With your 2015 Ford F-150 it sounds like there is a bad ground on your trailer or a bad connection. First I recommend using some sand paper on your wiring connection to ensure there is good contract between the pins free of corrosion and debris.
The Hopkins Endurance 4-Way Flat Trailer Wiring Harness - 20' Long # HM48240 may be connected correctly and work well with a different vehicle that has a different power output, but often when there is an issue like you are describing it's a... view full answer...
You do have an issue that needs to be addressed. With the brakes getting that hot, braking performance can be significantly reduced, your brakes will wear prematurely, and the tow vehicle is working harder to stop and most likely pull the trailer.
I would start out checking the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, without the trailer connected. There is a possibility that mis-wiring or corrosion inside the connector is causing power bleed onto the trailer brake circuit, which... view full answer...
It sounds as if you may have to adjust the trailer brakes or have a wiring issue. When the 10 inch brakes, part # AKEBRK-35L and # AKEBRK-35R, are installed on the trailer the brake magnet should release as long as there is no power to the magnets. The spring should not interfere with the release of the magnet as long as the brake assembly is assembled correctly, you should verify that the brake assemblies are assembled correctly. There is no adjustment of the brake arm that holds the... view full answer...
The first thing I recommend is to use a tester like part # PTW2993 and check the 12V circuit on the wiring connector on the truck. If you have no current showing there may be a fuse missing or blown for that circuit. You would want to check the owner's manual or with your dealership to see which fuse is dedicated to that circuit.
There are times when the dome lights may be attached to the running light circuit. You may want to try turning on the truck headlights when the trailer is hooked... view full answer...
It looks like you need to reposition your SuperSpring part # SSA8MTKT on the leaf spring of your 2006 Ford F150. I spoke to my contact at SuperSprings and was informed that they do not need to be perfectly centered on the spring, and based on the pictures it looks like you have it pushed to far to one side to work properly. The bracket of the # SSA8MTKT needs to be on the other side of the clip on your vehicle leaf spring.
Check out the picture I attached for further explanation.
The... view full answer...
I was able to reach out to my contact at Wilmar who mentioned a couple of different things that could be going on with your 2.5 Watt Solar Battery Charger # PTW2997. First, they mentioned that you should always use the battery end that came with the solar charger, so if you've not connected the solar panel with the cord that it came with, this is the most likely culprit. If that's not the case, they also mentioned to look at the following things:
- make sure that the battery it is being... view full answer...
It sounds like there is either a short circuit causing constant power draw or back feeding, or the truck connector and trailer connector are wired differently, and the turn signal issue is a result.
To determine where the problem is you can plug in a different trailer and if the same issue happens then there must be an issue with the truck tow package wiring. If it does not happen, then the issue is on the trailer.
You can test the truck connector with a circuit tester # PTW2993. Have... view full answer...
What I would do is try bypassing the tee connection on the Curt T-Connector # C56413. If you plug everything back up how it was before you installed this kit then you can test the 7-Way at the back of your 2018 Ford F-150 to see if everything is functioning properly again.
If it is functioning properly then the T-Connector needs to be replaced. If it isn't then you'll want to take a circuit tester # PTW2992 and check the OEM wiring from the rear as far forward as you can. While doing... view full answer...
New GM trucks don't have consistent 12 volts on their trailer wiring circuits. While this tends to not be a problem for trailer lighting it does not always work great with more sophisticated circuits like your tester. This is a big issue for camera systems that use the running light circuit for their power supply. view full answer...
Since the running lights on your boat trailer are not working when plugged in to your 2010 Ford F-150, but you know the issue is on the truck then I recommend checking Fuse 31 in the engine bay fuse box. This is a 20 amp fuse so if it is missing or blown you will need to replace it with another 20 amp fuse. view full answer...
