I honestly haven't heard of this type of issue before. Just to be clear, when you just have the light on in your Volvo the trailer lights work perfectly but when you actually start the vehicle the running lights stop working?
If this is the case then the best thing I can recommend trying is testing the wires that are going to the black converter box on the Tekonsha T-One # 118411 with the vehicle running with a circuit tester like # PTW2992. Check to see if you are getting power on the... view full answer...
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On you 2011 Volvo VNL it is normal for relays to be warm when it is on, but not be too hot to touch.
If your relay is too hot to touch there is a few issue that could be going on.
The relay may have an internal short that is allowing it to get hot which would require you to replace the relay in question.
There may be a short in the circuit feeding the relay causing excess heat which would require you to follow the wire coming from... view full answer...
It looks like the Volvo 780 stopped being produced in the early 1990s and was replaced by the C70. So it would appear that if you have a 2006 model year that is like the 780 it would be a C70.
At any rate, the vehicle should have separate brake lights from the turn signals so basically every function would be on a separate circuit. The first thing you can check would be the bulbs (if it uses regular bulbs) and the bulb sockets to determine if there is corrosion or a burned out bulb or... view full answer...
The brake lights and turn signals are sent along the same circuit for trailer wiring so it's a bit odd that the turn signals are working fine but the brake lights aren't powering on with the Tekonsha Harness # 118463 installed. Most likely the culprit is a bad or weak ground on the harness. Since brake lights require a more constant power draw when activated a weak ground might be allowing enough power for the turn signals but not enough to fully power the lights when the brakes are applied.... view full answer...
Roof racks and roof rack mounted accessories tend to be pretty noisy. Especially when you throw a sunroof into the mix. If the noise is the worst with the sunroof open then you will most likely have to close it.
What you can try is repositioning the cargo box so that maybe the wind will hit it differently to see if the noise gets reduced. The install hardware of Thule boxes is adjustable front to back, so you will want to try moving it forward or back on your crossbars and maybe even try... view full answer...
There will be a little bit of play with any hitch ball and coupler combination just because there needs to be some room for the trailer coupler to rotate, however it sounds like you might be getting a bit more than normal. I recommend first just making sure that you are using a compatible hitch ball size for the coupler on the trailer. Usually the size ball a coupler works with will be stamped underneath the coupler itself. Make sure it is compatible with a 2 inch hitch ball like what you... view full answer...
The 12V power circuit in an aftermarket 7-way connector like # 37185 will usually be connected to the vehicle battery through a 40-amp circuit breaker like # PK54540. This installation provides for 12V power at the connector contact at all times, even when the vehicle is off and even when no trailer is connected. Vehicles that have OEM wiring could be set up differently so that the ignition key controls the 12V feed to the trailer socket.
Trailer brake controllers do draw some power at... view full answer...
If your trailer doesn't have brake lights but does have turn signals, the most likely thing I can think of that may be the issue with the Curt # C56386 is the that the trailer has separate turn and brake lights.
If it does, that would mean it is on a 3-wire system where the turn signals and brake lights are not on the same circuit. If that's the case what you would need is a converter for the trailer, the Curt # C56196 (note this is not compatible with LED lights). view full answer...
For your 2018 Volvo XC90 with 275/40-21 tires, I can't 100% confirm that you won't need the 22mm adapter, but chances are extremely slim. From all the online forums, the Volvo's have consistently used 19mm for years.
The Konig Premium Self-Tensioning Snow Tire Chains - Diamond Pattern - D Link - K-Summit XXL - Size K67 # TH2004565767 are excellent tire chains that allow for zero internal clearance and are very effective. These chains come with the 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm adapters included.... view full answer...
Start by making sure the ground connection is secure. Assuming it is, I would check the power on the brake controller with a circuit tester like the # PTW2993. I'm guessing it lights up but you can still make sure it is getting enough power by testing the black wire running to it.
Once that is done, check for power on the blue brake output wire exiting the controller while using the manual override. If there is no power here it is likely an internal issue. I would contact Hayes to see... view full answer...
