Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Standard drawbar included.
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Specs:
Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2015 Ford Edge we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver. This is a class 2 hitch. Part number C12140. Here's what the hitch looks like when it's installed on your vehicle. Here on the receiver tube we've got our 1/2 inch hitch pin hole. We've got a reinforcement collar here around the inch and 1/4 by inch and 1/4 receiver tube opening.
It's got the flat steel with holes that have been cut into it for any safety chains. Here you can see the cross tube from the underside of the vehicle. This hitch is easy to install. It simply bolts into place; there's no drilling or welding required. It comes with a nice black powder coat finish that's on top of a base layer to help give it superior rust and corrosion protection. When using hitch mounted accessories such as bike racks or cargo carriers, Curt recommends using a stabilization strap.
You can pick one up, that's part number 18050. It features a max tongue weight rating of 350 pounds and a max trailer weight rating of 3,500 pounds. This vehicle has the ability to open the tailgate just by swinging your foot underneath the rear fascia. With this hitch in place you're still able to do so. Now let's show you how to install it on your vehicle. First thing we'll need to do is remove these 2 10 millimeter nuts.
Then we'll repeat that on the other side. We'll go around and take these little 5.5 millimeter bolts out. We're going to do that all the way around, including on the heat shield along the back. Once we've got all our fasteners removed we can take our little covers from up in here, just pull them down out of the way. Once we've done that on both sides we can get ready to drop our exhaust down. In order to take our exhaust hangers off we're just going to spray a little bit of lubricant on there just to help it slide off a little bit easier.
What I'm going to use, is I'm going to take a pair of channel locks and with this end you put it on the very end of the hanger, and then the other end you put it on the bushing there. Just kind of push it through as far as you can with these. I've already gone ahead and done the other side. I'll pull this off and I'm using the strap to support the exhaust so it doesn't hang too low. There's 1 10 millimeter nut straight up there that we need to remove. Once that's down we'll be able to take this out of the way. Then we'll set this aside for reinstalling later. The pulls that we're going to by pulling our carriage bolts and spacers through are this one and this one. Our access hole is actually going to be right back here on the very back side of the frame rail. We'll have to run our fish wire up in there. I'm going to start at this hole because it's the furthest away. You're going to kind of be going by feel on this. Once you can feel it with your finger you can pull it through. You'll want to be sure to not let this end go up in there, so I'm going to bend that just a little bit just to kind of help grip it in case I pull a little bit too far. Then I can grab the carriage bolt and spacer, feed those into place. Screw that carriage bolt into the fish wire here. Then keeping a hold on this end you want to take this up in there. To hold this back in there, you want to feed the spacer through first. You can just gently pull. Once you've got that spacer through, in order to get the carriage bolt through and into place there. Carefully take this off making sure I don't push this back up inside the frame rail there. Next I can go for this hole. I'll get it pulled through there. Putting that spacer on first, then threading that carriage bolt in there. Then again starting by feeding the spacer through. On this fish wire I'm going to leave in place, then we'll repeat that on the other side. You want to grab an extra set of hands to put this up into place. You'll want to make sure to not push any of your bolts back up into the frame. Take one of the 1/2 inch flange nuts, get it started onto that 1/2 inch carriage bolt that you fish wired into place. Just tighten it up by hand in order to hold the hitch there and then you can get the rest of the flange nuts started. We'll take a 3/4 inch socket, get them tightened down. Once we've got them tightened down we'll be sure to go back and torque it until to what's specified in the instruction manual. In order for us to be able to put our under body paneling back into place we're going to need to do some trimming. In the instructions they give us some measurements in order to be able to do that so that we can re-secure that hole back on the stud. I've got the panel marked for where I'm going to cut. I'm just going to follow the lines there. Once I've got this cut out I should have enough clearance to be able to get the stud back through that hole. If I don't, I'll be able to just pull it out. If I need to trim a little bit more I can do that. I'm going to trim both sides the same way. Before we reinstall those corner under body panels we'll take our center under body fascia, and again we'll mark it as described in the instructions in order to cut it so that it'll fit and we can re-secure it as well. We'll do that to both sides of it. Then we'll be able to feed this back up into place. Once we get it up there and lined up, our 10 millimeter nuts and reinstall those on the ends. Then we'll reinstall the rest of our fasteners on this center under body panel. Let's put these little corner under body panels back up. With that tightened up I can reinstall the one on the other side too. With all our under body paneling reinstalled we can put our exhaust back up into place in the hangers. We can take our exhaust support strap back down and you're ready to hit the road. That's going to complete our look at the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver Class 2 Hitch, part number C12140 on our 2015 Ford Edge.
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