If your Mountain Top EVO-M Retractable Hard Tonneau Cover with Truck Bed Rack # MNT32FR is sticking once it's fully retracted then you likely have a bind inside the canister, whether it's an actual loose piece or just some debris binding the cover up. The only way to really figure out what exactly is causing the bind would be to dismantle the canister. This can be a labor-intensive job so I'd reach out to Mountain Top first to see if their warranty covers this kind of issue so that you... view full answer...
What I think may be happening is there is the absence of a relay that will not allow certain functions to work on the trailer lights if the load on the system is great enough. I would consult the owners manual, find the location of any relays/fuses associated with the trailer wiring, and make sure they are in good working order or add the ones that may be missing.
Another issue could be a faulty ground somewhere since your ground test did get it to partially work. You will want to check... view full answer...
Since you mention that you experience the same problems even after switching tow vehicles, I think it is safe to assume that the issue is with the trailer.
The first thing that I recommend is to put some miles on your new brakes. Manufacturers state that it can take up to 200 miles for the brakes to be fully seated and function to their fullest potential.
You may also be experiencing a ground issue which would not allow full power to the brakes on the trailer. I would begin by checking... view full answer...
If you have already checked the 5-Way on the truck and it is working properly, then you have narrowed the problem down to the trailer.
Typically grounds are the source of most trailer light problems, but since you have the other functions, ground issues are less likely.
Check the connector on the trailer for corrosion. If they are dirty or corroded, clean the contacts with a wire brush and some electrical contact cleaner. Re-apply dielectric grease like part # 11755 to keep moisture out... view full answer...
Not to worry, this is a common issue and I will be happy to help you get your running lights working again. Since you already checked the fuses and relays on your vehicle. The next step is to inspect the trailer connector for corrosion in the connector, inspect the wiring and where the harness connects to the truck wiring for any shorts.
The next step would be to check all of the grounds for a loose connection or corrosion and clean and relocate as necessary.
If the above steps do not... view full answer...
It does sound like a ground problem. Most wiring issues are due to a bad ground connection. But first, I do recommend checking the trailer and vehicle side connectors for dirt or corrosion in and behind the plugs. That can cause the problem as well and it is the easiest thing to check.
After that, if you still have issues, start checking all of the grounds starting with the truck side trailer connector and working back to the tail lights on the trailer. The grounds should all be connected... view full answer...
Since you mention that the LED light on the Reese Trailer Connector Adapter, # 78118, isn't illuminating for the tail lights, it sounds like the issue is with the truck but this could be something as simple as dirt or corrosion in the 2013 Ford F-150's 7-way connector.
If the pin looks clean then the issue may very likely be a blown fuse or faulty relay.
If everything checks out to be fine and the running lights on your trailer still aren't functioning properly, please feel free to email... view full answer...
It looks like you have an incorrect wiring harness connecting the P2 brake controller, # 90885, to the factory brake controller port on your 2009 Ford F-150. The # 3034-P brake controller wiring harness is designed for the Ford E series vans and the Super Duty trucks, not the F-150 trucks.
The correct harness for your truck is the Brake Control Wiring Adapter for Ford F-150, # 22292. This harness has the same connector but a different wiring configuration. I produced a short video, see... view full answer...
To determine if the issue is within the controller itself or on the trailer side of things, I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the 5 o'clock pin on the 7-way connector while a friend applies the manual override of the controller.
If you have power then the issue is on the trailer side, and if there is not power then the issue is between the 7-way and trailer brake controller on your 2009 Ford F-150.
Since you are getting the gain number on your Curt Triflex Trailer... view full answer...
Since you have power to the wire you're connecting to the Fogatti RV Tankless Water Heater # LSB64FR, but the water heater itself doesn't have power, I recommend checking to make sure it is wired correctly.
The 2 blue wires coming out the back of the unit will run to the thermostat while the red should be connected to 12V power and the black to a ground. Make sure this is how you're connecting the wires and that they are secured properly when you make the connections.
Let me know if you're... view full answer...
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