Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Video Transcript for Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2014 Scion xB

All right, on this 2014 Scion XB, we're going to show you the Curt T-connector vehicle wiring harness with a 4-pull slack trailer connector, part number #C56035. I'm going to go ahead and show you how to use it, when it's not being used it can stay in a compartment here or here, and when you do need to use it, just simply pull it out and shut the door hatch on it. The door seals thick is thick enough it won't hurt anything, you've got more than enough wire to go down to your trailer, and when you shut the hatch, stay away from the latch here or else you'll damage the wire and you'll be starting all over.At this point you're ready to hook up your trailer. We'll go ahead and cover the components that come with the kit, first off this is a t-part of the connector, you've got 2 of them, the one with the yellow wire goes to your driver side, and the green wire goes over to the passenger side. These wires send signals to the module right here, this module actually copies the signal and uses battery power from this black wire here to power the trailer, that way your vehicles' wiring harness is insulated from the trailer. We have a white wire here for ground, that'll go to the sheetmetal on the body of the vehicle, then It comes out to the 4-pull slack trailer connector with a cover for it as well.

You get batter power, it does come with a length of wire to run to the front of your vehicle, once you get up to the battery, it does come with a fuse and a fuse holder, then we have a small parts package here with some zip-ties, ring terminals, Butt connectors to make your connections.One other thing I suggest is to maybe get some extra zip-ties because I typically run out of zip-ties before the install. Firstly you're going to get your vehicle ready to install a wire harness. We need to loosen up and remove some panels, first off, we need to remove our floor coverings. Next up is the tray over the spare tire, next up is this tray, we have to remove it, there's a fastener here, and here you have to remove using a 10mm socket. While still inside let's go ahead and remove this panel, that will give us access behind the tail-light, you just need a flat-head screwdriver to pop it loose.

Do the same thing over on the passenger side, now we can go ahead and start making our first connections. Our T-Connector is going to install to this connection point right here behind the tail-light, we push down the small tab right here and can pull it apart. We'll take the T-Connector for the yellow wire, we're going to route it up underneath the plastic, then we'll simply put the T-Connector in-between the 2 halves.Next, we're gonna take our T-Connector with the green wire and we're gonna run that over to the other side, do the same thing over on the passenger side. You can actually run it behind the plastic here and up into here as well, if you need to take out this tray, same 2 fasteners as before, but pretty easy to route it underneath there. All right, let's go ahead and work for the black wire here for our module, let's go ahead and add the Butt connector, let's go ahead and cramp it down in place.

We'll take our long length of black wire and go ahead and add it to it. Now like we stated earlier, this needs to be ran into the front, so to get out of inside the vehicle we're going to go ahead and run it through this grommet right here. To run the wire through the grommet, we're going to use the old classic poke of a screwdriver, let's go ahead and run a wire through. We'll need enough slack in the wire so we can copy the length of this wire here so it will be out of the way.The last wire on the inside of the vehicle will be our ground wire here, we can simply attach it to the sheet-metal right here, we'll use the provided self tapping screw for that and a 1/4in nut driver with it. Go ahead and install the screw first then I'll add my wire, let's go ahead and find a place to attach our module, I'm going to clean off some sheet-metal right in this area right here.

Not 100% flat but the adhesive should grip enough of it, take the adhesive, 1/2 on the module and we'll go ahead and attach it to the sheet-metal. Now we'll go ahead and take a few moments to zip-tie our wires to make sure they're safely and securely out of the way. Once we're done with our zip-ties, we'll go ahead and cut off the tails.Let's go ahead and simply work our way over to the other side and attach our green wire to this pre-existing wire here, let's bundle up the last of it. Let's go ahead and take a few moment's to go ahead and put our cover onto our 4-pull, protect the one that's not being used. At this point we can go ahead and re-install the in-chair components, as we do that we're gonna make sure we have full access to our wire harness. Now go ahead and route our wire towards the front of the vehicle, when we do this make sure to stay away from anything moving, like suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. When you get up to the front of the vehicle, you want to make sure you stay away from the steering components as well.Everyone is going to wonder why this is a little bit different, this is how we did ours, he's a grommet we ran a wire through, over these components and thread it through some lines. Just make very loose wraps around it to help hold it in shape and zip-tie it in a few different places, it was actually able to come around this side here and pull it over the tank here and come out in front of the tank. We just want to ran along with these lines going up toward the front, they actually fit in the brackets that holds the line in place. We use that to help support a wire, again, follow these lines up to the front and now we're up to our firewall. Next we'll go ahead and install a pull-wire, now I'm using an old piece of airline tubing, this can be also any wire that's flexible and can still hold it's shape as you guide it down there.Now, here's our pull out the bottom, we'll go ahead a connect our wire to our pull-wire, then we're going towards the top. Make sure to take up all of our slack, then we'll make any alterations we need to to routing our wire, then we'll zip-tie it to hold it in place. Let's go ahead and route our wire over to the positive side of our battery, then we'll cut off our excess. Let's go ahead and get this wire ready, another provided Butt connector, then add our fuse holder. The other end will get a ring terminal, let's take this and add this to the positive side of our battery.Take the lid off, then loosen up this nut right here, go ahead and take our ring terminal, add it to our post and re-install the nut. Since our Butt connector is sitting outside this time, we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some electric tape. We can go ahead and put our provided fuse into the fuse holder, at this point we can ahead and tuck the wires away, one more zip-tie to take up the slack. Everything's hooked up, let's go ahead and give it a try, now it's always a good idea to test out your floor pull, or inaudible 00:10:53 connection before you try with the trailer to verify it's still working.We'll take the ground from our tester, connect to our white wire, we'll check our brown wire for a running light circuit, test our yellow wire for a left turn signal, and then green for our right turn signal. We'll hit the brake and make sure for we look for a constant signal on the yellow and green wires. With that, it looks like everything's working, with that, that'll finish it for a Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness With a 4-pull Slack Trailer Connector, part #C56035 on our 2014 Scion XB. .