If you brought your truck and trailer into my shop, I'd immediately check three things and in this order:
1. Corrosion or dirt/debris on the 9 o'clock pin in the trailer connector on your tow vehicle and on the 3 o'clock pin on your trailer side plug and clean/replace as necessary. I like to use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 on the 9 o'clock pin on the vehicle just to make sure I'm actually getting a signal. No signal on the vehicle side connector could indicate a fuse issue.
2.... view full answer...
If you have self-adjusting assemblies like the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Brake Kit # 23-468-469 installed on your trailer, they will indeed continue to adjust as you pull the trailer around. It does sound like you performed the initial manual adjustment correctly, so you should see improved performance as you continue to use them. Driving around in a parking lot and using the brake controller's manual override like you mentioned is a good way to do this.
Otherwise, since the brakes were recently... view full answer...
I can't find a fuse number for your vehicle tail lights in your owners manual. You may want to check your parking lamp fuse number 22 and 43. If you are referring to your trailer you will want to check fuses 18, 24, 28, and 33. You will also want to check relay 37 and 38 and 45.
There is also a good chance that you have a ground wire that needs to be cleaned for your brake lights. I recommend using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test function of lights when you have a good ground... view full answer...
The key to purchasing the correct weight distribution system and sway control is choosing a system that is compatible with the tongue weight of your trailer. So it is important to know the tongue weight of your trailer when it is fully loaded and ready to tow. With that being said, I have attached an article on determining trailer tongue weight for you to review.
If the tongue weight of your trailer is greater or less than the tongue weight range on your weight distribution system, then... view full answer...
The wiring harness on the trailer side is what is called a wishbone harness. It splits the running light signal so that you do not have to run a jumper wire from one side to the other. The yellow/brown wire is for the left side running lights and the green/brown is for the right side running lights. That could be what the problem is if you wired it differently.
Make sure that the trailer lights are grounded to a clean and corrosion free location of the trailer frame. Also check to make... view full answer...
With your trailer connected your P3 brake controller # 90195 should show 0.0 with a picture of a truck and traielr when the trailer is connected. If it does not, then the controller is not sensing the trailer. If that is the case, you would not have any trailer brakes.
It is also possible that the trailer brakes need to be adjusted to move the shoes closer to the insides of the drums. When adjusted properly you should hear a slight but constant drag of the pads on the drum. Using a brake... view full answer...
If you have tested and are getting voltage at the trailer connector when the brake lights and turn signals are activated, you most likely have a blown fuse.
Check the fuse box under the hood. The box should have a legend on the underside of the lid that identifies the circuits, or you can check your owners manual for the proper fuse location. Keep in mind that on some Ford trucks and SUVs, the fuses for the tow package are located in a separate fuse block mounted on the firewall in the... view full answer...
The trailer running lamp circuit is protected by a 25A fuse in location 28 and a relay in position 24. Check and replace as necessary, but before plugging the trailer back in, you'll need to find and repair the short in the running lamp circuit on the trailer, or you'll continue to blow fuses.
Begin at the trailer connector, and trace that circuit (typically a brown wire) back from the connector to the lamps. Look for pinched wires, loose connections or cracked/worn wire insulation. Pay... view full answer...
It sounds you have installed a screw-terminal type 7-way socket like # HM48470 on your vehicle to convert it from the 4-pole wiring format. Similar items like # 37185 allow this same format change but use a 4-pole connector that joins your original 4-pole, thereby requiring that you make only three spliced connections for the other circuits.
The screw terminal connections on part # HM48470 are intended primarily for convenience when wiring in a replacement for a damaged 7-way socket,... view full answer...
We can get you fixed right up. It sounds like you may have the wrong harness.
We have a Ford harness that will work with your vehicle. The Tekonsha Wire Replacement, item # 3035-P, is the correct harness for the under dash brake controller connection on the 1997 Ford Expedition. The instructions for this harness (see link) show the correct wiring configuration at the top of the page.
Your Voyager brake controller wiring colors are the same as the wire colors on the harness.
