Brake Controller Set Up For A 1983 Ford F-100

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Question:

I have a 1983 Ford F-100 that I do some towing with. I do not currently have a trailer brake setup on the truck, but did recently confirm that my single car/dual axle trailer has them on the rear axle despite there being a 4-Pin plug installed. Im not new to towing, but I am entirely new to setting up a trailer with trailer brakes. Hoping to get some advice on what controller would be the best, as well as a 7-Pin wiring harness for both truck and trailer. I dont mind spending some money to get good stuff, but also dont like wasting money where it isnt worth it. In the next year, Im planning to pick up a newer truck to handle most of the future towing, but wouldnt mind having this one set up well as a backup. The truck has only a 4-Pin connector coming out of it now. A couple of the wires are broken, but I have tested those and they work as they should. Can you provide me with some recommendations here? Seems a lot of the newer, nicer controllers want to connect directly to existing plugs on the vehicle. As far as I know, I dont have any such luxury on this truck. Is it as simple as connecting fused +12VDC, a ground, and running a wire back to the 7-Pin hoping I can tie directly into the existing 4-Pin with a mounted 7-Pin connector? Or is there some sort of data that these newer controllers are picking up from the vehicle for better braking control? Sorry for the dumb questions! I appreciate any help/guidance.

asked by: Christopher W

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Expert Reply:

To be able to engage brakes on your trailer using a brake controller requires a few different parts. Lets first start on the trailer. With your trailer having brakes already but having a 4 flat harness instead of a 7 round you will need to use the following parts to install a 7-way plug:

7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector # H20044, measures 6 feet including the connector. The following functions are as followed, white wire is ground, red wire is left turn and brake, brown wire is right turn and brake, green wire is tail lights, blue wire is brake power, black wire is 12V hot lead, yellow wire is for aux.

Next you will need to install The Junction Box # 3375601101 and Ring Terminals # 44-5310A to join the current 4 flat harness on the trailer and the 7-way plug mentioned above.

With the trailer done lets move to the 1983 Ford F-100.

Next you will have to make the 4-flat connector into a 7 round adapter. The 7-Way RV Upgrade Kit for Trailer Brake Controller Installation # ETBC7L. This will plug into the 4 flat connector above and come with 4 additional wires with only three being used because of the brake controller I recommend later on. The wires you will need to deal with is the black wire which will connect to battery with fuse or breaker for 12V power source. The white wire will connect to the vehicle's frame. The yellow wire is for 12V power , reverse lights, or reverse lockout for trailer brakes this wire will likely not be needed at all and can be capped off.

Finally you will need the brake controller. Since you plan on switching vehicles soon and using the current truck as a back up, I recommend The Curt Echo Wireless Trailer Brake Controller # C51180.This controller will activate the trailer brakes in proportion to your vehicle's braking action. This controller is easy to transfer between vehicle's, and can create up to 5 vehicle-trailer profiles in the Echo Smart Control app. You operate this brake controller from the cab of your vehicle using your smartphone.

To have a little extra security The Manual Override Button # C83HR will enable manual activation of the trailer brakes without using your smart phone. The app must be running for button to operate.

I attached a few review video links below.

expert reply by: Noah E

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Answer 1

A 4-Way trailer connector has the basic lighting functions only; running lights, left turn signal and brake lights, right turn signal and brake lights, and ground. A 7-Way has these functions and a 12 volt circuit, a circuit for electric trailer…

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Answer 2

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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Answer 3

If you just need a 4-pin to 7-pin trailer wiring adapter, then you can use part #C57672. This will plug into the 4-pin trailer connector on your brother's vehicle and give him the 7-pin socket for the trailer. Keep in mind, this will only give…

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Answer 4

For sag from towing a trailer the best recommendation I can make is actually a weight distribution system. Suspension enhancement will help level your truck while towing. But the advantage to a weight distribution system is that it levels the vehicle…

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Answer 5

In order to determine the torque rating for the lug nuts on your trailer you will need to know check out the chart I attached that shows all of the torque specs for all the trailer lugs available based on stud size, wheel material and wheel size.

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Answer 6

You're right, the mounting bracket is unique (in a good way) for the Curt TriFlex NEXT Trailer Brake Controller #C24VV. The bracket is smaller and all you do is put the included adhesive tape on the bracket and stick it wherever you like under…

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Answer 7

According to RoadActive Suspension the spring rate for the standard kit #RAS3611-S is 2,400 lbs. For the heavy duty #RAS3611-SHD it is 3,600 lbs. The heavy duty #RAS3611-SLHD is the same but only designed to fit if you have factory top overload…

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Answer 8

You will have to go with a sliding hitch to allow the trailer to make tight turns. For a trailer 8 feet wide the only bed length that's going to allow 90 degree turns without a slider is a stationary hitch. That being said you have two options.…

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Brake Controller Set Up For A 1983 Ford F-100

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