Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver with Standard Drawbar - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Video Transcript for Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Hyundai Elantra - Curt

Today, on our 2015 Hyundai Elantra, we're going to review and install the Curt Class 1 One and a Quarter Inch Receiver Tube Hitch, part number C11303. Here are a few tools that'll be necessary for installing the hitch. You need at least a Phillip's screwdriver, and maybe a flat head screwdriver, ten millimeter socket, a couple of drill bits, and a file bit along with the drill. Either a utility knife or a dremel. Then, you can either use a standard ratchet or a large inaudible 00:00:37 along with your torque wrench and a three quarter inch socket. An extension may be necessary.

Here, we also use some spray lubricant. Here's what a hitch would look like once installed. As you can see, we've got a nice, round cross tube, and a fully wall of construction with a nice black powder-coded finish. It really hides underneath the vehicle. Here, we have our class 1 one and quarter inch by one and a quarter inch receiver tube and pre-drilled half inch hole on both sides of the receiver tube.

The underneath side of the receiver tube is also our chain hold downs for securing our trailer. This hitch is capable of up to two hundred pounds of ton weight and two thousand pound tow capacity. Next, I'll give you a couple of measurements to assist you with selecting accessories for your new hitch. In the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is five inches. From of the top of the receiver to the inaudible 00:01:30 to the ground is ten and a half inches. This will assist you with selecting accessories such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier.

We'll now go ahead with the installation. To begin our install, we're going to start here on the passenger's side by lowering the exhaust. We need to remove the two rubber isolators. We got one here at the back on the outside of the muffler, and one on the inside of the muffler towards the front just behind the rear axle. To remove the rubber isolator from the middle hanger, we're going to spray each one with a spray lubricant and then use a pry bar priers to remove it from the middle hanger. Now, with the second rubber isolator removed, you can see our muffler's come down.

We don't have to worry about putting a safety strap or anything on it as its going to hit on the rear axle, but now exposes our frame and the heat shield that'll need to be removed next. To remove the heat shield, we've got a total of five ten millimeter nuts that'll need to be removed. One we have all the fasteners removed, we'll go ahead and pull the heat shield down and set it aside.Next, we're going to move over to the driver's side. Some models like this one have an under body panel that'll need to be removed. We'll go ahead and remove the multiple fasteners that secure it starting with the four ten millimeter nuts. Next, we'll remove the three push pin fasteners. These push pin fasteners are two piece with the center we'll screw out, and then we can remove the fastener completely. I'm just going to use a flat blade screwdriver to help pull this outer section, while I screw out the center portion. Once we have the fasteners removed, we can go ahead and pull the panel down and set it aside. With the panel removed here on the driver's side exposing the frame rail, we've got both frame rails exposed. We need to locate the rear rubber plug in each frame rail. This is the same on both sides. We'll go ahead and remove the plug on both sides now. Some models have a slightly different attachment point process, but for this application, it's a small pre-drilled hole, this hole need to be enlarged to a half-inch. Using a inaudible 00:04:16 process, we're going to start with a small bit and then open up to our final size of a half-inch. We'll have to do this to both sides. With our hole drilled out, we need to go ahead and install our hardware into the frame. Our hardware is going to be a half-inch carriage bolt along with a half inch baser block that'll go inside the frame and come down through our attachment point. Securing the hitch once it's in place, will be a half inch flange nut. As you can see, our access hole here isn't quite large enough to get our hardware into the frame. We'll need to open it up. We can do this by drilling a hole on each side and then filing it out using a large file to file out a section large enough to get our carriage bolt in or in this case, we're going to use a round file on a drill to open it up. Once you have it drilled out, we can go ahead and take our hardware and check to make sure we go in the frame nice and easily. Now, that we know our hardware got into the frame, we'll bring in our half inch bolt leader that's supplied with the install kit. Take the bolt leader, go in the attachment point and again just bring it out the access hole. We can slide on our block and thread on the carriage bolt. We'll feed the block and bolt into the frame separately. Once they're into the frame, we'll use the pull wire to pull them down into place creating our attachment point her on the driver's side. With the driver side carriage bolt in place, I'm going to move over to the passenger's side and repeat the same process. With my carriage bolt and block are in place here on the passenger's side, I'm just going to leave the pull wire attached as it will assist with getting my hitch up into place without pushing the hardware back up into the frame. Our third attachment point is going to be tow hook here. The tow hook will get a half inch carriage bolt and a larger spacer block. We'll put the carriage bolt into the spacer block and set it down through the tow hook creating our center attachment point so that it'll get secured with a half-inch flange nut. With all my hardware in place, we're ready to re-install the heat shield. The heat shield will go back on same way it came off. With our hardware and heat shield in place, we'll go ahead and put our hitch in position. We'll bring the passenger's side up, set it on the exhaust as I feed the pull wire through the attachment point of the hitch. It's going to be the forward attachment point for this application. We'll move over to the driver's side, feed our hitch onto the carriage bolt, and again, it's the forward attachment point. Go ahead and install our flange nut. As we install our hardware, we're just going to install it finger tight so that we have them all in place. With our driver's side flange not in place, move over to the passenger's side and repeat the same process. Then we can move to our center attachment point guiding the carriage bolt through the hitch and install our flange nut. Once we have all our hardware in place, we can go ahead and tighten it down. Once all our fasteners are tightened down, we can go ahead and torque the specifications as indicated in instructions. With all of our fasteners tightened down and torque to specifications, we can go ahead and re-install the exhaust. Although the instructions say that the panel does not have to be re-installed, it can be. We'll just need to trim it out going around the hitch. To do that, I'm going to use a paint marker to mark out the section. Then, use a rotary tool or utility knife to cut out the section necessary. We're going to come off the back corner here about two inches on an angle for about eight inches. We'll just draw a straight line from the back edge to that eight inch mark, which is approximately six inches. Cut out this section to go around the hitch. With our cutout made, we're going to go ahead and re-install the panel. With my cutout made, we did lose one attachment point, but we can still re-install the remaining fasteners, which will be the four nuts and two push pins. With our hitch installed, tightened and torque to specifications, we're ready to hit the road. That'll do it for the review and install of our Curt Class 1 One and a Quarter Inch Receiver Tube Hitch, part number C11303 on our 2015 Hyundai Elantra. .