While it sounds like a wiring issue with the trailer I recommend using a Tekonsha 7-Way, RV-Style Tester # 6562 to test the 7-way and Voyager Brake Controller # 39510 on your 1994 Dodge Ram 2500. This will help you to narrow down and determine if you have issues on the truck portion of the wiring.
I have linked an article for 7-way trailer wiring below that you will help you in testing the the trailer wiring and determining if you have a short that is causing the issues you are having... view full answer...
When all but one light functions fine, the issue can sometimes be that the harness is not connected securely or there's an insufficient or short to a ground on either the trailer vehicle side. There are other potentials as well but to start let's follow these steps to troubleshoot.
Test at the 4-way plug with a circuit tester # PTW2993 for correct functioning. I have included an instructional video of what steps to take. If any function does not have correct power, test the wire going... view full answer...
What's happening is that the Tekonsha Primus IQ part # TK90160 is backfeeding 12 volts to the stoplight circuit (red wire) which it is not supposed to be doing. This circuit on the controller should not be active all the time so this happening would be evidence that something is wrong with the controller. Most likely an internal short that isn't fixable. You might try unplugging the controller and then plugging it back in and see if a hard reset clears up the short. If not, it would be... view full answer...
The method for installing a trailer brake controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 # 90885 in a 2004 Dodge Ram will vary depending on how the truck was equipped from the factory. It does sound like your truck had no factory trailer connector and that the controller unit was installed by hard-wiring.
You can test your 7-way to see if the brake controller's output is reaching it. Disconnect the trailer and have a helper activate the controller's manual override. With a circuit tester like... view full answer...
You have definitely taken all of the correct steps so far. Since you are still experiencing problems after the rewire and installing new lights, I would suspect a ground problem. Especially since you were careful not to pinch or damage any of the new wires.
Rust and corrosion can often show up at ground locations where the wires make contact with the metal. If you used any of the original ground screw holes, I recommend moving them to a clean bare surface on the trailer frame and scrape... view full answer...
Your Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller # 90885 thinks there's a short somewhere in the wiring. My first recommendation is to check the ground, as this is usually the cause of nearly all wiring issues. Ensure that you have a proper ground (i.e touching bare metal).
Next would be to check all the connections to ensure there isn't any loose wires that could potentially be touching and pulling apart and then touching again, giving you the "S.H" error code. I recommend using some... view full answer...
It sounds as if something is wired incorrectly. Which trailer connector is on your truck? A 7 way? A 6 way? Are you using a 6 to 7 way adapter? If so, there are two accepted ways of wiring a 6 way plug. If your adapter uses the center pin for the 12V lead, and the trailer uses the center pin for the brake lead, there is your problem. We offer an adapter that is universal. It can be easily changed to work with either configuration. If this is not the case, please reply and we will look... view full answer...
The wires DO NOT match up color for color. It sounds as if the controller was wired incorrectly, and is most likely inoperable. There are two different color wiring harnesses that Dodge used. If one of the wires on the harness was green, the wires should mate up as follows: The white wire on the harness with the red stripe would supply the 12V, and would connect with the black brake controller wire. The blue wire on the harness with the white stripe provides the braking signal from the... view full answer...
Looks like you have a mid-2000's Dodge Ram truck which uses a TIPM setup for controlling the trailer taillights. This is similar to a fuse box or relay box but only Dodge can service it.
When you short out the TIPM you have to take it to a dealer so that they can reset it, and they will only do this so many times before you have to spend a ton of money to replace it.
The best way around the TIPM is to bypass it all together with the trailer wiring. For that you can use the wiring harness... view full answer...
It sounds like you definitely need to make a change in the trailer suspension. Longer hangers may help but, if the springs are worn out, changing the hangers would not fix the real issue.
Installing longer shackle straps would make the issue worse. Shorter shackle straps would not allow the suspension to work properly either. Check the shackle straps for wear, these are commonly the most worn parts on a trailer suspension, followed closely by the springs. If the holes in the shackle straps... view full answer...
