might be more easily fixed. We just have to figure out where the problem is coming from.
The most likely culprit is a dirty or corroded trailer connector on the truck. Make sure that the factory connector on the truck is clean and free of corrosion inside, where the wires attach,... view full answer...
The best way to determine if the converter is damaged is to check the wires right at the box. Using a circuit tester, like part # PTW2993, probe the green wire just ahead of the box. If it does not have power, then the wiring may have come loose in the connectors or inside the taped wires. If it does have power, check the green wire on the other side of the converter. If this one does not have power, then the converter could be bad. view full answer...
The Bargman # 30-92-001 would typically be used on the passenger side of a trailer, with # 30-92-003 being used on the driver's side. The white wire on either lamp is grounded to the trailer frame, while the black wire carries the running lamp circuit and the green wire carries the turn signal/brake lamp circuit.
When trailer lamps act up as you describe, it's typically caused by a poor ground connection. The white ground wire from the trailer connector typically grounds to the trailer... view full answer...
Most often when one trailer lighting function works until another function is activated the cause is a bad ground. A weak or loose ground connection will limit the amount of current that the harness can deliver to the trailer connector. We mostly see the issue show up once the running lights are turned on. Since running lights remain on continuously they will draw more current than circuits like brake or turn lights that blink or that are on only momentarily.
Make sure the white ground... view full answer...
I checked with TonnoPro and they tell me that in order to get the clamp back into the C-channel support on your TonnoPro Hard Folding Cover # TPHF-164 you'll need to first make sure the other side is hooked up securely. You'll then want to use a screw driver to pop the clamp back into the C-channel; you'll have to pry it open slightly to try to get it back into the channel. Since these come pre-assembled, this would be the only way to get the clamp back into the channel without damaging... view full answer...
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