You likely have a bad or missing fuse or relay in the power distribution box under the hood. Look for a 25A fuse in position 90 and a relay in position # 102. Examine the fuse and replace if necessary. It's not typically possible to look at a relay and be able to determine if it's bad, but you can replace it with an adjacent relay to see if that activates the circuit.
If that doesn't fix the problem, given the fact that the vehicle is 8 years old, before taking it to the dealer, I'd just... view full answer...
Since you are using a suitable tow vehicle and your 5th wheel trailer is new I suggest you check the air pressure in your Trailair pin box to ensure it is inflated correctly. It sounds like you are not getting those benefits so air pressure adjustment would be the simplest potential fix.
The internal air bag should be inflated (with the loaded trailer hitched) until the outer cylinder of the shock rises high enough to fully expose the yellow inflation indicator sticker. Please refer to... view full answer...
My technical contact at Reese gave me a possible option/solution for your Reese Elite # RP30921 not closing when using a Reese sidewinder pin box.
He suggests the first thing to do is to remove the wedge from your sidewinder and insert your king pin to make sure there is not an issue with your head unit.
If your fifth wheel will still not close he said you may be coming in too high or your bin box should be lower when you are hitching. If you adjust these items and your fifth wheel hitch... view full answer...
Tire failure is usually caused by a few things. It can be from overloading the trailer, improper tire inflation, and/or exceeding the speed rating for the tire.
You should verify that the tire capacity you have for you trailer is adequate for how much your trailer weighs.
The pressure ran in the tires makes a big difference in longevity too. ST tires should be ran with the full pressure rating stated on the side of the tire, for full load capacity and longevity of the tire. If lower pressures... view full answer...
The first thing I would do is to check the actual pins of the connector using a circuit tester, such as part # PTW2993 and check each of the pins for voltage - if you are still not receiving voltage, then check any fuses or relays that are related to the tow package wiring in the power distribution box. There should be a 20-amp fuse in fuse location #9 and a 1/2 ISO relay in relay location # 202 for the left turn/stop lamp. This information will be found in your owner's manual or inside... view full answer...
The blue wire on a brake controller is output to the trailer brakes. If that wire is not connected the trailer brakes will not be getting any power. If there is a break in that wire somewhere between the controller and the trailer connector then that could be why it isn't working when the wire is connected. You could bypass it by running your own wire if you wanted to.
The ABS system should be separate from the wiring for the brake controller. Usually the only time the ABS comes into play... view full answer...
It sounds like you may have a short on one of the circuits. I would first recommend checking the connection on your vehicle wiring harness just to be sure that there isn't an issue with the connection there; make sure that it is clean and free from corrosion. If there is any sign of rust or damage to the harness this might be giving you a bad connection the running lights and right directional and consequently it should be replaced. You should also take a few seconds and use a circuit tester... view full answer...
I wonder if the landing gear legs on your 2015 Montana have retracting inner tubes that if you were to retract them would give you additional clearance.
Does the trailer sit level when connected to your trailer? If so, then you would not want to raise the front of the trailer.
If you do end up needing to raise your 1999 Ford F350 the best way to do it would be with a lift kit. We don't sell those but you shouldn't have a problem finding one for you vehicle. view full answer...
What probably happened was when the 4-Way connector was damaged on your 2004 Ford F-250 it could have caused a short in the tow package wiring for the brake light/trunk signal circuits or it is damaged further forward somewhere on the truck.
If none of the tow package fuses are blown and you can't see any other damage then the easiest solution would be to hardwire in a new 4-Way using # 18252. This is a basic hardwire 4-Way that comes with a circuit tester and quick splice connectors.
The... view full answer...
If activating one function on your 7-way trailer connector causes another circuit to activate this usually means there is a corrosion problem in the truck 7-way socket. Since the issue did not occur with the other truck this suggests the problem is on the F-350 rather than on the trailer.
Corrosion in vehicle or trailer wiring can occur inside the connectors, where it is very hard to spot, as water slowly migrates inside them and becomes trapped. This can lead to corrosion that can cause... view full answer...
Since you have already checked that your fuses are good and you are otherwise not getting a signal to the plug on your 2007 Ford F-250 you will need to do some basic troubleshooting.
Start by checking to make sure the wires are fully seated in your truck's trailer connector; if they are not that would explain why you were not getting a signal when you tested it. Also check both your connector for corrosion, which can be green or white in color. A build-up of corrosion can interfere with... view full answer...
The truck pulling to the left when braking indicates to me that it is braking harder on the left side when you apply the brakes. This could indicate that more voltage, possibly due to a short circuit is getting to that side. It could also mean that the brakes on the trailer are adjusted out more on the left side. And it also could mean that during a braking event, as the trailer momentum pushes forward, it is pushing more to one side than the other causing the truck to pull.
You will want... view full answer...
Since the trailer lights work perfectly when connected to a different truck, the issue certainly appears to be somewhere on your 2000 Ford F-250. You did mention that you checked the fuses in your truck, but I recommend verifying that the 7.5A mini fuse located in the number 3 position (inside the power distribution box in the engine compartment) is present and in good condition. This is the particular fuse on your F-250 that is for the trailer right stop/turn lamp.
If that fuse is okay,... view full answer...
I was able to look up your order that you placed for the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 # 90195 and it looks like you ordered the Plug-In Wiring Adapter # 22292. This is compatible with newer Ford F-350 models but it is not the correct adapter for your 2011 F-350.
For your F-350 you will want the Plug-In Wiring Adapter # 3034-P instead. They have the same connector for your F-350 but they are wired differently. If you are still having problems after switching out your adapter let me know and I can... view full answer...
I do know that the 7-Way replacement connector # 118242 that we offer for the 2001 Ford F-250 light duty models will include the necessary relays and fuses for installation, so the flasher issue could very well be that you are missing a required fuse or relay. This would be something you could check with Ford.
Please note that the 118242 wiring harness is only a fit for the F-250 light duty models. If your vehicle is a Super Duty model and is equipped with a factory tow package, you... view full answer...
I spoke to my contact and B and W and he told me that their hitches don't usually squeak. If anything they would rattle if something wasn't tightened down all the way.
In most cases squeaks come from trailers and not from the hitches. It would be hard to do, but if you can get someone to ride in the bed of your truck while traveling at a low speed in a straight line preferably somewhere like an empty parking lot you could hopefully pin point where the squeak is coming from. view full answer...
There could potentially be a couple of issues going on at the same time. The first thing you are going to want to do is make sure all the functions works on the truck side with no trailers connected. Use your tester to test the connector while someone sits in the truck and runs through the lighting functions.
If the truck side turn signals are not working then you will want to check the vehicle owners manual for the locations of the fuses and relays related to the tow package wiring. One... view full answer...
The issue here is, with a great deal of certainty, on your truck and it's wiring harness. The first thing you'll want to do before starting is make sure that your vehicle's 7 way connector is free of dirt and debris. It could be something as simple as a dirty connection that is keeping voltage from passing through.
You'll need to determine which circuit on your 2008 Ford F-350's wiring harness is tied into the interior lights; it could be the auxiliary power circuit or the 12v circuit.... view full answer...
Since your trailer is brand new I suggest a visit to the selling dealer or to another authorized service/repair center. Small parts such as light lenses are easy to replace and inexpensive, but troubleshooting the blown fuse problem is not. Finding and correcting this problem is the dealer's responsibility (if the problem is indeed on the trailer side) but if you cannot do that then I suggest you test the truck's wiring, without the trailer connected, to see if you can isolate the source... view full answer...
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