I spoke with Furrion about the issue you are having and they said to have you try "hitting the TV button and then hitting the red power button" to see if that fixes the issue. If not, let me know and we can go from there. view full answer...
If the wiring that you installed connects to factory plugs for trailer wiring on your Fred F-150s then that would explain why you are getting the trailer connected alerts and faults. The only true way to get rid of your trucks reading the light bars would be to install a universal wiring kit like part # 119250KIT so that the truck wiring won't be drawing the power for the light bar on the same circuit. This wiring kit taps into the light functions to know when to trigger the different signals... view full answer...
The Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional # 90885 will show the n.c for only 15 seconds before it just becomes the dot. One dot versus two just means your boost is turned off. I've attached a video to assist as well as the instructions. Your controller is intended to save your settings, so unplugging it and seeing the correct function shows it is working properly. If you plug a trailer in it should show the .c for connection. The n.c. should show... view full answer...
Since you aren't getting any kind of power signal at the pin in the 1 o'clock position on the 7-Way on your 2013 Ford F-150 and you have installed the relay/fuse that is needed, my first thought is to make sure that there is actually wires running to the back of your 7-Way for those pins.
For some reason (and it isn't always consistent) truck manufacturers will sometimes install the 7-Way but not run the wiring all the way down the frame to the 7-Way. Check to make sure that the wiring... view full answer...
It sounds like the issue could be corrosion on your 7-way plug and a good cleaning of the terminals may solve the issue. This may be true even though you have used two separate vehicles to test.
It also may be that you have an issue due to the LED lights and you can use the Trailer Connector Adapter w/ Lamp-Out Sensor Bypass - 7-Way RV to 7-Way RV - Vehicle End # 20142 to solve your issue. This will resolve the hyperflashing and allow your lights including blinkers to function properly.
If... view full answer...
For your 2006 Ford F-150 since you have no power at all for any functions, I recommend checking the following:
Passenger compartment Fuse panel--
Fuse 10
Fuse 14
Fuse 36
Fuse 42
Fuse 105
Fuse 106
Relay R05
Relay R201
Fuses are easy to check for function using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 in the holes of the fuse head but relays just need to be swapped.
If that doesn't solve your issue, double check your connections near the bumper and use your tester to check pin locations. Make sure... view full answer...
Sounds like the P3 part # 90195 was installed properly and is doing it's job to the best of it's abilities but you either have too thin of gauge wire on the brake circuit of the trailer (you need 10 gauge like part # 10-1-1 sold by foot) or you have the brakes out of adjustment and would need to tighten them up a bit.
To see how to manually adjust trailer brake assemblies check out the video I attached, fast-forward to the 4:35 mark of the video. Basically you will adjust the brakes out... view full answer...
I cannot say for certain but based on what you described there are either blown fuses or issues with the trailer connectors. I would first start off checking the fuses. I looked in the owner's manual for your 2003 Ford F-350 and found the following fuses/relays that relate to the trailer lights on your F-350; 6, 38, 39, 101, 115, and 305. These fuses/relays are in the fuse box under the hood.
If the fuses/relays are all good then you need to turn your attention to the trailer connectors.... view full answer...
The kind of sway/bouncing that you described right at 55 miles per hour is due to improper trailer loading nearly every single time. You want to have your tongue weight equal to 10-15 percent of the total trailer weight otherwise you will get sway.
What you need to do is move the weight of as much cargo as you can forward in your trailer so that you can get your tongue weight higher. Doing so will get rid of the sway.
Since you mentioned you have a weight distribution system and are still... view full answer...
I don't believe the issues is stemming from the Hopkins Smart Hitch Backup Camera and Hitch Aligner System # HM50002. I think it is more likely to be a short circuit somewhere along the wiring that is blowing the fuse when you try to hook up a trailer. Since you have tried multiple trailers and the same thing happens I think it is more than likely on the vehicle side. The first thing I recommend doing is disconnecting the trailer and using a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to test the vehicle... view full answer...
