MORryde X-Factor Crossmember for LRE, RE, or TRE Leaf Spring Suspension

Video Transcript for MORryde LRE RE, or TRE Leaf Spring Suspension X-Factor Crossmember Review

Hey guys, Kevin with etrailer and today we're gonna be taking a look at the MORryde X-Factor crossmember for LRE, RE and TRE trailer leaf suspension systems. A lot of trailers today are built pretty much as cheaply as possible. So when it comes to the trailer frame itself, you will start to see a lot of warping over time, especially when you're going down bumpy roads. It starts to kind of bend or twist that trailer frame. And what that ends up doing is wearing more on your tires, more on your suspension, especially if you start to make tight turns. It can also kind of give you a little bit of trailer sway, just because there's not that much support put into your frame.

So, MORryde came up with the X-Factor crossmember which is a giant beam that's gonna run between your hangers or through your equalizers, like ours today will do. And it's gonna sure up the foundation of your frame and give you more strength and kind of take out that sway that you'll kind of get between the two different beams of your frame. As you can see right here, this one is connected to the equalizer on our trailer. This is a MORryde equalizer. MORryde makes quite a few different styles of equalizer, so you are gonna wanna make sure that you get the specific fit for your equalizer.

If you need help figuring out exactly what style you have, they'll typically put it out on the front. A lot of the newer ones all have either CRE, LRE, SRE, one of those different codes on the front. Now ours are a little bit rusted up, we can't see that. So if you have issues like that where you don't know exactly what it is, go ahead and take a picture and send it in to us via our Ask the Experts link and we can determine exactly what you have and find the correct crossmember to fit that equalizer. This is a bolt-on installation, so you are not gonna have to do any drilling, any cutting or welding.

This is something you could easily do yourself. The biggest issue that you might run into is just lifting your trailer up and then also supporting the axles while you swap out the bolts in the equalizer and get your crossmember put up onto the equalizer. So let's go ahead and show you how I did it. To start off our installation, we're gonna first have to remove our wheel on our hanger that we decided to put this on. Now our neighbor already has a center cross hanger or equalizer crossmember, is what I meant to say, going on the equalizers across and they only ordered one standard hanger style crossmember.

So there's the option of either putting it on the rear or on the front. I spoke with MORryde and just from general knowledge from working on these RVs, there's a lot more weight on the back of your trailer just past the axle. So really you're gonna get a little bit more of a bend out of that. So it's probably better if you put your crossmember on the rear if you're not gonna get all three on your tandem axle trailer. So, like I said, we'll go ahead, we'll remove our wheel because we're gonna need to get access to that hanger 'cause we're gonna pop out our bolt and insert a new wet bolt from MORryde and that's gonna help with our bracket that's gonna hold up our crossmember. (drill whirring) For our specific equalizer, we do have a specific style crossmember that we're going to be using and it's gonna utilize the same bolts that the equalizer has. That's why it looks exactly like this with the little bracket here. When we do install this, we wanna make sure that we have that larger portion of the bracket facing up. If you look at our beam, it's going to have an open bottom on it so we wanna make sure that we leave it that way and that we have this facing the correct way. Now, which side this goes on doesn't really matter because the other side of this beam is going to slip inside of it. If you look at this one, this is the outer just by the slots that it has right here. And our inner piece is going to have specific little bolt holes. So, the slots are gonna give you a little bit of movement. You can get the bolts in these holes and then kind of get it snugged down once you have it in the correct spot on here. So this allows you to slide it in to get it in place and then push it back out and tighten down. We'll go ahead and start by removing the four bolts on the inside of our equalizer. (tool whirring) All right, got that loose a little bit. We'll go ahead and take a 9/16 wrench, hold our nut on the inside. (tool whirring) And we're getting kind of stuck. If you see yours is as rusty as this one, you can go ahead and take some penetrant and kind of loosen it up a bit. Just that way it doesn't fight you as hard. (wrench clicking) All right, and we'll just keep taking each of these off. (wrench clicking) Now getting into this top one is quite a challenge. I had to switch over to a 1/4 inch drive wrench and socket and I had to sneak it up in there 'cause there is a nut on the inside. So you might have a little bit of trouble to actually get on there, but once you are, this will come off real easy. (wrench clicking) There we go. Now that we have our old bolts out, we can go ahead and put in the new ones. You're gonna have two different bolts in your kit. You'll have these shorter black ones and these longer brass ones. We're gonna use our longer ones and our equalizer. So we'll slip those into place now. And you wanna make sure that you have the bolt head on the inside facing out so that we can torque down the nut, once we get these in place. One easy way to get these bolts in is if you have like a adjustable magnetic stick, like I do right here. You can put it on the end of that and kind of easily get it in place and just pull your magnet out. Go ahead and throw on our bottom two and then we can lift our crossmember into place. I'm gonna start with my bottom holes here. I'll throw on two nuts. You don't have to go all the way down, just get 'em started that way you don't have to worry about it coming undone. And now we can do our top bolts. We can go ahead, switch over to our other side and just repeat the same process with the inner member of our crossmember. Now we're gonna go ahead and take our black bolts and we're gonna use those in the center here to mount our two bars together. Now to do that we need to get them fully level. Having both sides loose on the equalizers kind of gets most of the way up but at the same time there's still a little bit here and it's kind of too hard to push with my hand. So what I'm gonna do is just take a jack and a chunk of wood and I'm just gonna raise that up until it pushes our two pieces fully together. That might need to move just a little bit. This wood's kind of giving in 'cause it's a little bit weathered. So we'll slide this a little bit closer. And then once we have this fully lined up, so now it's starting to sync up, you'll see those holes fully exposed. We wanna get the closest ones out that we can. So I'm gonna get this hole here, this hole here and then over on the other side, I'm gonna get these two holes and we're gonna do that for the top and for the bottom. And one in, another in, that one in. And go ahead and put these in. And then once we get 'em in we're gonna go ahead and take our flange nuts that came with your kit and just tighten those down. Leave 'em hand tight for now, we can come back with our socket wrench. (wrench whirring) Now I've already gone ahead and did this same thing on the other side. You'll gonna wanna go ahead and do the same, before you fully tighten these down just so you don't have any issues with it being too tight and not being able to fit the bolt through on other end. (wrench whirring) Now we have all our bolts in place, we can go ahead and torque 'em down. So this is gonna include our eight bolts that are attaching the two crossmember pieces together as well as the four bolts on each end that attach it to our equalizer. (tool beeping) (metal clinking) Well, I think about it does it for today's look at the MORryde X-Factor crossmember for LRE, RE and TRE trailer leaf suspension systems. My name's Kevin, thanks for watching.