Checking the grounds was a good place to start. I think that it still may be a ground issue. There are several things you can check to determine if it is a ground problem. I would start with the trailer side connector and check for any dirt or corrosion and clean it out. Dirt and corrosion could cause a bad connection or a short which would lead to undesired results.
Next, I would check the ground coming out of the back of the trailer connector. It should be connected to a clean and corrosion-free... view full answer...
It is possible the # C56045 is defective, yes. But you can check a few things first, and start by taking a look at your owner's manual to locate any fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order. I know it's pretty basic and you likely have already done it but I did want to mention it.
Next check the ground wire and make sure it is good (this was done on step 5 in the instructions) as a bad ground can lead to all types of funky issues. If that's good, and the fuses... view full answer...
It sounds like you might have a weak ground connection or corrosion in one of the bulbs on the taillight circuit on the trailer. Since you tested with a circuit tester and a different trailer is working properly the issue should be found on your trailer.
The wiring kit, # 119250KIT, on your 2004 Volvo XC90 has a sophisticated signal converter that can detect weak grounds and corrosion that can cause bleed over on the trailer circuits and will cut off the power to that circuit. Plugging... view full answer...
Thank you for the photo of the display on your Curt TriFlex trailer brake controller # C24VV that shows what looks like a letter U. There is no such actual letter U among the various operating and troubleshooting codes so I think potentially what may have happened is that part of the display has failed, and it is no longer showing the entire code.
The nearest codes to what your unit shows are L.1., which indicates the unit's selected sensitivity level; and L.b., which indicates that the... view full answer...
I would be happy to help!
Based on the issue you are describing you do not have a faulty Curt Echo # C51180, and instead your 2021 Volvo XC90 is not sending power to the 7-way connector until it detects a trailer is plugged in. This is pretty common in newer Volvo's.
What you will need to do is plug the Echo into your 7-way connector like you did, then plug the trailer in. Once the green flashing light appears then go onto the Curt app and pair the Echo.
This will get you all setup and... view full answer...
You can do some testing to find the source of the problem. I recommend using a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 and have someone run through the functions while you test the pins on the vehicle side connector at the rear of your XC90. If you have a plug-in harness the problem could be a set of connectors that are not fully seated. You may have an inline fuse that is blown, or a relay is bad. You also want to make sure the harness is grounded to a clean, bare metal surface.
If you are... view full answer...
I would not recommend using the Swagman XTC4 Bike Rack, # S64665, with your 2001 Volvo V70 T5 if it has a class I or class II trailer hitch with a 1-1/4 inch receiver. This is a pretty heavy bike rack at 65 lbs that was designed for 2 inch trailer hitch receivers only. You most likely have a 1-1/4 inch receiver, but if you have a trailer hitch with a 2 inch receiver, then I would not recommend using a hitch extender.
You can determine the size of your trailer hitch receiver by measuring... view full answer...
I contacted my tech contact at Yakima and he said there could be a couple things going on with your Yakima RidgeBack 4 Bike Rack # Y02458.
If your wedge tightens and engages, make sure you are locking the red knob after tightening. While this may be obvious, locking the red knob prevents the wedge from working itself loose while on the road.
Beyond this, there could be an issue with the wedge assembly, however, I will need some photos of this part and bike rack to evaluate what the issue... view full answer...
Don't worry. Since you know and trust your local mechanic who did the hitch install, chances are that the rattling noise you're now hearing after hitch installation is simply the fairly common issue of the muffler coming into contact with the hitch tube. This is not cause for concern and it is easily remedied. The linked article addresses this matter and offers several ways to fix it.
Auto makers do not install their muffler hangers with the same precision that is applied to other components... view full answer...
Typically with T-one style trailer wiring harness like the part # C56285 with issues like this fix is to just disconnect and reconnect the connectors which ensures the pins end up fully seated. Otherwise you'll need to use a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 to test for voltage on input side of box and output. If input is there but nothing on output the issue is the converter box is shorted out. view full answer...
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