I wasn't able to find your order number so I'm not sure what harness you purchased from us specifically for your 2015 Ford Explorer, but if it was the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540, and you didn't have the two connectors, you would only need to plug it in to the connector shown in the accompanying photo I added. This is from the linked video install of this harness on a 2015 Explorer. If you did this and the connectors matched up but you still don't have power there are a number... view full answer...
We personally have not heard of this, but I spoke to my contact at Curt and he had a couple ideas for what could have been going on. First he thought that maybe you are lining up your hitch to the wrong holes, and this would explain why the second set of installation holes do not line up.
Second he thought that maybe you have a very early model 2006 Ford Explorer and you would actually need the Curt hitch part # C13550 and not the # 13112 that you have.
The easiest way for you to tell... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Tekonsha regarding the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118540 that you installed on your 2017 Ford Explorer. He said that on the rear driver side corner of your vehicle there are 2 factory connectors available, one is grey and the other is black. You just want to make sure you are connecting this harness into the black connector. Based on the issues you described in your question, it is likely that it has been connected to the grey port on your Explorer.
If this... view full answer...
First, thank you for your many prior purchases from etrailer.
I reviewed the items you ordered and note you did not replace your hub/drums. If the existing hubs are badly worn they may not allow the new brakes to grab as much as they could. The hub will be cast with a maximum hub bore diameter after which it is considered worn out. If the drums were recently resurfaced they may now be too large. Also, never-adjust brakes DO require some initial manual adjustment. The self-adjusting feature... view full answer...
The factory harness on your 2017 Ford Explorer simply terminates into a end cap as the additional harness is not needed on every model. You will remove the harness from the end terminal to be able to install the Tekonsha T-One Wiring Harness # 118540. Likely the connector has some moisture and dirt that has gotten into the connector causing it to stick and not want to remove from the harness. You will want to ensure the catch is disengaging from the connectors and slowly wiggle the connectors... view full answer...
It sounds like your ground could be the problem in this situation. The Ground wire on the Blue Ox Tow Bar Wiring Kit # BX8848 needs to be run to a main Ground or installed directly to a clean, bare metal surface on the chassis of your 2012 Ford Explorer. If you ran the white Ground wire from your 4-Way to the tail lights then you could possibly be getting some residual signal which could be causing your hazard lights to flash.
Go ahead and disconnect the Ground wire and Ground it to see... view full answer...
I spoke with Pop and Lock about the Pop & Lock Power Lock Conversion Kit for Truck Caps part # PAL9772 and they as well seem to think the issue was with a lack of lubrication. The recommended type of lubrication is graphite compound. view full answer...
Thank you for your purchase from etrailer for your 2017 Ford Explorer of the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118540.
The only reason I can think of why this may have happened is if you have plugged the harness into the wrong plug . On some models there is both a black and a gray factory connector, and you need to make sure you plugged it into the black connector.
I have added a link below to a video install on a '17 Explorer for you as well. view full answer...
From the research I did I recommend checking the fuse panel inside of your engine bay on your 2003 Ford Explorer. Using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 check fuse number 13 which is a 40amp fuse and verify that there is power on both sides of the fuse.
If there is power to the fuse I would double check the connection between the factory harness and your trailer brake controller. Focus on the black power wire, and make sure that it is securely plugged in, that it isn't loose in the connector,... view full answer...
If there is no noise from the contact between the exhaust hanger and the hitch then you don't have to do anything. If there is noise or you just want some more space then there are some things you can do to create more space.
I have included a link to a help article that covers the different methods you could employ. If all else fails then a muffler shop would be able to take care of the issue pretty easily since they have the tools and the know-how to work on exhaust systems.
I doubt... view full answer...
There can be a very small amount of power on the brake output circuit of a 7-Way (5:00 position) which would be the brake controller checking for a trailer, but there should not be 12 volts of power. That indicates a short of some kind or a problem with the brake controller. Since you said you recently added the 7-Way it is possible that inside the connector where the wires attach the 12 volt circuit wire is touching the brake output circuit causing the constant draw.
If you address that... view full answer...
It sounds like adding the incandescent light could be causing too much draw on the circuit.
In this case I recommend using a light like the Optronics Heavy Duty LED Trailer License Plate Light, # LPL41CB, which would draw just a fraction of the power of the incandescent light. view full answer...
You will want to make sure the 12v pin of your 7-way is getting power using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. This is the 1 o'clock pin position on your truck side connector. That pin when it has power should allow the Curt Echo # C51180 to have the LED light up.
I looked up your owners manual and it looks like fuse 57 is a 30 Amp fuse. view full answer...
You can check your engine compartment fuse box to see if any fuse/relay locations labeled trailer or towing are blown or just missing and install as needed with the value specified. According to my research there are left and right trailer tow relays required; these are installed near the center of the box.
The Curt 4-pole wiring harness # C56172 is a confirmed fit for your 2013 Ford Explorer and its installation is shown in the linked video. You need to ensure you have fully seated the... view full answer...
I attached a picture of how bright the Optronics LED RV Interior Light # RVILL34 should be. As dim as your are in the picture you submitted makes me think that you either have a bad ground on your assembly or the power source you are using isn't 12 volts. Is it possible your trailer is 6 volts? I kind of doubt it is since you said it was made in 2007.
Use a volt meter # PT89ZR to test the power wire you are using to verify that you are getting full 12 volts at the lights.
You could even... view full answer...
This Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness for Factory Tow Package - 7-Way Trailer Connector # 118272 harness is designed to be used with vehicles that already have a factory tow package. If you don't have that factory tow package, it may not fit. If you don't have the tow package, I recommend you use the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118540. If you do have the factory tow package, it should install to the connection located beneath the vehicle behind... view full answer...
Though we will not have factory wiring diagrams, I am pretty sure I know what is going on and this should be a quick and easy fix. In the passenger compartment fuse box of your 2001 Ford Explorer, there should be a 15A in position 30. This port will handle the park lamp / trailer tow relay and should be all you need to get everything up and running properly.
However, in the off chance this does not get you power to the running lamps, let me know and we can try a few other things. view full answer...
Thank you for the photo of your 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer's trailer wiring harness cap.
Between the age of the plastic material and the exposure to road grime (that might be trapped in the gaps, making cap removal as difficult as possible) I am not too surprised you're finding it tough to get the cap off. Add the fact that there appears to be no way to get a hand around it AND at the same time press the cap release (red arrow) and I can feel your pain.
Here is my thinking. There probably... view full answer...
You should be seeing 12V at the connector for the headlights. I imagine it is not enough power for the tail lights on the trailer. Your problem is somewhere on the vehicle, whether it is the vehicle wiring or the trailer harness.
If the 4-Way is factory installed, start tracing the wire. The wire could have been frayed or nicked or burned and has lost most of the wire core and is no longer able to carry a full 12V.
If you have an aftermarket 4-Way, trace the wire looking for the same... view full answer...
Have you grounded the white wire to the tongue of the trailer? Check that connection, if it is loose or the point where the ground is connected is corroded, you will not have a sufficient ground connection which can cause the problems you are describing. The white wire from the trailer connector should be grounded to the trailer, and the light fixtures themselves are grounded by their physical connection to the trailer frame. view full answer...
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