It sounds to me as if you have a ground problem too. You have done all of the testing and it points to ground so I think you most likely have a light mounting bracket that is not making ground to the trailer frame. If the brackets for your tail lights are bolted to the frame, take them loose and clean all of the rust and road debris out. Make sure when you bolt them back down that they are contacting bare metal on both the frame and the light bracket and that they are tight. If your brackets... view full answer...
It sounds like your exhaust may be rattling against the hitch when at idle. This is a fairly common problem that can be fixed pretty easily. Basically you will have to reposition the exhaust so that it is further away from the hitch and will no longer contact it at idle.
I attached a help article and video for you to check out that will detail how to fix the problem. view full answer...
The T-One Connector with Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite, # 118518, works with a trailer that has LED or regular incandescent lights. The type of lights on the trailer is not going o cause the problem you are experiencing. A hyperflash situation could be the result of bulb burned out on the vehicle, or the vehicle thinking there is a bulb burned out because the wiring harness was added.
There are a couple of things you are going to want to check. First, make sure that the white ground... view full answer...
The NC will be displayed on the controller if there is no trailer connected, when the manual override switch is adjusted. Per the instructions that should have been included with the brake controller, it states that if there is no trailer connected and the manual knob is activated, NC will be displayed. It appears as if the brake controller is working properly for you. view full answer...
Although we have not had the chance to install a 7-way on a 2018 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, what we do know is that you can install a 4-way on your vehicle using the Curt # C59496. This is a good place to start. When adding a 7-way like the # ETBC7 the main functions you are looking for are the 12V power and the brake output.
I took a look at your vehicle and as far as I can tell there is no 12V battery under the hood like there normally would be. Instead, you have a 12V auxiliary battery... view full answer...
Since you have tested the vehicle side connector and they work correctly, you have eliminated the vehicle side as being the problem. So you will want to check the trailer wiring and the ground connections on the trailer.
The Peterson M545 trailer wiring kit you have mentioned uses a wishbone harness like the Optronics Standard Trailer Light Kit # TL29BK that we sell. This means it will have 5 wires coming out of the back of the 4-pole connector. That might be why it looks like it does... view full answer...
The first thing to check for a factory fuse that is missing or blown. Check the vehicle owner's manual for any and all fuses related to the tow package wiring so you can check them.
If all the fuses are good and in their proper places, then you will need to test the harness to determine if it is the problem. Use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993. Test the wiring going into the converter from the vehicle. If there is no power, there then the issue is a fuse or a wiring issue on the vehicle... view full answer...
Is it possible that a fuse is getting blown when you hook up the trailer? I would focus on the vehicle side of the equation to begin troubleshooting, without the trailer connected. This way you can start with a clean slate, and concentrate on getting the vehicle lighting back to functioning as it should.
To start, I would recommend disconnecting the black power wire from the # C59496 wiring harness from your vehicle battery. Then, disconnect the positive and negative cables from the... view full answer...
What you described sounds like your Primus IQ part # TK90160 isn't mounted level and because of that is behaving erratically at low speeds. I attached a picture that shows how it has to be mounted.
The wire you used for the red wire of the brake controller appears to be the correct one based on what you described. view full answer...
With having a Curt Upgraded Circuit Protected Powered Tail Light Converter # C59496 on your vehicle you will not be able to connect your vehicle and trailer wiring directly. The converter reduces draw on the factory wiring and send power to the trailer lights from the vehicle battery. If you were to connect the wiring directly you risk damaging the wiring by putting the additional draw on the thin factory wires. view full answer...
The first thing you will want to check is the hardware used to install the trailer hitch on your 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. If the hardware is not properly torqued down to the specifications indicated in the instructions (linked to the right for reference) then that could be the issue.
The hardware has to be torqued to the specifications. Too loose and the hitch can come off. Too tight and it can damage the hitch and vehicle frame.
If the hardware is torqued properly then you might... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a ground issue.
You will want to start off by checking all of the grounds on your trailer and making sure that they are securely connected with a clean metal-to-metal connection. Rust and sometimes paint can sometimes cause issues with wiring. Checking the ground on your 2001 Mitsubishi Montero is a good idea as well.
Since it really sounds like a faulty ground connection, I doubt it is the converter unit in the Curt # C55380, but you can check that too by using... view full answer...
A short could cause your Primus brake controller # TK90160 to think that a trailer is connected. You can check the 7-Way trailer connector at the back of the vehicle and check for any corrosion on the inside, where the wires attach, and outside on the pins. Also check for any loose, damaged, or pinched wires while you are back there.
Another possibility is dirty contacts on the inside of the brake controller. What you can do for this is apply the manual override fully then let it snap... view full answer...
Yes. A bad ground connection can cause all sorts of wiring issues including not allowing the system to work at all. If there is a bad ground, the circuit will not be completed or it would only work intermittently. The ground should be connected to a clean bare metal surface that is free of corrosion.
With the T-One Connector with Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite, # 118518, if the fuse is blown, that would also not allow the system to work. However, if the fuse has blown, that would... view full answer...
According to Hopkins installation manual, the E2 error indicates that there is a blue wire short somewhere in along the trailer wiring or a possible defective magnet in the brake assemblies.
First, you will need to check the blue wiring from the brake controller to the the trailer electric brakes. Check your electrical connection between the your vehicle and your trailer. The plug might not be making a secure connecting, causing an intermediate signal.
There could be an electrical short... view full answer...
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