Trailer Brakes Lock Up When Hooked to Breakaway Battery
Question:
Hi John, thank you for the wiring info. It is factory wired & I made sure to rewired it exactly like the original. It was also the identical mfg & model as the original breakaway switch. I did notice that the original switch was fastened securely unlike the instructions on the new one which stated: to allow for it to pivot, unlike the factory fastened installation. Should the breakaway switch mounting plate be secure? Or even without a firm connection to the battery could I have melted a wire or possibly a fuse somewhere along the its length? Could the switch be defective? There is a fare sized box just under the front of the rig that all the wires go into, should I inspect it? It is a 2005 Fleetwood Pegasus, Vin #1500319. Thanks for your help!
asked by: Tom
Helpful Expert Reply:
It sounds like you found out why the brakes were activated while you were towing the trailer to storage, so that solves that problem. Now we will want to figure out why the brakes are still locking up with the new breakaway switch. Even if you fried the brake magnets, the brakes should not lock up if the breakaway system is setup properly. I recommend inspecting the wiring of the breakaway system on your trailer to see why power is reaching the brake assemblies. I have attached a wiring diagram that shows how the breakaway system should be installed.
Without being able to see the trailer it is difficult to tell you what the issue is exactly, but there are a few things you can look for. Once you have the breakaway system set up properly. Look for any damaged sections of wire. It may be possible that some wires are crossed or connected to the wrong circuit. Your electric brake wire should run from your trailer connector directly back to your trailer brakes and only one wire from the breakaway switch should be spliced in. There should be no other wires spliced in to the electric brake power wire other than the breakaway switch and brake magnets.
Once you have the wiring completed, you may want to replace your brake assemblies. I also recommend looking at the hub surface and bearings. If the hub became hot, there is a chance that the bearings and grease seal could have been affected. If you would like new parts, I would just need a little more information about your trailer to get you the correct parts. If you can tell me the VIN of your trailer, I can give you all of the correct replacement parts you need for your brakes and hubs. The VIN can be located on the specs plate that is typically located on the tongue of the trailer.
Products Referenced in This Question
Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Left Hand - 3,500 lbs
- Accessories and Parts
- Trailer Brakes
- Electric Drum Brakes
- LH
- 3500 lbs
- Brake Assembly
- Self Adjust
- 10 x 2-1/4 Inch Drum
- etrailer
more information >
Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Right Hand - 3,500 lbs
- Accessories and Parts
- Trailer Brakes
- Electric Drum Brakes
- RH
- 3500 lbs
- Brake Assembly
- Self Adjust
- 10 x 2-1/4 Inch Drum
- etrailer
more information >
Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 - Pre-Greased
- Trailer Hubs and Drums
- Hub with Integrated Drum
- Standard
- L68149
- L44649
- For 3500 lbs Axles
- 1/2 Inch Stud
- 5 on 4-1/2 Inch
- 13 Inch Wheel
- 14 Inch Wheel
- 14-1/2 Inch Wheel
- 15 Inch Wheel
- etrailer
more information >
Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 5 - Pre-Greased
- Trailer Hubs and Drums
- Hub with Integrated Drum
- Pre-Greased
- Standard
- L68149
- L44649
- For 3500 lbs Axles
- 1/2 Inch Stud
- 5 on 5 Inch
- 13 Inch Wheel
- 14 Inch Wheel
- 14-1/2 Inch Wheel
- 15 Inch Wheel
- etrailer
more information >
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 12" - Right Hand - 5,200 lbs to 7,000 lbs
- Accessories and Parts
- Trailer Brakes
- Electric Drum Brakes
- RH
- 5200 - 7000 lbs
- Brake Assembly
- Manual Adjust
- 12 x 2 Inch Drum
- etrailer
more information >
Continue Researching
- Search Results: fits roadmaster base plates ~ crossbar tow bar
- Search Results: fits roadmaster base plates ~ direct connect tow bar
- Shop: Base Plate for Tow Bar
- Article: Roadmaster Vehicle Specific Base Plates
- Q&A: Parts Needed to Flat Tow a 2012 Mini Clubman Behind a Motor Home
- Video: Review of etrailer Tow Bar - Hitch Mount Style Roadmaster Base Plates - e44ZR
- Video: Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit Installation - 2016 Mini Cooper
- Video: Base Plate Kit Installation - 2010 Mini Cooper
- Video: RoadMaster Tow Bars to Blue Ox Brackets Adapter Review
- Search Results: roadmaster base plates
- Search Results: base plate
- Search Results: 910021~00
- Shop: Roadmaster Base Plate Adapter Bracket for Blue Ox and Demco Tow Bars
- Shop: Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms
- Shop: Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms
- Shop: Second Vehicle Breakaway Kit for Blue Ox Patriot Flat Tow Brake Systems
- Shop: Roadmaster Crossbar-Style Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms
- Shop: Replacement Quick Disconnect Crossbar Assembly for Roadmaster Tow Bars
- Shop: Roadmaster BlackHawk 2 All-Terrain, Nighthawk, and Sterling Tow Bar Adapter for Blue Ox Base Plates
- Q&A: Can Trailer Brakes Lock Up if a Breakaway System has a Dead Battery
- Q&A: Are All Trailer Wheels Supposed to Lock when Trailer Breakaway Pin is Pulled
- Q&A: Troubleshooting Electric Brakes Locked Up With Breakaway Battery Disconnected
- Search Results: base plates
- Video: Choosing the Right Trailer Wiring
- Article: Trailer Wiring Diagrams
- Q&A: What is the Difference Between a Class II and a Class III Hitch?
- Shop: Vehicle Tow Bar Wiring
- Shop: Vehicle Tow Bar Brake System
- Article: Brake Controller 7- and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7)
- Video: Blue Ox Patriot Portable Braking System Installation - 2022 Ford F-150
Tom
6/13/2014
Hi John, thank you for the wiring info. It is factory wired & I made sure to rewired it exactly like the original. It was also the identical mfg & model as the original breakaway switch. I did notice that the original switch was fastened securely unlike the instructions on the new one which stated: to allow for it to pivot, unlike the factory fastened installation. Should the breakaway switch mounting plate be secure? Or even without a firm connection to the battery could I have melted a wire or possibly a fuse somewhere along the its length? Could the switch be defective? There is a fare sized box just under the front of the rig that all the wires go into, should I inspect it? It is a 2005 Fleetwood Pegasus, Vin #1500319. Thanks for your help!