It is really unusual to hear that there are water leaks when the roof rack has been properly installed on the truck. You may want to check the measurements again to make sure they are installed in the correct location on the roof of the vehicle and attached correctly to the seam above the door.
Concerning the noise, we have a fairing that helps reduce the noise quite a lot. It is part # TH22WV. This fairing is 52 inches long and easily attaches to the front crossbar of the roof rack and... view full answer...
I would be happy to help.
Since you replaced the Trailer Tow Parks Lamps Fuse 53 in your 2019 Ford F-150 and are now not getting any power to your 7-way connector, I recommend checking fuse 43 as it is for the trailer tow park lamps module.
If that doesn't fix the issue go ahead and check fuse 103 and 74 as that is the two fuses for the other lighting functions.
If you have still have no power to any of the pins of your 7-way connector, and none of the fuses in question are blown, I... view full answer...
There are a few things to look at if the brake controller you just installed on your 2010 Ford F-150 isn't even showing a trailer connection. The good news is that the brake circuit is singled out from your trailer brakes so this will be fairly easy to diagnose.
If your F-150 had the factory 4-Way then you'll need to install the Universal Wiring Kit # ETBC7 to connect your controller back to your trailer 7-Way. If you already have a kit like this installed then you need to check fuse 33... view full answer...
If your 2001 Ford F-150 is equipped with a factory 4-Way trailer connector, the Tow Ready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring, # 118242, should work. There are a couple of things you can check. First, there are a few fuses that need to be installed if you have not done so. I have included a link to the instructions below. The first few steps address the fuses. Also, you can check to see if any fuses are blown. A tow package running light fuse might be blown and need to be replaced.
Also, check that... view full answer...
The factory integrated brake controller in your 2013 Ford F-150 does have a second operation setting for EOH trailer brakes, unlike the 2012 and earlier model year controllers. So, it SHOULD work with your Titan BrakeRite EHB Electric-Hydraulic Actuator # T4813102 WITHOUT the adapter # DX35FR.
If you have access to a trailer with electric brakes you can test the controller (using its electric trailer brake setting, of course) to see if it functions correctly in that mode. If not it is... view full answer...
Sorry to hear your B&W Ball mount got stuck in the surge brake coupler of your new boat trailer!
Based on the picture you provided you should be able to remove the ball mount by disengaging the coupler latch located at the front of the coupler which I pointed out in the included picture.
If this does not release the ball send me a few pictures of the coupler from different angles so I can see exactly how the coupler latch on your actuator works. view full answer...
It sounds like there may some wiring that is not working for your brake system.
I called my contact at Roadmaster and they told me there are three things the system is looking for when running through the test.
First it is looking for 12V power form the socket the unit is plugged into. it is also looking for 12V power from the transmitter.
Next, it is checking for frequency from the motorhome.
Last, the stop light switch needs to be wired correctly. On your F-150 the unit needs to... view full answer...
The Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles part # HM56009 which is a fit for a 2019 Ford F-150 uses the vehicle's trailer tow package ports for power. If you're having issues then I recommend checking the trailer towing fuses in the power distribution fuse box.
If you still have issues it will be a good ideal to rule out the umbilical or motorhome using a circuit tester. The only other thing that it could be is the integrated converter which would be the last thing to... view full answer...
On a vehicle side trailer connector the brake lights and turn signals are on the same circuits (one each for the left and the right) because that is what the trailer uses. So it is not unusual that the tester you are using showed power on the turn signal indicators when the brake pedal was pressed on your 2004 Ford F-150. They should also come on when the turn signals are used.
Assuming that all the functions work on the truck side, the problem must be on the trailer side. It could be... view full answer...
I have a solution for you but most of the suspension enhancement systems, like Timbrens, are designed to help when carrying a heavy load and are not as effective when the truck is unloaded.
The RAS Suspension Kit # RAS3611-B upgrades your vehicle's factory suspension for improved stability, handling, and control. The mechanically active system eliminates axle wrap and wheel hop. This comes fully assembled and is easy to install.
Another option that is the SuperSprings # SSA28. This... view full answer...
Go To Results