The lubrication of the bearing for the fan can wear off and become uneven, causing the fan to become very noisy until it spins enough to spread the lubrication around again. You can try reaching out to Furrion for a fix but you'd likely be told it's just something you'll have to live with since you'd have to dismantle the oven to get to the fan and dismantling the unit would void any manufacturer warranties. view full answer...
Without knowing the exact brand of brake controller or being positive about the model of electric over hydraulic actuator, I won't be able to provide you with much in the way of specifics, but I'd be happy to provide you with some general troubleshooting strategies.
Since you state the electric over hydraulic actuator is operating, I'm leaning more toward there being a problem with the brake controller or the trailer brakes themselves.
Is this a recent problem, or have the brakes always... view full answer...
The Roadmaster Quiet Hitch # RM-062 is a hitch immobilizer intended for use on 2-1/2-inch hitches in a flat-towing application that uses a tow bar to pull a vehicle. It is not designed for use as an anti-rattle device for standard trailer towing, although it might have some positive effect.
I called my technical contact at Diversi-Tech and inquired about your concern with rattle. Although Diversi-Tech does not offer an accessory anti-rattle device to work with their adjustable ball mount
#... view full answer...
It sounds like you have physical damage somewhere in your system since you said this has happened since you hit the gutter in the street.
You said the truck has power at the connector so we can feel sure that the problem lies with the trailer.
You said you are getting power to the side wires on the trailer but you still have no lights. You will want to check the ground on each light to make sure they are attached securely to a clean bare metal surface. If you have a tilting trailer you... view full answer...
You are correct it is your 2015 Ram 3500 because you wisely hooked up the trailers to your wife's SUV and there wasn't an issue. Since there are no blown fuses or bad wiring, it seems likely the issue is simply your trailer connector.
Check your connector for corrosion, which can be green or white in color. A build-up of corrosion can interfere with the signals getting through the connectors so if it is present you are going to need to clean the corrosion if possible or replace the plug... view full answer...
The first thing I recommend checking is the output setting on the brake controller. If adjusting the power level does nothing to solve the problem, then we can work out way back. Check the vehicle and trailer side connectors for any dirt or corrosion because this can cause a short.
Next move on to the trailer and check the wiring for the actuator. The unit must be wired like in the diagram I have included. If there is a short in the breakaway wiring, the pin is pulled out from the switch,... view full answer...
It is generally best to leave a little room for error when applying the weight limits on your 5th wheel to the hitch; if you've got a 20,000-lb 5th wheel, you should be towing with a hitch with a rating above that- something like the # BWRVK3600 which is rated for up to 25,000-lbs (you could get away with a 22,000lb rated hitch as well, like the # RP30033 ).
Generally speaking, these hitches do have a small margin of error built in; plus B&W hitches are a little bit more "overbuilt" than... view full answer...
If you are not getting power to the trailer connector on your 2016 Ram 3500 there are a couple of troubleshooting steps you will need to take. The first thing to do is take a look at your owner's manual to locate any trailer fuses or relays and ensure they are all there and in working order because one of these being blown is normally the most likely culprit.
Should your fuses be in working order to determine the specific problem you will need to purchase a circuit tester if you do not... view full answer...
We've ran into this before, you've either got a blown or a missing 30A fuse in position # F30 in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Also check # F87 for a 10A. Once the fuse is installed, that circuit should power up and work fine for you. view full answer...
I apologize if any of this is redundant but let's first start off by making sure we are testing the correct pin. The correct pin on the vehicle side 7-way trailer connector for the running lights should be in the 11 o'clock position. The wire that leads into this pin should be brown but it can be a different color. I know you said you have checked the fuse already but again just to clarify you should be looking at the F29 terminal for a blue 20 amp fuse. The fuse may not look bad but it... view full answer...
The stock brake controller on your 2015 Ram 3500 is not giving you the proper voltage for safe braking. When you test the 7-way at the 5 o'clock pin when engaging your manual override, you should be getting 12 volts. If you are testing without the manual override you aren't getting a correct reading as the brake controller is proportional and not needing to send more power because you aren't moving.
