I spoke with my contact at Yakima and they do not make a longer Zip Strip for the SwingDaddy but I do have a solution for you. I recommend using the Swagman Bike Adapter Bar, # 64005. Not only will this allow you to secure your Electra Tiger Shark Cruiser to the rack but it will allow you to do so without touching the frame. Check out the video that I have attached. view full answer...
You can test trailer wiring harness # 118304 to determine if it is the problem or if the issue is somewhere else. You can use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 or a meter if you have one to perform this test.
Have someone sit in the vehicle and press the brake pedal. At the same time test the pins on the 4-Way, specifically the 2 that are the furthest from the exposed ground pin. If you are not getting power there when the brake pedal is pressed, then make sure your stoplight/CHMSL fuses... view full answer...
It sounds like you are referring to the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness part # C56106 on your 2013 Toyota Sienna. If that is the case then what you need to do is test the brown wire before it reaches the converter box. If this was power without the running lights on then you have an issue with the vehicle wiring. However, if this wire does not have power unless the running lights are on then test the brown wire after it leaves the converter box. If it has power without the running... view full answer...
It is possible that the trailer lights have more draw than trailer wiring harness # 118304 can handle. It is rated for 2.1 amps per side for brake lights/turn signals and 4.2 amps for running lights. Your friend's truck is likely rated higher so it can handle the draw.
If this does turn out to be the problem then switching to LED lights would solve the issue.
The other option, since this is a recurring issue, is to replace the T-connector harness with a universal, powered harness that... view full answer...
It sounds like you have corrosion compacted in the weldnuts on your 2009 Toyota Sienna. All you can do is spray the lubricant, let it sit from about 15 minutes, and then go at the weldnuts with a wire brush. Do this repeatedly.
If that doesn't help you will likely have to use a thread tapper. An auto parts store can usually loan out a tap and die set. Just make sure that the set has the right M12 size and thread pattern to match the bolts.
If you haven't used a thread tapper before then... view full answer...
The problem you're having with Curt Wiring Harness # C56106 on your 2012 Toyota Sienna could be the converter box but first check the ground connection. Make sure it's grounded to a clean bare metal location on the van's frame. Since it worked before it's probably in a good spot but might just need to be cleaned which is an easy fix.
If the ground is good, you can test the converter box to be sure that's the issue. Use a circuit tester like # PTW2979 and test the yellow wire before... view full answer...
I could not find purchase history for you to confirm which wiring harness you have but the linked page will show you those we offer from Curt and Tow Ready, parts # C56106 and # 118498.
The most common cause for some lights (in your case stop and turn) to work but not running lights is a bad ground connection either on the vehicle or on the trailer. Since running lights stay on they will draw more current than blinking turn signals or brake lights that are often on for short times. A weak... view full answer...
That metal tab should be lined up with the plastic piece sitting right next to it. I went out to our video studio and messed with a set of the Malone AirFlow2 Roof Rack # MPG216 and found that if I pressed up on the smaller clamping piece (see attached) it would help put everything in-line, but it did take some shifting around.
I also spoke with Evangeline on our video team and she said they've experienced that metal tab breaking by getting stick in a fixed position as well so that might... view full answer...
I am sorry to hear that the tailpipe on your 2020 Toyota Sienna XLW AWD is contacting the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76112 you installed.
There is not a lot of space on your vehicle between where the tailpipe sits and the trailer hitch receiver installs, so this is not an unheard of issue.
We actually have made a help article that goes over a few of the best ways to correct such an issue. I recommend starting with bending the hanger as it has no cost involved and can give you... view full answer...
It sounds like a converter box issue on your setup. Can you test for voltage feeding into the box and coming out of the box? I'd be willing to bet you'll find it's going into the box fine but not coming out which means it has an internal short and would need to be replaced.
We've found that the most reliable trailer wiring brand is Tekonsha so I would recommend replacing what you have with the part # 118304. view full answer...
It isn't necessary to run a fuse to the center pin of the Isolation Solenoid part # PK5231201 as this circuit simply closes the circuit between the two pins on the outside posts of the solenoid. view full answer...
A 30 amp fuse will likely fix the problem of the fuse blowing but fuses are meant to safeguard against wiring overheating it would be dangerous to do so and could result in a fire.
It sounds like you simply have a short somewhere. Start off by checking the connector on your 2016 Toyota Sienna and your trailer. Clean out any debris or corrosion and apply some dielectric grease like part # 11755 to help keep them clean and protected.
If your connectors look good then you need to check the... view full answer...
The most likely cause for your Sienna to blow the fuse on your +12V auxiliary trailer power feed is a short somewhere in that circuit. The short could be caused by a wire that rubs on the frame and that has damage to its insulation or even by corrosion inside the 7-way trailer socket. If the wiring is new then it is more likely to be a short from a pinched wire but if the wiring has been in place on the Sienna for some years then it may be a corrosion issue.
Trailer connectors, including... view full answer...
I'd be happy to help you out!
The 10.9 number you're seeing on the head of the bolt has to do with the strength of the bolt not necessarily the size of the bolt. I'm not seeing a part number for the etrailer Trailer Hitch # e98837 so I recommend measuring the threads to determine what size you have. An M10 bolt will have threads measuring 10 mm in diameter while an M12 bolt will have threads measuring 12 mm in diameter.
If yours ends up being 10 mm let me know so I can have our customer... view full answer...
You are correct, if you have power going into the converter box and not coming out of the converter box you, for any one of the trailer lighting functions, will need to replace the converter.
Although the converter does not look the same it preforms the same function, combining the separate brake light signal and turn signals on your vehicle on to the same wires going to the trailer lights.
The Hopkins Custom Fit Wiring Harness, item # 43475, will install inline with the connectors going... view full answer...
Since you said that there are issues with the harnesses you purchased, and if the converter is bad on the harness you have, you will need to replace the harness with a suitable replacement. Make sure the wiring on the vehicle is operating correctly and there are no issues that would cause problems with adding a harness for your trailer.
A short in the wiring on a trailer can cause issues, so you then need to check the trailer connector and make certain it is not damaged. Check the wiring... view full answer...
If the Draw-Tite Activator IV Trailer Brake Controller # 5504 is displaying an OL (overload) error message that means there is a short somewhere on the brake output circuit on either the truck or the trailer.
Start by examining the trailer connector. Make sure that the pins on the vehicle side of the connection and the sockets on the trailer side are not damaged or corroded. If you can see green corrosion on the pins or the sockets, there is a possibility that the corrosion may have spread... view full answer...
When installing a brake controller in your 2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 there are a few connections under the hood of the truck that must be made before the brake controller will be active. Check out the help article and brake controller install video I attached that detail this. view full answer...
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993, you should get output to the controller side of the wire you severed. If the manual slide activates the trailer brake output wire properly, try the brake pedal. If the brake pedal activates the brake output properly also then the problem is farther back either in the vehicle... view full answer...
For your 2011 Toyota Sienna without siderails, the SeaSucker Monkey Bars Roof Rack - Vacuum Cup Mount - 48" Long # 298-SX6000B is a great option. It uses vacuum mounts that each have a 210 lbs pull strength rating. Then you can use the SUP and Surfboard Pads for SeaSucker Monkey Bars - 19-1/2" Long - Qty 2 # 298-SA1022 along with the Cam Buckle Tie-Down Straps for SeaSucker Monkey Bars - 1" Wide x 10' Long - Qty 2 # 298-SA0010. This is a very strong system able to handle highway speeds... view full answer...
Go To Results