If you get... view full answer...
One of the most common causes of trailer light failures is the ground. You will want to make sure the ground wire is secured to a clean, bare metal surface and that there are no signs of damage to any of the wires on the trailer.
Check the harness connector to make sure it is clean and free of rust and corrosion. If that all checks out on the trailer you will want to check the output from the vehicle with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993. view full answer...
It sounds like you need to inspect the brake magnets and the wiring to the brakes, trailer connectors, and the brake controller connections. The brakes being hot makes me think that the magnets could be going or that they need to be adjusted or the pads replaced.
To test the magnets, you can start with a visual inspection. If you can see the windings coming through they will need to be replaced. Also check the ground and power wires to make sure they are intact with no nicks touching metal... view full answer...
At the rear frame rail there are a few wires that you'll need to run to the 7-way as they most likely aren't complete like you have found. Typically connecting those wires to the 7-way will be all that's needed but sometimes the circuits aren't active. Since it's an OEM controller contacting Ford would be best option.
You may need to run a length of 10 gauge wire (part # 10-1-1) from the brake output circuit of the controller to the brake output circuit of the 7-way (blue wire). The... view full answer...
Because your Prodigy P3 # 90195 is shutting down when you hit the manual override on the controller, it sounds like you have a surge that is tripping the circuit breaker to protect your controller. This could be from a bad ground connection or a short in the brake controller output wire. I recommend checking your ground connections first to make sure they are bare metal to metal at the controller as well as at your 7-way and also that your 20 amp circuit breaker is properly grounded (through... view full answer...
It should have been hooked up and fully functional from the factory. Some times there is a wire that will need to connected, but that is only on vehicles that do not have the 7-Way from the factory, but are pre-wired for them.
Which pin are you checking on the 7-Way? As you face the 7-Way on the vehicle, it should be the pin at the 1:00 position. The center contact is for reverse lights. Also, is the Expedition on or off when you are testing the wiring? I have added a link to a wiring... view full answer...
The problem that you have with the 7-Way on your 1999 Ford Expedition could be a dirty or corroded trailer connector. Make sure that the connector is clean and free of corrosion inside, where the wires attach, and outside on the pins themselves. Also check for loose or damaged wires and fix as needed.
If you still have problems then it could be a fuse or relay related to the tow package wiring. There are several on your Expedition:
In-cab fuse box:
Location 23 for trailer tow battery... view full answer...
If you have tested the pin for the right turn signal at the trailer connector, have you used a circuit tester to probe the wire that feeds the connector? If you get no signal there, you most likely have a blown fuse.
Typically, the fuses that protect the towing circuits are located in a fuse box in the engine compartment. Your owners manual should have more specific information about the fuse location. view full answer...
I checked with the instructions of the Tekonsha P3 Proportional Brake Controller # 90195 and the possible causes for the lack of a trailer connection are following:
1. Trailer not connected to tow vehicle. Try wiggling the trailer connector to make sure that it is seated all the way into the vehicle connector.
2. Trailer connected with open circuit on the brake line. Check the wiring of the brake output circuit on both your 2008 Ford Expedition and your trailer. If you find loose wiring... view full answer...
The first thing I recommend doing is to use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 and test the functions of the wires on your brake controller adapter # 3035-P.
The red (Stoplight) wire should show power only when the brake pedal is pressed. The black (Power) wire should show constant power. The white is ground, and the blue is trailer brakes.
If the light on the brake controller is on and you have no trailer brakes when using the brake pedal or the manual control, you will want to check the... view full answer...
A weight distribution kit that's rated for a maximum 10K trailer weight/ 1000K tongue weight could very well be okay for your trailer, unless it weighs quite a bit less than the Gross trailer weights you mentioned. If your w/d system is considerably underrated for the actual rate of your trailer, it would ride pretty rough.
I'd recommend taking a little time to verify the actual as-towed weight of your trailer, then go on from there.
You mention that the system you have wasn't set up... view full answer...
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