If you have used a circuit tester like # PTW2993 and know the problem is with your 2011 Ram, start by cleaning the connector so it is free of any corrosion, and then proceed to ensure that there are no blown fuses that would be causing the running lights not to work.
You are also going to want to ensure the vehicle's connector has a good ground, fastened securely to a bare metal surface without any paint or corrosion. I have attached a couple of help articles on trailer wiring for you... view full answer...
We haven't had any issues with the InfiniteRule Locking Pins part # IR57RR coming loose so I wouldn't anticipate that being a problem at all. When these are in the locked position they actually can't thread on or off. view full answer...
If your Everchill RV Refrigerator w/ Freezer Drawer # WAY44FR isn't maintaining the proper temperature then you most likely have a clog in the condensation line choking the fridge up and preventing it from properly cooling. I recommend pulling the fridge out from the wall and cleaning out any dust build up and and cleaning the condensation drain line so that the fridge can breathe. I also recommend checking the voltage at the unit to ensure it's receiving enough power to properly operate. view full answer...
You may want to check out the Sidewinder Wedge Kit for Curt E-16K Fifth Wheel Hitch # RP64FR. If you are using a universal wedge, it could be your problem. Curt also offers a wedge for the E16, part # C16991.
I recommend the Reese wedge # RP64FR. This wedge is more of a custom fit than the Curt # C16991 wedge. view full answer...
If your Ram has the factory tow package including the factory 7-way trailer connector at the rear bumper, that circuit should already be connected. The fuse protecting that should be in location F30 in the power distribution center (fuse box) under the hood near the battery. Insert if missing or replace if blown. It should be a pink 30A fuse. view full answer...
Since you have changed out any blown fuses related to trailer lighting in your 2015 Ram 2500 I suggest you test the truck wiring without the trailer connected. This will help you isolate the problem to either the vehicle or trailer side.
Please refer to the linked photo (and article on trailer wiring) which shows the function carried on each pin of a 7-way vehicle socket. Running light power is carried on the 7-way contact at the 11-o-clock position as you look at the socket from the back... view full answer...
You are definitely on the right track, but when I looked up the online owner's manual for your 2015 Ram 2500 the F11 cartridge fuse is actually for the trailer brakes themselves which is a different circuit than the brake lights.
For the brake lights you need to look at fuses F53 and F81 which carry the left turn/stop and right turn/stop light circuits respectively.
If those fuses look good as well then you need to test the 7-Way connector on your Ram or plug your trailer up to a different... view full answer...
I would suggest using a circuit tester # PTW2993, to check your vehicle side connection first. If you have a 4-way flat connector, check the brown wire directly next to the ground post with the probe while the clip is connected to a clean ground. If you have a 7-way connector, the brown taillight wire will be at the 11 o'clock position. If you have a power to that connector, then the vehicle is working correctly. If you do not, then I would recommend checking the parking light fuse,... view full answer...
If the F11 fuse in your 2014 Ram pickup is in good shape then the next thing to check is the brake controller output on your 7-Way socket. Using a circuit tester like part # PTW2979, test the pin in the 5 o'clock position while using the manual override with your brake controller set to the highest power output setting. If you are getting power on this pin then your truck is fine and you need to inspect the brake wiring on your trailer. If you aren't getting power on this pin then either... view full answer...
Although I'm not quite sure what you are referencing when you say your ground is not working there is a way you can find out if the issue is on the brake controller, truck, or trailer. To test the brake controller, sever the blue wire a couple inches from the back of your controller. Then use a circuit tester such as # PTW2979 to test the end of the blue wire coming out of the controller. It should only have power when you apply the manual override; if it shows power at idle then there... view full answer...
The best magnetic tow lights for flat towing your 2016 Ram 2500 are an option from Pilot:
- Roadmaster Standard Magnetic Tow Lights # RM-2120
I really like the # RM-2120 because they are the easy to install. They have a simple connector that will plug into either a 7-way or 4-way and 20 feet of wire. view full answer...
The low pressure sensor valve on the # AL25592 can have air flowing through either side of it. It is not a one way valve. When you removed the air line that would have released all of the air pressure out of the system. Try inflating the bags with either the manual inflate valve or the compressor. view full answer...
I called my contact at B&W and told them about the problem you are experiencing with excessive noise and they did have a possible solution for you. If you have the B&W Companion OEM 5th Wheel Hitch part # BWRVK3600 or part # BWRVK3670 then you will want to readjust the cam's. This procedure is outlined in the attached photo and on page 4 in your instruction manual. You will want to perform the adjustments with the trailer attached to the vehicle as this will ensure the proper adjustments... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a short somewhere on your circuits. You can start by inspecting the 7-Way connector on your 2017 Ram and your trailers to make sure that they are clean and do not have any debris in them.
If those look good then the next step would be to inspect all of your grounds and make sure that they have a solid connection to a clean, bare metal surface. Even some paint could cause a bad ground which results in a short.
Since this problem is happening with both trailers... view full answer...
Since the truck works fine with other trailers and the trailer works fine with other trucks the issue must be compatibility between the brake controller and the trailer brakes. Check the brake controller and make sure it is in the correct mode (electric for electric brakes or electric over hydraulic for electric over hydraulic trailer brakes) if the brake controller has both modes.
The controller on your 2014 Ram 2500 might be more sensitive to ground or short issues than the other trucks... view full answer...
You will want to contact your local Ram dealer to determine if there is a ECU Flash which will fix the issue of the charge line sending power when the ignition is switched off. I do know this was an issue with older Ram trucks and the only way to resolve this was by installing a Relay # BDW42035 in line of the charge line. This will allow you to connect the switched side of the relay to an ignition source so power only flows through the charge line with the ignition switched on. view full answer...
Lance decided to be unique and come up with their own plug which can be pretty frustrating. According to my research the reverse light function should be the pin in the 11 o'clock position when you're looing at the camper end plug head-on.
Normally we recommend just replacing the Lance 6-Way plug with an industry standard 7-Way plug like the Hopkins # H20043 and then using an in-bed 7-Way for your truck, like the Mighty Cord # A10-7010, so everything is easier to relate to standard 7-Way... view full answer...
According to Bolt if you are using the emergency key from the FOB for your 2015 Ram it could be hard to get enough leverage to turn the key and unlock the hitch lock. Jiggling while turning may help to unlock the lock with the emergency key.
They lock codes itself to the key when you insert the key, turn it once, and then remove the key. If you inserted the pin before removing the key that could have affected the tumblers inside and permanently coded it wrong. Since they cannot be re-coded... view full answer...
You have isolated the issue to the truck and already checked the fuses and the trailer connector. If you haven't used your owner's manual to check all the fuses and relays for towing just to be sure.
Next, I would check that the ground connection is good and clean as well. It needs to be grounded to bare metal. If this checks out, the problem is on the wiring itself. If you follow the wires from the backside of the 7-way, there is another connector that the trailer harness plugs into.... view full answer...
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