If you are hitting the manual override, use a tester like # PT89ZR to test without... view full answer...
I would be happy to help.
On the bottom of the hitch ball will be a plastic or aluminum plug. Remove the plug and you will see a bar inside that is used to hold the bearings in place. You will need to rotate the bar 90 degrees to release the bearings, but be careful as the internals of the hitch ball will likely fall out once the bar is turned.
Once the hitch ball is out take a look at all of the components for rust or corrosion that caused it to get stuck. Using a penetrating lubricant... view full answer...
You are correct to have concern here because the Convert-A-Ball Cushioned 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Adapter # CAB-C5G is not recommended for use with the Hide-A-Goose on Ram models from 2013-present. This is because the gooseneck hitch ball that has a plastic handle on top that folds into the hitch ball and the Convert-A-Ball has a nut on the inside that will damage the plastic handle.
An alternative that would work that I recommend is the Ranch Hitch Universal 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Coupler... view full answer...
It sounds like the 7-Way # A7WCB on your new boat trailer is hooked up incorrectly. Since The Curt 5th Wheel/Gooseneck Custom Wiring Harness # C56000 only tee's into the existing wiring this is the only logical explanation. You will need to check the wiring on the boat trailer and either correct the wiring at the 7-way or the junction box on the trailer. If all the wiring is in the correct space you will then need to check the wiring for any shorts that would cause the wiring to back feed... view full answer...
It is very likely the fuse if you are not getting the 12 volt auxiliary power at the 7-way of your 2020 Ram 3500, so you'll want to check your owner's manual to see where that fuse is located or your local Ram dealer can tell you.
If it's not the fuse then it is going to be your 7-way connector so you'll want to use Circuit Tester # PTW2979 to check the 12 volt wire going into the 7-way connector at the plug, and behind where the 7-way plugs into the factory wiring. If there is no power... view full answer...
It sounds as if the trailer running lamp fuse on the 2018 Ram 3500 is blown. The fuse panel is located in the engine compartment near the battery. The fuse for the trailer taillights is located in the F29 location, and is a 20A fuse.
I'd give the running lamp circuit on the trailer a quick lookover to make sure there aren't any short circuits that cause the fuse on the truck to blow. Trace the circuit from the trailer connector rearward, making sure there aren't any loose connections,... view full answer...
You'll want to check fuse location F53 in the fuse box near the battery. The fuse will be a yellow 20A which controls the trailer left turn/stop lamp. Before replacing the fuse, you'll want to closely examine the left turn/stop lamp circuit on the trailer to see if there's a short circuit. Trace the circuit (usually a yellow wire) from the trailer connector rearward until it connects to the taillight assembly. Look for loose connections or pinched or broken wires. Take a close look at the... view full answer...
There are a couple of things that could be causing the hitch jaws not to close and or lock when they should. First make sure the handle is always fully extended and the jaws are open and ready to accept the king pin. The trailer skid plate should be 1/2 an inch lower that the hitch skid plate at its lowest point.
If the jaws are out of sync or even if you suspect that they may not be lined up correctly here is what you can do. First make sure the flip lock is hanging freely in the clockwise,... view full answer...
In regards to weak braking with an electric over hydraulic actuator using the factory trailer brake controller on a Ram 2500/3500, the issue is likely the brake controller. In fact, I ran into this same issue before during an install, the factory Ram controller was set to electric over hydraulic mode but it would still not lock up the brakes. This is common on factory trailer brake controllers because the resistance reading the brake actuator puts out does not get picked up well by the... view full answer...
I took a look at the online owner's manual for your 2017 Ram 3500. It looks like the fuse related to the 12V pin at the 7-Way should be located at the F30 position inside the power distribution center (in the engine compartment). This will be a 30 amp pink fuse. You will just want to make sure this fuse is present and in good condition.
Other fuses on your Ram related to towing are as follows:
F28 - Trailer Tow Backup Lights - 20 Amp Blue
F29 - Trailer Tow Parking Lights - 20 Amp Blue
F53... view full answer...
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