It is very unusual for the brake controller to work with the brake pedal but not with the manual override lever. I recommend testing your wiring and brake controller with the Tekonsha 7-way Trailer Emulator Blade Style Connector # 6562. This emulator is designed to work with Tekonsha brake controllers, like the P2 # 90885, and simulates a load bearing trailer. With the emulator you will be able to confirm if you are getting brake power with the brake pedal but not with the manual lever.... view full answer...
There are a couple of ways to do this, the easiest way would be to use a plug-in tester like # PK12741. Simply plug the tester in to the 7-way trailer connector on your truck and have a helper activate each taillight function while you observe the tester.
A circuit tester like part # PTW2993 could also be used. Turn on the running lights on the truck, ground the tester and touch the pin in the 11:00 position with the probe of the tester. If that pin doesn't show power, you likely have... view full answer...
Sounds like something is mis-wired either on your trailer or truck. Which pin has current all the time when the controller is plugged in? it should be the pin in the 5:00 position. You might also test the controller to as Curt brake controllers are more likely to have internal problems we are finding.
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit... view full answer...
This typically occurs because of a blown or missing fuse in location J01 in the TIPM box located near the battery. The fuse is a green 40 amp cartridge type fuse. If the existing fuse is blown, be sure to check the power feed circuit on the trailer, making sure that there aren't any shorts in that wiring run. Also check the trailer connector on the tow vehicle and on the trailer itself. Check the pins and sockets for corrosion, sometimes corrosion can spread to the interior of the plug... view full answer...
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then apply the manual slide. Using a circuit tester like the Quickee Tester, part # PTW2993, you should get output to the controller side of the wire you severed. If the manual slide activates the trailer brake output wire properly, try the brake pedal. If the brake pedal activates the brake output properly also then the problem is farther back... view full answer...
The first thing I recommend doing is testing the 7-Way at the rear of your Ram with a circuit tester like # PTW2979. Test the pin located at the 1 o'clock position and make sure you are getting appropriate power when the truck's running. This is the 12V charge circuit so if the tester isn't showing anything you know the issue is somewhere on the truck. If you do get power then the problem is somewhere on the trailer side.
If you did not get power with the tester then you will want to... view full answer...
I'm not familiar with the Pod brake controller but I can give you some general brake controller troubleshooting steps to go over.
You will need to find out if the issue is on the brake controller, truck, or trailer. To test the brake controller, sever the blue wire a couple inches from the back of your controller. Then use circuit tester # PTW2979 to test the end of the blue wire coming out of the controller. It should only have power when you apply the manual override; if it shows power... view full answer...
It sounds like the house battery is backfeeding onto the breakaway battery charge line so as long as the ground is connecting it is taking a charge from the tilt battery and that is why your charge light is staying on.
I have a solution for you, you will need a single function diode part # RM-690. You will need to wire it in between the breakaway battery and the tilt battery and it will stop the backfeeding from your tilt battery to the rest of the 12 volt circuit wiring of your trailer.
Check... view full answer...
There is no converter/module to fix your issue that we carry, but I can provide you with a list of parts that will allow you to completely bypass the tow package on your 2003 Dodge Ram. To bypass the tow package you will need to start with the Curt T-Connector Wiring Harness # C55504. This will give you a 4-Way connection for the tail light functions at the back of your Ram.
To replace the 7-Way, you can use the Universal Installation Kit # ETBC7 which will plug into the 4-Way that I... view full answer...
Thank you for providing details about the issue you're having with your trailer's new electric brakes not providing sufficient stopping power. Since your troubleshooting efforts have confirmed that there is a correct 12V braking signal reaching the brake assemblies' wiring, my first suspicions are that the brake assemblies themselves either need adjustment to their star wheel (to increase their grab) or that there is an issue within the brakes, such as a short in the magnets. It is also... view full answer...
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