You will want to do some troubleshooting on the trailer as it sounds like the problem is definitely there. First inspect the trailer connector to make sure it is free of corrosion or dirt and that the pins are all okay. Look for any signs of broken kinked or damaged wires on the trailer and fix as needed.
Then use a 12V battery and a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test the trailer connector. Finally, as the attached helpful article says check the brake magnets and replace any work... view full answer...
The Tekonsha 7-Way RV-Style Tester for Brake Controllers # 6562 is intended for troubleshooting a vehicle's brake circuit but I recommend using a multi-meter item like # PT89ZR because this tool will tell you the actual voltage level detected. This makes the multi-meter a more useful tool for general wiring troubleshooting and it costs less too.
It sounds like your trailer brake circuit is the only one on your 7-way setup that is not behaving correctly. The multi-meter will help you determine... view full answer...
Yes, the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller part # TK94FR that you referenced is a fit for your 2013 Audi Q7 with a factory 7-way as it can fit basically any vehicle with a functioning 7-way. Sometimes it is a challenge to get the controller to pair with German vehicles but here's some pointers for if you ran into any issues.
First, If you do not see displayed what the instructions say just keep going through the steps. Sometimes, it will not display what it is supposed to but it will... view full answer...
My concern is the Curt TriFlex Trailer Brake Controller # C24VV not getting enough power on your 2018 Audi Q7. There is a technical bulletin which I have linked below since the wiring on your Q7 will not provide enough power to the trailer brakes which is causing the OL error you are getting. You will need the following components from your Audi dealer.
1 connector housing (#1J0-972-782)
2 wire/terminal assemblies (#000-979-228)
These will help you to wire in a 30-Amp Relay # BL63VR.... view full answer...
The blue "Brakes Being Applied" adjuster for the Curt Echo Wireless Brake Controller # C51180 is a combination of both the max output and the sensitivity settings.
It sounds like you have the sensitivity pretty high so when you adjust the max output to a lower strength the brakes will reach that full circle faster. Try adjusting the max output and sensitivity as well as taking your towing setup to an empty parking lot to get the brakes adjusted to what you need.
If you feel like the brakes... view full answer...
Yes, it is possible that there isn't enough voltage on the 2013 Q7 for the unit to recognize that a trailer is connected. To fix this issue you can try adapter # 20142. This adapter will provide more current draw so that this issue does not happen. view full answer...
Your 2021 Audi Q7 is going to have a smart wiring system. For the Curt Echo # C51180 to function properly and receive power you will need to connect your trailer 7-way to the Echo once you plug into the connector on your Audi. The computer in your Audi wants to see a full trailer connection before it will send power to the 12 volt circuit that powers the Echo. Your Audi will also have a trailer tow mode that should also be selected while you are towing. view full answer...
On the trailer side of wiring the stop signal is connected to both the left and right turn signals. Because your turn signals are working I don't believe that the problem is the Hopkins Adapter 7 Pole to 4 Pole with Tester and Cover # 47345. The problem is most likely that the trailer has a bad ground or the harness is being overloaded when you connect your trailer to your 2013 Audi Q7. The only way that the connector would be the issue is if it was damage in some way or if the connectors... view full answer...
Your 2020 Audi Q7 has a trailer mode and will only send power through the 7-way charge line when it senses a trailer that requires 12v power is connected. This is why the Curt Echo # C51180 will only start to receive power on your camper when the 7-way is plugged in.
If your boat trailer uses an electric brake system there should be a breakaway battery that is tied to the 7-way charge line that will ensure the battery is kept charged. If you do not have a breakaway battery and do have... view full answer...
I would start by double checking your 4-way connection. Make sure it is clean and that there is no dirt or debris that could be causing an issue.
If everything looks good, consider moving the ground. I realize you already checked to make sure it was on bare metal, but this is typically the problem when using one turn signal engages turn signals on both sides of the trailer. You may also need to run a new ground wire if there is a short.
In order to test the sensors there are a few things... view full answer...
The first thing I would do is remove the fuse to reset everything. Once you reinsert the fuse, perform the module learn mode and verification steps again as listed in the manual. The other thing I would do is double check the ground connection. A weak ground connection could definitely cause this problem. Make sure it is secure on a clean, bare-metal surface. view full answer...
Normally having a green light on your brake controller means you have a connection to your trailer. This is an indication of a power draw on your brake output wire that happens when a trailer is connected. If you are getting that light without a trailer connected it is an indication of a slight draw on that brake output wire. That LED light should turn red when you hit the brake pedal or activate the manual override with the trailer.
If you have this green light when a trailer is not... view full answer...
We need to determine if the issue is on the vehicle side or the trailer side, so first disconnect the trailer and then use a circuit tester like # PTW2992 or the one that came with your ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness # 119250KIT. If the functions don't work correctly for each pin like in the video then you will want to go back to your sensor connections and retest them. You also want to make sure the ground ring terminal is connected bare metal to metal and some sand paper... view full answer...
I would first verify that the 7-way connector on your 2011 Audi Q7 has constant 12v power to the 1 o'clock pin which is the auxiliary power pin. To do this you will need a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If you do not have 12v power I recommend checking your vehicle's owner's manual to find the fuse location and check for a blown fuse, or the factory may not have hooked up the 12v auxiliary power to the battery.
If you need to add the 12v power, you will need to run # 10-1-1 wire which... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Tekonsha about your issue and he responded by saying that If the #5 led in the top row (power) is blinking the tester is bad. If the #1 led in the top row (power) is blinking the battery in the unit is severely low on voltage and needs to be replaced with a 2023-X battery. view full answer...
On your Curt TriFlex Trailer Brake Controller # C24VV, the decimal point as you put it is standby mode with no trailer connected. The blank screen is also standby mode and that screen is what is seen when simply starting the vehicle, but that screen should illuminate when you press the manual override or show the decimal point when you hit the brake pedal only while moving since it is a proportional controller. If it does not operate under those criteria, then you will need to have the... view full answer...
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